Two technical questions, experts needed.
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Lincoln Nebraska
Two technical questions, experts needed. First: How much heat can a steel braided main NOS line take. I had the main line running about 2 inches from the muffler and I had wire loom around it, the loom is was pretty melted. Could I have damaged the inter-rubber portion of the steel line?
Second: How do you start rebuilding solenoids? That is the only thing I haven't done to my kit since mine poor dyno numbers. I have the 5177 kit. All responses are welcome.
Thanks again folks.
Zman <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />
[ December 03, 2001: Message edited by: BlackWS6LS1 ]</p>
Second: How do you start rebuilding solenoids? That is the only thing I haven't done to my kit since mine poor dyno numbers. I have the 5177 kit. All responses are welcome.
Thanks again folks.
Zman <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />
[ December 03, 2001: Message edited by: BlackWS6LS1 ]</p>
Re: Two technical questions, experts needed. 1. I don't think your line will be hurt. It might be, but I have had to run some of my lines close to the exhaust and I've never had any problems. I don't reccomend running it so close though.
2.The solenoids are a little tricky to rebuild, but not too bad. First make sure there is no pressure on your line. I reccomend taking the solenoid off the car. Then, unscrew the retaining nut from top of solenoid. Remove the solenoid coil. Place the nut over the solenoid stem and engage the drive dowels in the holes in the top of the stem. Remove the stem by turning the nut counter clockwise. Do not grip on the stem. Remove the plunger and spring. Examine the seat for damage. If there are any cuts, or any evidence of missing plunger material, replace plunger, spring, and base seal. Hope you have fun.Your solenoids will need rebuild kit #16021.
2.The solenoids are a little tricky to rebuild, but not too bad. First make sure there is no pressure on your line. I reccomend taking the solenoid off the car. Then, unscrew the retaining nut from top of solenoid. Remove the solenoid coil. Place the nut over the solenoid stem and engage the drive dowels in the holes in the top of the stem. Remove the stem by turning the nut counter clockwise. Do not grip on the stem. Remove the plunger and spring. Examine the seat for damage. If there are any cuts, or any evidence of missing plunger material, replace plunger, spring, and base seal. Hope you have fun.Your solenoids will need rebuild kit #16021.
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From: Iowa :-/~
Re: Two technical questions, experts needed. Just remember that you really want to have COLD nitrous come into your intake. BUT... if you want to have a softer hit off the line don't purge the line. The nitrous will not have as hard of hit when it comes on. This can be used to your advantage if you still have a smaller rear and your car is making some real horse power. If you want to gain as much advantage from your nitrous you will want to purge your line when you get up to the staging lanes. This will get rid of the liquid nitrous and have gaseous nitrous waiting to inter the intake as soon as it hit at WOT. If you are heating up the nitrous lines way back there you will have to purge more nitrous at the staging lanes to get to the gas. Just a thought.
