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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #21  
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I was having a bunch of problems this past week with the kit including "The Interface" not getting power at all times and my nitrous Solenoid acting up. I changed all the plugs out and gapped them at 32 and took it for a spin. The plugs had less than 5 min drive time on them before I sprayed it. Shity cell phone pic but the plug looks a lot cleaner inside and out.. Shitty cell pic below. Going to rebuild both my noids as the N2O has been acting up for a couple weeks.

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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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Still rich
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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Graham@NitrousOutlet
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The plugs had less than 5 min drive time on them before I sprayed it.

They need to have NO drive time on them. Literally, the car stopped, put the new plugs in, burnout, pass, shutdown.

Think of it like this.

The spark plug is piece of paper. Were trying to get the motor to print us a picture on the plug so we can see inside. Well when you drive on the plug, it already has the picture of whats going on at part throttle and idle. So when you go wot, its like printing a picture out on top of another. All you will get is a mess.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Still rich
Agreed and if I'm looking at the picture right too much timing.

OP - Cut that plug and you will see what were talking about. Reference your pic to the one I posted...
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:54 AM
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Rich and 2-3 degrees more than id have until the fuel is closer. drive time before is not as bad as drive time after the wot pull. also if those are short pulls its way to much timming for a 1/4 mile run . on a longer run it will clean some fuel off but burn that mark more. also some times timming marks can be a little false. if you leave on to much timmming it gets it hot fast and it never cools only gets hotter even if you then pull the timming back. so you have to be carefull with the timming down low to get threw the convertor flash or to tame boggs in a stick car.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 08:13 AM
  #26  
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Guys. Thank you for your help and guidence with this. I've order a .40 fuel jet and will try that. I also have a .38 if I need to go further. As of now, i'm pulling 8 degrees with the "200 Shot". It sounds like I should only pull 6 looking at the plug? These 7 year old NOS Cheater noids have never been rebuilt so I figure it's about time. Im waiting for my Fuel and N20 rebuild kits and should have it all back together by the week and will make another pass.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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the nos cheater is probably only giving 175. lol. get a larger more reliable noid in there it will help with the tune also. will lean it out some.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 09:23 AM
  #28  
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Why not just buy some new noids that can handle that shot consistantly instead of something old hurting a motor.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #29  
Graham@NitrousOutlet
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Originally Posted by lower_the_dynamite
Guys. Thank you for your help and guidence with this. I've order a .40 fuel jet and will try that. I also have a .38 if I need to go further. As of now, i'm pulling 8 degrees with the "200 Shot". It sounds like I should only pull 6 looking at the plug? These 7 year old NOS Cheater noids have never been rebuilt so I figure it's about time. Im waiting for my Fuel and N20 rebuild kits and should have it all back together by the week and will make another pass.
I would pull 11* as a starting point. Considering how much that plug looks like it is going to need to be leaned out and the length of pull I think 6* will cost you a piston.

I would definitely not make another pass on questionable solenoids.

Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
the nos cheater is probably only giving 175. lol. get a larger more reliable noid in there it will help with the tune also. will lean it out some.
I agree.

Originally Posted by TA1364
Why not just buy some new noids that can handle that shot consistantly instead of something old hurting a motor.
Agree as well.
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