mrdragster1970

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Air doesn't weigh anything, and everyone should weigh the bottle before paying for the fill.
Also, if the bottle is under filled, it does not lean out the tune up, it goes fat.

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74novacustom

This is true i should have been checking the bottle weight!!! This time we had 4 bottles in my friends freezer and his wife went down and filled them.
After my first run on the 225shot it started to steam and the hit was like hitting the rev limiter. I opened the valve in the pits and it was all air!

Lean or fat, you are most likely right.

All i know my car was knows as the Steam Train after that!

mrdragster1970

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In my book all info is good info. So I always weigh my bottles after each run.
I know some guys will say why when you can only use once??
I like to know if something is changing.
If you slowed down a little, and the bottle weighed more then it should then you know to check the delivery system.
Maybe one of the noids is getting weak?? A wire is coming loose??
Then with the computer info, you can trouble shoot quicker.
I had my WOT switch bend this year and it slowed down 2 pass' in a row.
After checking the weight of the bottle, and the computer I knew the noids were fluttering and not an engine issue.

Knowledge is your friend, record all info, mild or wild combinations alike!!

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88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

Got the other side down. Somehow.
The plugs go from 8 to 2 in order

also finished up the lleakdown
dry-wet
2: 160-175
4: 150-185
6: 170-190
8: 160-200
these side was not as accurate. Didnt get to double check #8 as we did #5 since it went up to 220 then down to 185 after I redid it

mrdragster1970

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I'm missing something, leak down only goes to 100??

Which would be very very bad!!


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88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

Yea I "thought" it was a leakdown tester but it is a compression tester.
Shouldn't matter too much though, right?
I heard the #s should be 10% to 15-20% in difference? If someone could verify and also give me an opinion it would be greatly appreciated.

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

Anyone? Id really like to know how my numbers look if you can read them since their coming from a compression tester instead? If things look good im going to start looking into the head gaskets/valve seals

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

well today I saw it again. It was a gordous day and I tried to encourage it but its white smoke for sure. A nice long trail of noticable white smoke that trailed me, kinda like how it follows you after a burnout. No hint of blue. So im going look into maybe some valve seals and a headgasket set.

Mmicheletty

Nitrous+wrong plugs+no timing pulled+hard driving=rebuild. Rule of thumb is pull 2 degrees for every 50 shot of spray. Also for safety you need to run a colder plug like was said. Some say even a non-protruded tip. Sounds like you need a solid rebuild and then do the nitrous the right way.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I hate to be so blunt but after reading your post from the beginning to end your on your way to a blown engine. Odds are you already lifted a head and nipped a head gasket.

When are you seeing the smoke? Idle, wot N/A, or wot nitrous?

Obviosly you now know the spark plugs you were using was wrong.
What was your air fuel?
Is your pcm N/A tune stock?

Dave

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

Sorry didnt know this thread came back up. And smoke is AFTER wot when it revs back down. And since the nicer weather here it doesnt smoke at idle anymore when warm (at least to what i notice). And i also havent noticed the smoke as much lately either. Ill go for a spirted run today and report back. And the pcm is on a stock tune. Nos also hasnt been used in a good 2 months id also like to mention
However if i end up driving this to the ground then im going to look into a lq4/9.