Newbie to Nitrous -- need help
Newbie to Nitrous -- need help I've searched and searched on these forums and still nothing is clicking 
I've talked to the people at the performance shop I use and they are 100% against using a Dry Kit claiming it's unsafe, easy to blow things up, etc etc. Use Wet.
But both nitrous and fuel going through my intake just doesn't feel any safter in my opinion.
So what should I use? Wet or Dry? And what all would I need to saftly be able to spray a 100hp shot without any problems?
I have a 99 T/A A4
All free mods are done
SLP Air Lid with K&N
SLP 85mm MAF
smooth bellows
Hooker cat-back
3.73 gears
TCI SUper Street fighter 3500 stall
B & M Tranny cooler
BMR lower control arms with relocation brackets
ASP Underdrive pulley
LS1 Edit + Dyno tuned
Help is greatly appreciated
I've talked to the people at the performance shop I use and they are 100% against using a Dry Kit claiming it's unsafe, easy to blow things up, etc etc. Use Wet.
But both nitrous and fuel going through my intake just doesn't feel any safter in my opinion.
So what should I use? Wet or Dry? And what all would I need to saftly be able to spray a 100hp shot without any problems?
I have a 99 T/A A4
All free mods are done
SLP Air Lid with K&N
SLP 85mm MAF
smooth bellows
Hooker cat-back
3.73 gears
TCI SUper Street fighter 3500 stall
B & M Tranny cooler
BMR lower control arms with relocation brackets
ASP Underdrive pulley
LS1 Edit + Dyno tuned
Help is greatly appreciated
This is the most common arguement on this subject.Everyone has there own opinion.You will here the following.Dry kits are unsafe because they trick the computer into adding extra fuel through the injectors by spraying before the maff.(What happens if your fuel injector fails?)Wet kits are unsafe because it adds its fuel with a fuel solinoid mixing the nitrous with the fuel in the nozzle.(What if the fuel solinoid Fails?)(What about the raw fuel in the intake?)
Pick what you like best and go for it. I will say this if you do your set up right.Use the safety features that are out there you will have no problem no matter what kit you use.Bad nitrous stories normally come from people that have never used it or shouldnt have been using it.Nitrous is a wonderfull thing.Take time out to learn about it.Dont take short cuts and use it the way it is attended and you will not have any problems.Good luck.
Dave
PS. By the way Im a NX wet Kit guy...LOL
Pick what you like best and go for it. I will say this if you do your set up right.Use the safety features that are out there you will have no problem no matter what kit you use.Bad nitrous stories normally come from people that have never used it or shouldnt have been using it.Nitrous is a wonderfull thing.Take time out to learn about it.Dont take short cuts and use it the way it is attended and you will not have any problems.Good luck.
Dave
PS. By the way Im a NX wet Kit guy...LOL
Thanks man!!
I'm leaning towards a wet kit though. I noticed they give more kick than the dry.
But this is what the shop has outlined for me.
10lb bottle kit for about $549
Auto bottle heater -- $209 (not required but suggested for best performance)
Fuel pressure gauge and auto safty switch $100
$20 NGK - TR-6's plugs
$250 to $350 basic install charge.
I might try to tackle the install myself with alittle help from a friend that's done this before to save on the labor charges.
Is that all I'll basically need to run it saftly? Just the regular 10lb kit, has all needed hardware to install. . . plus a fuel safty switch and that's it?
I'm leaning towards a wet kit though. I noticed they give more kick than the dry.
But this is what the shop has outlined for me.
10lb bottle kit for about $549
Auto bottle heater -- $209 (not required but suggested for best performance)
Fuel pressure gauge and auto safty switch $100
$20 NGK - TR-6's plugs
$250 to $350 basic install charge.
I might try to tackle the install myself with alittle help from a friend that's done this before to save on the labor charges.
Is that all I'll basically need to run it saftly? Just the regular 10lb kit, has all needed hardware to install. . . plus a fuel safty switch and that's it?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
I would not worry about the fuel pressure saftey switch. Too many people have had problems with them. Unless someone has found a reliable one, (anyone?????), pass on it. A window switch would also be a safe investment. Use the money you save from doing the install yourself and get one. Have it turn off about 100 RPM before your shiftpoint and it will extend the life of your tranny. $80 to $140 is a lot cheaper then a tranny rebuild. Also if it shifts late and touches your rev limiter you'll be less likely to hurt your engine.
