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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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Default This is probably a stupid ?...but

To make a long story short when my car was cam gear bolt-ons tune I gained 95rwhp and 116rwtq on a 100 dry shot. Recently I added PRC 2.5 5.3 heads and on the same 100 dry shot I only gained 75rwhp and 84rwtq.

I have another thread started with more details so I will skip all that. But a friend of mine who "I think" is fairly knowledgeable about cars in general said "the reason I picked up less hp and tq is because I made the engine as a whole more efficient when I swapped the stock heads out." he said a less efficient makes more power than a more efficient engine on the same size shot.

Basically i there any truth theory or fact behind that reasoning. Thanks for your input.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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cam and heads probly don't match very well.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 12:58 PM
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From what ive seen its the exact opposite. Usually H/C cars with full bolt ons pick up excellent power from nitrous. Sometimes more then what they are advertised to push out. As we discussed in the other thread kinda hard to pinpoint the problem. I hope your able to figure it out either way. Its not a stupid question because if you dont know something it never hurts to ask.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 01:19 PM
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The cam is a 224R and heads are PRC 2.5 5.3 61cc. N/A I gained 38rwhp and 30rwtq...I think that its fantastic on motor. I'm gonna pretty much redo all the wiring and solenoid check the nozzle orientation and go from there. My car seems to be an oddball as far as hp gains from mods A/F ratio it likes etc. maybe this is just one more instance of that.
My butt dyno sure is happy though.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBirdLS1
The cam is a 224R and heads are PRC 2.5 5.3 61cc. N/A I gained 38rwhp and 30rwtq...I think that its fantastic on motor. I'm gonna pretty much redo all the wiring and solenoid check the nozzle orientation and go from there. My car seems to be an oddball as far as hp gains from mods A/F ratio it likes etc. maybe this is just one more instance of that.
My butt dyno sure is happy though.
Just go over everything like you stated. When i was on the dry system atleast for me as i stated in the other thread the orientation made a HUGE difference. Once i got it exactly where it needed to be distance and angle that thing took off, mainly the angle how it was pointed to the maf. Not saying it is the orientation but doesnt hurt to double check everything either way.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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Yeah I'm thinking that when shop took all the stuff off for the head swap the orientation of the nozzle changed. I had lines marked on the lid and nozzle to tell me when it was facing the maf. I looked yesterday and those lines and they weren't lined up at all. I knew distance/orientation mattered but I didn't know it mattered this much.
Thanks guys for your help I think I'm on the right track.

P.S. suppose the orientation was the problem and I fix it will I need the tune to be looked at again?
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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ya no problem man, hopefully it is just that and makes things easier for you to fix. If your tune was not changed from before then no. Once its oriented right and you have the tune from before just like the way it was when it was working properly you'll be fine the MAF will read the nitrous and re adjust for A/F. My tune on dry system was mostly for timing the MAF once it fogs up nice and shoots in the right orientation did just fine by the MAF adding the fuel. Im not a wiz as far as how it works exactly but my tuner told me the A/F will be fine once it fogs up and the orientation is right. So i followed it and all of the sudden the A/F was good and the hit was impressive on the 125dry.

Last edited by karpetcm; Apr 18, 2012 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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It was tuned before for the cam bolt-ons and 100 shot w/ assumed correct nozzle orientation.
Now its tuned for heads cam bolt-ons and 100 shot w/ supposed incorrect orientation.
I do remember that the first nitrous tune it got my tuner did move the nozzle farther away from the MAF and it got a waaayyy more constant A/F reading. My tuner has the commanded A/F set so the MAF will keep that at regulated. Looks like all I need to do is adjust orientation and then spray away...lol Thanks Man I feel alot better about it now.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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no problem, goodluck with it.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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Looks like karpetcm hit it right on the head. I got home from work went and looked at the nozzle orientation. It was pointed directly at the air filter not at the MAF like before.

I'm pretty sure that has fixed the problem, I'm guessing that some of the spray was getting "trapped" in the filter is the best way I can describe it.
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