cars been 10.90's NA looking to bang out some easy mid-low 9 sec passes.. car weighs in at 2750 no driver

details on motor are..

LS6 block stock bore x stroke
eagle rods/ARP2000 bolts
main studs
billet main caps
head studs
mahle nitrous pistons 11:5:1
champion ported 243's
Trex cam Hyd roller
MLS head gaskets
ported LS6 intake with 85mm tb.
4k nitrous 8" circle D
TH400

sooo... which kit is the best/safest out there as far as complete and ready to go. what is this "black box" i read so i can have NA tune and Nitrous tune.Or some sketchy sounding resistor mod i read about? i want to spray 250-300hp shot to get it over 800hp total. i just need a good reliable kit suggestions and tips on plugs,nozzle vs. Plate kits or DP?

Also fuel choices are pump or E85 or i can run pump gas and run standalone for Race fuel for the spray. or???

I have a A1000 pump, 10a up-8a back

 

Contact dave or chris at Nitrous Outlet. They will work out all the details for you and support you after the sale.

 

There are many different ways to go on this. To be honest with you the sucess of what ever system you want to go with is going to be highly dependent on your tuning ability.

What compression is your motor and what is the ring gap?

For 250 -300 hp a directport would be the best way to go. However as Carter01 is living proof that our plate systems can support this power level just as well. But this much through the front of the intake really relys on reading plugs and letting the engine tell you what it needs.

Dave

 

10.70 all motor

Hope you get a good setup and have good luck with the car. I know she was always good to me.

 

lol 10.70's my bad lol

i do not know ring gap. i do know they are hell fire rings and motor was set up to be used for nitrous...i do believe it is 11:5:1 but if theres a sure fire way to calculate the exact compression of a engine with out disassembly id like to know how. At one time had a stand alone nozzle kit on it. some idiot ..ugh hmm (zapp109) sold the kit off the car before i got my hands on it haha

I am not totaly against direct port.. i would love to make a plate kit work as the cost is much cheaper. after this winter/spring car is absolutely going turbo i just want to see how fast the car will go on the bottle. if i sink a grand in the nitrous kit i am ok with that.. but thats about as much as i want to go. id love to source some of the more expensive parts used if possible i just need a good idea on parts.. i.e. what solenoids, controllers, timing retard moduals etc..

as far as the tune up jeremy formoto (spelling) comes down this way a few times a year and id probably have him dyno tune it.. if not theres a few reputable shops around here id trust tuning my junk on the spray.

 

slap a plate on it and call it day then upgrade to the foggr when your familiar and comfortable with n20

 

First off.. I am not saying any of this to be a Dick, so please dont be offended, but many people have made some poor choices and it has cost them a lot of money.

For somebody asking questions like this, I do not recommend starting at a 250 or 300 on a plate...
all you are going to do is destroy a new motor.

I highly recommend you start with a 100 or a 150 shot and get a better understanding of how things work first and learn how to read plugs if you dont already know what to look at.


at the level of 250+, you really need to go Direct Port, and you need a good timing controller.
yes, you can go with a plate, but at that amount of spray, you really have to pay attention to distribution, and an ls6/85mm will not be ideal

The bigger you go, the more important it is that you read the plugs more often and really keep an eye on your system.

wet or dry is not really all that crucial, both work, but if you have a stock pcm, go with a wet kit as theres no reliable way to add extra fuel for nitrous only on a dry kit on a stock pcm.
a "Black Box" pcm is something like what Frost Offers.. 2 tunes programmed, flip a switch to turn on your nitrous tune..its probably the best option if you are still using the stock PCM.

a stand alone fuel system is good, but you need to have a fuel pressure safety switch to make sure that if the pump fails, you dont blow up your motor..mid 9's feels good until you have to buy a new motor


simple safety pieces are extremely important...
Fuel pressure safety switch
Lean/Rich Cutoff Switch (and rich will kill a motor faster than lean)
Nitrous Pressure Gauge


Race gas would be good, but not necessary if you tune it properly for pump gas.
you can do just about any fuel you want..
a lot of guys put some e85 or some c16 in their stand alone tanks for a wet kit.

if traction becomes an issue when spraying a 250+ shot, you might also consider buying a progressive controller and easing in the power instead of just hitting it all at once.

as you see.. lots of options, which all raise lots of questions as well.