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Do these plugs look okay?

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by camscam02
Look up a few posts in this thread, you said "I will be switching a colder plug and trying it again", that is where you would be covering up a problem. By covering up meaning you weren't gonna check the motor out,tune out, your oil issues, you just wanted to put plugs in it and go and hope for the best.

Hope that makes better sense. You have an oil problem coming from somewhere, I would check that out before spraying it again, oil will kill it on the bottle very quickly.
I didn't mean that i was going to go out in the garage and swap the plugs right now and go run it. I was obviously going to the the basic compression and leak down test as well as a new PCV setup. I have a lot of work ahead of me until the car is drivable again. I will also be re-doing my entire fuel system. When the car is back together i will have gone over every inch of it.

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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nofxrxmxpx,

You need to listen to ATVracer and a few other's on here about nitrous setups. These guys are the fastest with nitrous and know what they are talking about! If I was posting the pics you have, I would definatly be looking for advice from the top guy's and these are the guy's!
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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ok cool, so what i gathered so far

TR6 is the wrong plug
I may or may not need pistons and/or piston rings

what plug do you guy's recommend for my setup, and why?

Last edited by nofxrxmxpx; Jan 13, 2010 at 03:38 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:38 PM
  #24  
Chris@NitroDaves
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I would do a leak down test first to see if there is a major problem. Other than that would definitely get a colder plug in there...I'd use the NGK BR7EF Stock #3346. Second like stated above you will need to check the tune and definitely check to see what the timing is at along with the AFR. I would also see if you can find some race gas to use for the next time 104, 106, or 110 octane would do real nice if you can find any of those.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #25  
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Chris,

Is that a non projected tip plug?
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #26  
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If it was mine I would do this ...

-Comp check, leak down (good chance it is not hurt, we have nipped plugs many times and not hurt the motor)
-clean intake and what ever oil you can from the intake runner on the heads.
-LS6 valley cover to a vented catch can
-breathers on the valve covers
-Have tuner pull 4* of timing out of the tune
-Use a Br7ef plug
-Post up what jets you have in the nitrous kit

No reason you HAVE to run race gas. Shiz been 9.0's on pump gas @ 3500lbs.
But you do HAVE to have a good bit of timing out, the correct plugs and Jetting.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #27  
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Thanks ATVRacr,

does the ls6 valley cover vent from the front or rear?

also, i am planning on running the GM bow tie valve covers or some similar aftermarket VC, should i drill them and put breathers on?
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by nofxrxmxpx
Chris,

Is that a non projected tip plug?
It is a non projected tip plug
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #29  
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Wow.... listen to atv...
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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no man....try autolite 104 r 103...from experance they work better
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by quews6lime
no man....try autolite 104 r 103...from experance they work better
Id love to hear the reasoning behind this? care to share?
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #32  
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oh GOD here it come's ... I would like to here this also
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by nofxrxmxpx
Thanks ATVRacr,

does the ls6 valley cover vent from the front or rear?

also, i am planning on running the GM bow tie valve covers or some similar aftermarket VC, should i drill them and put breathers on?

Best thing for nitrous is a vaccume pump.
If you cant get that then you need as much ventalation as you can get.

LS6 vents in front.


Autolites are not the best choice ... if you had burned the straps off of a set of autolites you would be buying a new motor ... NO DOUBT !
Stick with NGK's
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #34  
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u know whats funny i ran a tr6 and went 10.30's w/ pump gas... how come it worked for me...? at that time cartek h/c with their tune in it...

now im gonna run a br6ef up to a 150 shot then swap to a br7ef on the 2nd stage...
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 09:22 PM
  #35  
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hey Gov, were those 10.30's on the juice? what kind of power were you making, better yet what trap speed?
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by nofxrxmxpx
hey Gov, were those 10.30's on the juice? what kind of power were you making, better yet what trap speed?
yes on nitrous, that was back in 2002 or 2003 i think... power was 575 at the wheels w/ a TNT 100 shot... trap speed was 132 mph...it ran 106.79 in the 1/8th on that pass...

knowing what i know now im running a 3177 up to 125 anything after 125 ill run a br7ef.. even if a br7ef is too cold for that shot i dont care, i have efilive and can tune the car to run on the br7ef as a daily plug if needed
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:50 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TheGovernorZ06
yes on nitrous, that was back in 2002 or 2003 i think... power was 575 at the wheels w/ a TNT 100 shot... trap speed was 132 mph...it ran 106.79 in the 1/8th on that pass...

knowing what i know now im running a 3177 up to 125 anything after 125 ill run a br7ef.. even if a br7ef is too cold for that shot i dont care, i have efilive and can tune the car to run on the br7ef as a daily plug if needed
Posted this in another thread but it fits here also....

I ran a TR6 in my car years ago with 150 shot and more without hurting it.
Thing is I didnt know **** back then like most of you now. (Thats not an insult though most of you will take it that way) Now that I have been spraying my car and pushing it to the limit for a few years now I have learned what NOT to do by hurting parts. With that said and what I know now I would not spray my car with a TR6 in it.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by quews6lime
no man....try autolite 104 r 103...from experance they work better
Don't use the autolites... They are a "tougher" plug than the NGK's and are harder to burn the strap off of if your tune is off. That will allow them to be torches for longer, possibly causing more damage than the NGK's (they get nipped early if there are problems - ask me how I know ). The NGK's are also easier for me to read.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:39 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TheGovernorZ06
yes on nitrous, that was back in 2002 or 2003 i think... power was 575 at the wheels w/ a TNT 100 shot... trap speed was 132 mph...it ran 106.79 in the 1/8th on that pass...

knowing what i know now im running a 3177 up to 125 anything after 125 ill run a br7ef.. even if a br7ef is too cold for that shot i dont care, i have efilive and can tune the car to run on the br7ef as a daily plug if needed
Don't listen to us...
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #40  
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Autolite plugs are good once you have your tuneup figured out.. but to start on them is a bad BAD isdea.

I have in my trailer right now, 15 sets of NGK #10's and 10 sets of autolite ar 3934 (#10 heat range)

I'll start with the NGK's until I have things looking right, then I'll swap to the autolites. I find the autolite plug stays cleaner and you can make a bunch of runs on them before they need changing, but you can't read them for **** as far as the heat on the ground strap goes.... so tuning with them, is a really bad idea.
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