Hey guys, I'm new to nitrous, I have a 94 m6 LT1 car with a Nitrous Outlet plate and I'm going to spary a 150 - 175 shot. What accessories do I need to work flawlessly on an m6 car, window switch, controller etc?
BTW I have a fully forged built motor, stage 2 built T56 and an S60 rear so I'm not to worried about breaking anything.

 

well you have a s60 so with good tires I wouldnt lock out first. I would do a window switch and a controller to retard your timing once your nitrous noid gets its power. You can also look into a fuel pressure safety switch

 

Do you already have a ignition box on the car currently??

 

Here's my "dummy proof" setup:

-- NX MAF Wet Kit.
-- Tuning: Currently running a nitrous tune on the car so no need for a timing tuner, etc. Sacrafices a bit of N/A power however most of the time I really need all the power I can find I'm running spray.
-- FJO Mini Progressive Controller: WOT switch, window switch and progressive ramping. All computer controlled so simply push the pedal and the computer does the rest.
-- Gauges: Optional equipment however I want to know what things are reading to help spot any potential trouble spots. N20 Pressure, Fuel Pressure and Wideband O2.
-- Additional safety: Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (added security).

The kit works like a dream. Mounted in the spare tire well. Simply hit a button to open the bottle. Flip a switch to arm the system and hit the "go peddle".

 

I hear FPSS is a waste of money and more trouble then its worth.

 

Absolutly false; it saved my engine twice already..50$ instead of 10K$ is not too bad!!

And there a joke to install so why not?? An abosolute MUST IMO.

And dont forget the SPARK PLUGS!

Nitrous purge is a good idea too. I can tell theres some residu forming in there if no purge at all...

 

I agree on the nitrous tune; its more safe and less hassle for 5-15hp...

Dont forget the bottle heater, you cant go without it since you need that 1000psi to get the right hit.

I bought the 860 heated bottle mount and just installed it between the rear seats; nice looking, no need to buy that damn 200$ remote bottle opener!!

Dont forget your fuel pump kit; no fuel+N20=disaster!!! Thats where the FPSS came and saved the day!

Injectors are on the list if going dry setup. I dont like the idea since you need a PCM retune for new jets..not good for plp who dont tune their own car.

 

Man I just love the way that sentence is put together. That is piece of mind right there.

 

Why would you need a FPSS if your controller shuts it all down when if it goes lean?

 

because I have a LS1 timing tuner with no controller...product wasnt out at the time, or it was new but I didnt want to invest on a wideband kit$$$+controller for a small 150 shot.

 

I have a controller on my car, but many people and well known shops said to not buy one. Its not a money or install thing either, they just said i didnt need it when I was researching my set up. That was b4 I decided on the controller.

 

I put a fpss on all my installs. I have seen them save motors due to fuel system issues many times. Its all in setting the switch properly.. A lean cut out is for after its already lean.... HINT Lean cut out.. A fpss catches the issue as soon as fuel pressure drops..

A lean cut out is nice if being used properly. For all you guys that fall for the sales pitch and feel all fuzzy and warm with it hooked to the stock 02 sensor you just wasted your time and money.. Now wired to a 02 sensor I can see a bennifit in having it.. Myself I will never have one on my car. I just make sure my fuel system is prepared properly for the power and use a fpss properly adjusted. Then spend the money I saved on false insurance somewhere else.

To the original poster.

Being a LT1 I would check out the mallory 685. It will give you extra voltage for spark, window shitch, and the ability to pull timing.

I would get a bottle pressure gauge, bottle heater, purge, fpss, and to past tech a nhra fitting and blow down tube.

Make sure you have the right spark plug and fuel system.
Dave

 

Very well said Dave!!

About setting the switch, it comes pre-adjusted so I slapped it on right out the box to the fuel system and its all good! 5mins to do so for DIY..

I dont know why some plp would say its a waste of money; its probably the cheapest insurance in the nitrous market!

 

Thanks for all of the help guys I should have mentioned that I have the complete EFI Connections 24x ignition with 8 brand new LS2 coils, 42# injectors and Walbro 255lph @ 60psi fuel pump. I'm going to mount the bottle in the spare tire well with the remote bottle opener, thermo controlled bottle warmer, ashtray mounted control panel, FPSS and the micro edge controller. I was wondering about setting the controller for when I shift, I power shift my car (no lifting to shift) so should I set the controller to shut off nitrous about 200 rpm before I shift then come back on at 6xxx rpm? I hope to be shifting the car at 6800 - 7000 rpm, thanks again for all of your help.