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need help lifted head with plate

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #21  
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A Nitrous jet size of .085" or 2.159mm should produce:
326.29 HP with 1 port(s)
Actual HP to the wheels: 277.35 HP

Its WAY over timed and dead rich !

Q16 is also a NOT a good fuel for nitrous, use C16 or better.

200 shot is a 73 jet.

Who the hell starts tuning with an 85 jet? holy **** !
Regroup and start with 100 shot and work your way up.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by NXZ28
I have had this happen with ARP head studs and Cometic gaskets. Sprayed the motor at the track, it over heated on the way back to the pits. The plugs looked fine, and I ran it for awhile and it didn't over heat again. I knew it had lifted a head but I was in denial because of the work involved to fix it. Then I sprayed it again and the engine blew coolant out of the radiator. I pulled the head when I got back home and it had lifted the passenger side head gasket.
The tune is not correct if its lifting the heads.

We have sprayed over 500 shot on ARP head studs and cometics with no issues.

99% of the time like the OP most cars are overtimed and way rich.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
The tune is not correct if its lifting the heads.

We have sprayed over 500 shot on ARP head studs and cometics with no issues.

99% of the time like the OP most cars are overtimed and way rich.
This was in my rookie phase with spray. I was using the Ramchargers timing tuner and misread or misunderstood the instructions. I thought I was pulling -6 degrees at WOT, but instead I was pulling -2 degrees every 1000 rpm. The motor didn't like it too much.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NXZ28
This was in my rookie phase with spray. I was using the Ramchargers timing tuner and misread or misunderstood the instructions. I thought I was pulling -6 degrees at WOT, but instead I was pulling -2 degrees every 1000 rpm. The motor didn't like it too much.
Gotcha ... we have all learned alot of this stuff the hard way.

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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dnkynrbk
If it lifted the heads. Drain your oil. if you have water in there then it lifted. And if your plugs have green specs that look like crystals on the plug that is a sign its lifting to. I had that problem at LSX in memphis and Dave helped me@N20 outlet
i havent drained the oil yet but dipstick didnt apear milky or anything after. i didnt see any green specs or crystals on the plugs last nigh would they be fairly easy to see if present?

Originally Posted by ATVracr
A Nitrous jet size of .085" or 2.159mm should produce:
326.29 HP with 1 port(s)
Actual HP to the wheels: 277.35 HP

Its WAY over timed and dead rich !

Q16 is also a NOT a good fuel for nitrous, use C16 or better.

200 shot is a 73 jet.

Who the hell starts tuning with an 85 jet? holy **** !
Regroup and start with 100 shot and work your way up.
how do you figure that shot size? how do you figure a standard from one plate to another? i bought the plate brand new from edelbrock and it clearly says a 85 jet for a 200 shot, not saying its totaly correct but wont every plate vary nitrous express said theirs is a 82 jet for a 200 in this thread, and you say a 73. on the short hit in he vid comes on at 3k and lifted at 5500. it went from 520/450 na to like 667/756 so im sure the shot is larger but trying to figure out your standard. ill be doing the lead down test tonight to find out damage for sure and definatly starting smaller next time
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #26  
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Years of spraying.... I use http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm for reference and its pretty close.
Its just a number, doesnt really mean a whole lot and will give you a general idea of how much HP gain.
Spray as much as you need to go as fast as you want.

We have never found a leak down test to be helpful... we do a compression test on our motor and if it checks out we keep hitting it.

Colder plug, less timing, less fuel and C16 instead of Q16.
That will get you going in the right direction.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #27  
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What makes the c16 better than the q16. Not going max effort on this motor yet so just looking to keep the shot near a true 200
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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How fast are you trying to go? How fast is it now?

Q16 is a oxygenated fuel it is very hard to tune with nitrous.
We tried for 1/2 season and switched back to C16 .... C16 is easier to deal with and much better for nitrous. IMO.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:20 PM
  #29  
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It went 10.0 last year on i think it was a 24n direct port on my fast but ran out of gear. I switched to the Vic jr and 4barrel TB looking for more rpm and a bit more hp instead of changing the gear. Id like to see 9.60s or close on a similar shot to last years before I start throwing more nitrous at it in an attempt to keep a t56 together for more than 3 passes lol
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #30  
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No reason it wont go 9.60 or damn close on a 150 shot.
So stick with 63-65 nitrous jet and work on the tune up.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #31  
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leak down test .......................................compression test
........front .................................................f ront
driver........passenger........................... driver......... passenger
45%............45%................................ .170..............160
45%............34%................................ .170..............165
39%............61%................................ .185..............165
40%............36%................................ .180..............160

i also tried a coolant pressure test and at 13-14lbs it held fine but when i went to climb to 16-18lbs it showed a leaking radiator where the plastic end meets the metal. durring the leak down i never heard or saw any bubbles pushed into the radiator or anything. would you be concerned with the 61% on #6. im not totally sold that i couldnt of had some error in the reading.

also my rings are gapped at .028 top .030 2nd

do you guys think im hurt or ok?

Last edited by blue99fbody; Mar 9, 2011 at 11:24 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #32  
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Bump. Any opinions on the test results? Should I be tearing this top end off or do u think its unhurt? Can't get a radiator till tomorrow then ill pressure test the cooling system again
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #33  
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Looks like the passenger side is consistantly lower, maybe take that head off.
If there is damage I would pull both off, if passenger side is OK I wouldnt pull the other.

Or... roll the dice and spray it ! lol
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #34  
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Ok I may pull it off. May run a few more tests to try to find some solid evidence of a bad Hg. If bradenton wasn't in a week id just take my time and pull it apart but may roll the dice and run it down there, just running na in index anyway there.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #35  
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Do another comp test with the motor hot and check passenger side first.
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