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Old 12-21-2009, 02:22 PM
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Not much of a fuel ring there, that to me would be ragged edge, your timing mark is more then I usually see, but then again I'm not making enough heat to get one
Old 12-21-2009, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Not much of a fuel ring there, that to me would be ragged edge, your timing mark is more then I usually see, but then again I'm not making enough heat to get one
You have not seen enough to know what the ragged edge is if you think that is on the edge.

The timing mark is not bad but its about 1* more than we like to have.
If I remember right we pulled 1* of timing out and took a little more fuel out of that tune up.
Old 12-21-2009, 05:15 PM
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Thanks ATV! Thats what I'm looking for. That tells me what to look for to get me in the ballpark of where I need to be. Since I will be shooting a 300 shot where should I start with what size shot to see what the motor wants? 125? 150?

I am wanting to use a 2 stage Speedtech diffuser plate since I will be using a vic jr intake and edelbrock T/B and the reason is for simplicity. My question is should I use a direct port instead so I will be able to tune easier or will my distribution be ok with a vic jr intake with the plate?
Old 12-21-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
You have not seen enough to know what the ragged edge is if you think that is on the edge.

The timing mark is not bad but its about 1* more than we like to have.
If I remember right we pulled 1* of timing out and took a little more fuel out of that tune up.
If that's the case I've been so far on the safe side that I probably have a 1/3 of a second and 5 mph left in my car with no other changes other then the tuneup.


The fuel I run is different too.... not sure what change that would cause to the look of the plug.
Old 12-21-2009, 06:52 PM
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87, plate for 1 stage and DP for the 2nd, that way you can tune each cyl individually. That speedtech plate is badass, the 2 stage to me, is for like a 100 and 100 shot, or if you want to be able to just switch power levels by unplugging one and plugging in the other.

250 max thru a plate like that, that's always been the rule I've gone by/was taught and generally, we don't hurt alot of stuff. But, judging by that plug above which is pretty close, we're way cold on our heat, and seem to have a slightly different fuel mark
Old 12-21-2009, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
If that's the case I've been so far on the safe side that I probably have a 1/3 of a second and 5 mph left in my car with no other changes other then the tuneup.
....
Old 12-22-2009, 06:27 AM
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Scary isn't it. sometimes I don't know how the car has gone as fast as it has, at the weight it is.

3350, and if you saw the plugs, judging from what yours look like, you'd be screaming "WTF YOU ARE WAY TOO COLD AND TOO MUCH FUEL ARGH"

I can hear it now.

Just imagine what will happen now with the car down in the 30xx range, nevermind if I ever get the tuneup right Definitely need to get some fuel back out of it, take the timing put it back where it was (I had it most of 2008 at 17 degrees, after playing with the jets some and never getting any heat in the plug we put it to 21 and it just barely started to show heat, meaning it's way too heavy on fuel still) and just take 6 sizes away fron the fuel jet, and see what happens.

Either that, or get a super victor on the car, port it to match the heads and just put a diffuser plate on it, leave a 42 fuel jet in it and bump the nitrous jet up from the 65 to a 72 and start there
Old 12-22-2009, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Either that, or get a super victor on the car, port it to match the heads and just put a diffuser plate on it, leave a 42 fuel jet in it and bump the nitrous jet up from the 65 to a 72 and start there

This would be a good start.
See you know what you should do your just scared to do it.

Man up ***** !
Old 12-22-2009, 07:37 AM
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Just don't want to be melting **** down. I'll do it, but I'll use the ls1edit and pull the timing back based on RPM, leave it up at 22 until 4200 where the car gets to on the brake, then drop it back to about 10 degrees and start there. That should be low enough so it won't hurt anything
Old 12-22-2009, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6


Just don't want to be melting **** down. I'll do it, but I'll use the ls1edit and pull the timing back based on RPM, leave it up at 22 until 4200 where the car gets to on the brake, then drop it back to about 10 degrees and start there. That should be low enough so it won't hurt anything

We run 10* on a 350 shot.
Start at 14* and make 1/8th mile hits... my guess is you will end up at 16-17*
Old 12-22-2009, 07:57 AM
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**** I ran 17 with the single 65 jet
Old 12-22-2009, 12:08 PM
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you ran a 65 42, no wonder that thing is rich, we run 62 33 and it is still noticably rich. Our 72 was at 36 and still pretty rich. We will be around 15-16 degrees on a stock headed motor on a 72. #8s in it.
Old 12-22-2009, 01:28 PM
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I started with the nos jetting which was 63/44 That was heavy on fuel, went to a 43, got better, went to a 65, got better, went down to a 42, got better, then the season was over, never made it out again afterwards. I was aiming to get the car right first 1/2 of 08, once that was done I started playing around some.

had it at 17 degrees with a #9 plug and torco 118nos fuel all season too, I did put some timing in it the last time I ran the car, we bumped it up to 21, but it didn't do hardly anything, so at this point if I went back out without any changs I'd put it back to 17 and probably toss a 40 fuel jet in the car and see what that gets me, then maybe move up to a 67 nitrous jet and see where I'm at then.

The Nos 90mm plate is about maxed at that point though, so if I want to go much farther nitrous jet wise it will require a single plane/plate or a fogger. I probably can still take some more fuel away and see some more gains there though.

And think... car went 9.5x like clockwork set up like that @ 3350. How much is left in that

Alot.
Old 12-22-2009, 01:59 PM
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You went from 17* to 21* in 1 run ... Thats a HUGE change!!!
Dont think we would ever try that.

Get the plugs clean fuel wise before you start putting timing in.
Then as your puttin it in (1* at a time) put a little bit of fuel in as you add it.
Old 12-22-2009, 02:12 PM
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I did drop a heat range for the first run on the plug (went to a #10 for one run, that was a joke, things had absolutely no heat mark on them at all, NGK fwiw)

Normally I'd never make that much of a change either. But, with the way the car had been running, and being that I knew I was taking it apart after that race (still haven't gotten to that but did do a compression/leakdown and that was the same as it was) I wanted to just try it.

We've been ultra conservative with the car since it went together, probably the only reason it has never had a head off, in 2 and a half racing seasons.

If I had any of the plugs to take a pic of and show you, you'd have probably done the same thing.

I could have probably been running a #8 plug and 112 fuel with the 17 degrees and still been fine, I did try the #8 a couple times, didn't go any faster so I went back to the #9. I never tried the 112 fuel, but I think it still would have been safe.


You guys are telling me 17 deg is where I'll probably end up with a 82 jet, I think the 21 with a 65 was still on the overly safe side.

But it also sounds like I've been so heavy on the fuel, that I'd never get a good mark on the plug so maybe that timing is right but it's still too heavy to tell in the fuel dept.

Doesn't really matter at this point, it's gonna get a few changes before I run it again and at that point I'll start over and see where it gets me.

I get a single plane and a plate on it I'll put a 65 nitrous jet and whatever fuel jet the manf. reccommends in it for the first run and see what that gets me. I'll have a real pressure regulator on it too, so that way I know where the efi pressure really is, and I'll put a 2nd feed with a second regulator on for the plate so that will have it's own fuwl pressure that I can flow test as well to make sure it's right on. I'll have that to make adjustments with as well. I never had any issues with the pressure dropping, the racetronix and hotwire were able to keep a solid 60 psi @ wot all the way down the track, that was the one ga I used to look at right as I was going across the traps to see if it dropped at all, and it always stayed right at 60, and went up to about 65 at idle.




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