Timing retard??
01-24-2002, 06:39 AM
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Timing retard?? OK, I have three questions:
1. Would I benefit from retarding the timing with a 100 shot dry kit??
2. If so, has anyone come up with a way of using a variable speed resistor, (potentiometer) or a fixed resistor to retard the timing from the driver's seat?
3. If that is possible, does anyone know the resistance values to get the proper timing advance or retard? This would be benificial when running on motor and on the bottle.
Any information greatly appreciated.
Kevin
1. Would I benefit from retarding the timing with a 100 shot dry kit??
2. If so, has anyone come up with a way of using a variable speed resistor, (potentiometer) or a fixed resistor to retard the timing from the driver's seat?
3. If that is possible, does anyone know the resistance values to get the proper timing advance or retard? This would be benificial when running on motor and on the bottle.
Any information greatly appreciated.
Kevin
01-25-2002, 09:56 AM
#3
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Re: Timing retard?? For a 100 shot? Nah, I don't think so. Detonation isn't a problem with a small shot so long as everything is working properly (i.e. proper mixture, plugs, ect...)
2. Sounds doable.
3. I can only tell you what temperature a given resistor will have the IAT sensor reading.
2. Sounds doable.
3. I can only tell you what temperature a given resistor will have the IAT sensor reading.
01-25-2002, 03:02 PM
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Re: Timing retard?? Thanks Colonel, I was hoping to get a someone with some serious knowledge on this. By the way, I want to thank you for the Tech files. Your information was very helpful in the decisions I made with my nitrous system.
Kevin
Kevin
01-26-2002, 03:36 AM
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Re: Timing retard?? Silver Slayer: i posted this info here back on Jan 4th. here it is again:
in order to remove timing, you can 'trick' your computer by changing the resistance value of your IAT sensor to make the intake air seem warmer than it really is.
here's some approx values during normal operation:
5.2k~92F
5.1k~85F
5.0k~78F
4.9k~71F and so on.
for every 100ohms you move 7 degrees. so, if you want to make the air charge seem warmer, add resistance in series with the circuit. a 1k (1000) ohm resistor added will add 70F to actual reading. this will pull out ~4 degrees timing. if you ever decide you want to add timing (if your Autotap or Ease Scan tells you your shy on timing) you'd have to use Ohms law to add resistance in parallel to lower the overall resistance:
R1*R2/(R1+R2)
so, if you want the IAT to be 4.8k but it is at 5.1k, we'd need to add a 81.6k resistor in parallel.
remember, we make the most power when we run as lean as possible with as much timing as possible without going into detonation. this is where the maxim 'lean and mean' comes from. but because we want to err on the side of safety for the sake of our motors, we sacrifice some power by ensuring a little rich and little less timing to avoid knock. hope this helps. oh, almost forgot, a 1/4 watt should be fine in this circuit.
you do not want to remove timing unless you have to. do you have Autotap or ScanEase so that you can scan your car while driving? if not, get it. this will tell you if you're flirting with knock or not. with only a 100 shot, you should be fine.
in order to remove timing, you can 'trick' your computer by changing the resistance value of your IAT sensor to make the intake air seem warmer than it really is.
here's some approx values during normal operation:
5.2k~92F
5.1k~85F
5.0k~78F
4.9k~71F and so on.
for every 100ohms you move 7 degrees. so, if you want to make the air charge seem warmer, add resistance in series with the circuit. a 1k (1000) ohm resistor added will add 70F to actual reading. this will pull out ~4 degrees timing. if you ever decide you want to add timing (if your Autotap or Ease Scan tells you your shy on timing) you'd have to use Ohms law to add resistance in parallel to lower the overall resistance:
R1*R2/(R1+R2)
so, if you want the IAT to be 4.8k but it is at 5.1k, we'd need to add a 81.6k resistor in parallel.
remember, we make the most power when we run as lean as possible with as much timing as possible without going into detonation. this is where the maxim 'lean and mean' comes from. but because we want to err on the side of safety for the sake of our motors, we sacrifice some power by ensuring a little rich and little less timing to avoid knock. hope this helps. oh, almost forgot, a 1/4 watt should be fine in this circuit.
you do not want to remove timing unless you have to. do you have Autotap or ScanEase so that you can scan your car while driving? if not, get it. this will tell you if you're flirting with knock or not. with only a 100 shot, you should be fine.
