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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #21  
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While we are talking about plug readings I just want to varify you are pulling the plugs after shuting the car down instantly after wide open throttle. No decale in gear, part throttle or idle time?
Dave
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #22  
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I doubt its a lean spike issue causing this and if it is, its not due to length of lines etc. More so in pump volume or some fuel delivery issue. Sounds more electrical to me though.

and if you did want to compare narrow band (which really isnt useful) mine drops for 3 frames and doesnt do that and we dont worry about it at all
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
I doubt its a lean spike issue causing this and if it is, its not due to length of lines etc. More so in pump volume or some fuel delivery issue. Sounds more electrical to me though.

and if you did want to compare narrow band (which really isnt useful) mine drops for 3 frames and doesnt do that and we dont worry about it at all
I dont think its electrical because he said it recovers and he runs it the rest of the way down the track.

I am leaning more towards a fueling issue as well concidering how hard the car noses over. Its not poping out the exhaust which means its not a to rich issue. And odds are since we dont see this its probably not blowing out the spark but I still want the plug gap opened up just a maybe.......

Dave
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Open up the gap on those plugs to about 34. That gap is to tight for your combo. (Could or could not be an issue)

We need to varify fuel pressure. Even it its a temporary test gauge. We need to find the issue and fix it before you hurt something.

First we need to determain is it a lean issue or a lean spike. While we are problem solving go ahead and put another two pill sizes bigger on the fuel side.

Go out somewhere you can just briefly hit the car and watch a gauge.

If the gauge stays solid and the wideband log shows a lean spike that then richens up you need to shorten the hose from the fuel solenoid to the plate.

Fix the plugs gap before doing anything.
Dave
I have an Autometer fuel pressure gauge mounted in the car. I'm going to find a way to log it through HPT MVPI.

Originally Posted by ryarbrough
Middle of the bend is ok, but leaning towards aggressive for a stockish setup... you aren't going to lose enough power to make a difference by taking a degree or two out.... I still don't think that's the problem though...
I'll back off timing and try it out. Couldn't hurt.

Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
While we are talking about plug readings I just want to varify you are pulling the plugs after shuting the car down instantly after wide open throttle. No decale in gear, part throttle or idle time?
Dave
Pulling them back in the pits. Nowhere to do it at the top end of this track. I'm going to try to test Tuesday at a different track.

Originally Posted by camscam02
I doubt its a lean spike issue causing this and if it is, its not due to length of lines etc. More so in pump volume or some fuel delivery issue. Sounds more electrical to me though.

and if you did want to compare narrow band (which really isnt useful) mine drops for 3 frames and doesnt do that and we dont worry about it at all
The drop occurs across 2 frames, but it was down for more than that. Just saying it's data, not the bible. If it dropped and recovered in 2 frames, we wouldn't be having this discussion because the loss of power would be near imperceptible versus what actually happened.

Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I dont think its electrical because he said it recovers and he runs it the rest of the way down the track.

I am leaning more towards a fueling issue as well concidering how hard the car noses over. Its not poping out the exhaust which means its not a to rich issue. And odds are since we dont see this its probably not blowing out the spark but I still want the plug gap opened up just a maybe.......

Dave
I'm with ya Dave. I'm thinking fueling. I don't think it could be electrical since I'm not really placing any more demand on that system than I am N/A. And I've got to say, I've got the car pretty well sorted N/A where it runs 11.70-11.80 all day.

Alternatively, I still have a NX 85mm MAF kit sitting in my garage. The lines don't get any shorter than that since the solenoids are mounted to the housing. I guess I'll bring that with to test as well to eliminate the line issue.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #25  
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I am 99% sure the timing or the 1000 psi bottle is the problem, I just know they are wrong and dont want the guy hurting his car while he is trying to fix the actual problem because of to much timing and using narrow band o2's.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 11:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by minytrker
I am 99% sure the timing or the 1000 psi bottle is the problem, I just know they are wrong and dont want the guy hurting his car while he is trying to fix the actual problem because of to much timing and using narrow band o2's.
The pressure gauge should read 900-1000 psi at operating temperature/pressure.

That quote is directly from the NOS 5168 owner's manual. It's not bottle pressure. If the pressure had been 1200psi, I'd be inclined to agree with you.

Narrowbands are just data. I feel like a broken record saying that over and over. I did not have my wideband with me this trip. All they did was provide a recording of the event. Purely there for reference.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #27  
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Pulling the plugs back after driving it to the pits washes away all the wide open throttle data. Waste of time to even pull the plugs.

If you have afuel pressure gauge in the car just go out and make a short hit and see if the gauge drops back hard when the system hits.

Change the gap on those plugs....

If your solenoids are mounted on the bell housing how long are the hoses? If over two feet yu may be getting a huge lean spike because the nitrous is getting there way sooner. 1000 psi vs 55 psi..

Dave
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 11:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
The pressure gauge should read 900-1000 psi at operating temperature/pressure.

That quote is directly from the NOS 5168 owner's manual. It's not bottle pressure. If the pressure had been 1200psi, I'd be inclined to agree with you.

Narrowbands are just data. I feel like a broken record saying that over and over. I did not have my wideband with me this trip. All they did was provide a recording of the event. Purely there for reference.
That is your bottle pressure, what is the gauge reading? The higher your bottle pressure the harder it will be to maintain it for the pass. Can you tune your car for a 1,000 psi, yes, I dont recommend it, no need, it wont make you faster. 900-950 will give you a more consistent pass because it will have less pressure drop and is easier on your solenoids. The higher bottle pressure is just making it get more nitrous faster not helping your current problem.

I understand your WB was at home but logging your stock O2 sensors don't help. They are worthless data....thats the point I was making. At WOT as soon as you go into PE mode stock O2 sensors are 100% worthless and your just guessing.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:47 AM
  #29  
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Motor purge in the pits ? Why not during burnout ?
The nitrous most likely went to vapor from waiting so long and when you hit the button you got a big shot of gas and next to no nitrous.
Try purging in burnout box or after burnout before staging and try it again.
Looks like after it got the liquid nitrous it ran like a raped ape.

Maybe even try on a deserted back road (just launching)
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Wish I could log fuel pressure through HPT..

there is a way to do it.....
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