Wel my nitrous system all of a sudden wont work, I have a 2002 C5 I installed a fast intake and had to unhook the grounds on both the fuel and n20 solenoids, but that's it put everything back as it was before. I have a Nitrous Outlet duel stage window switch and disused it over the phone with one of the techs and it doesn't seem there is a problem with that everything on the window switch is working properly. The only thing I can think right now is the relay popped that sends the signal to the solenoids??? My purge works fine though. I did do one thing that I think could of pope the relay I had the switches out and when I put them back in I hit the arming switch while the grounds were off the solenoids. I think this is my problem and I was thinking just get a new relay for the front. But my question is now can the relay just stop working to make the solenoids hit or would the window switch be off too if it was bad?

 

Can you hear the relays click when you arm everything , they should be audible. Do you have any fuses to check?

 

I didnt know you could hear the relays, what kind of sound should it make and will it do it when I just have the key on and hit the arming switch?

 

Just a light audible click , depending on the relays.

 

I have a nx kit

 

I just checked the relays like you said, and the front one does not click when you hit the activation switch, but the back one with the heater on it does click like you said when you hit the heater switch. So I am thinking I did in fact blow the relay the window switch turns on works perfect all settings are good to go but no solenoid activation.

I just ordered a new relay -thanks for the help

 

Yea check your relays if you have a wet kit I would disconnect the fuel source and put the schrader valve back in so your not shooting fuel either turn the window off or set it low start the car up making sure the nitrous bottle is off and have a buddy rev and hold a little past what ever the window switch is while you manually push the wot switch and you wil deff hear the solinoids click. Have you check with multi a meter the power to your relay with the kit armed? I'm pretty sure if you have power to the relay that's in line with solinoids then it's your relay. My nos kit has the standard relay that comes with the kit and is suppose to runs right off the battery with an in line fuse. The relay takes in the power wire from the battery, 2 solinoid power wires and the wot switch. I don't know how your kit is set up, but it sounds like a messed up relay though. Sorry if I'm confusing you lol

 

my wot throttle switch is on the tps for my C5 since its drive by wire so I cant hit it manually but, neither solenoid is firing I took it out and armed it went down the road and no difference what so ever so its not spraying fuel either, like I said the relay for the solenoids is not clicking on like it should I think I blew it out when I hit the arming switch while the solenoids were not grounded or it could of been while hooking the battery back up, I dont see a fuse on the power from the battery to the relay either.

 

FWIW the relay that goes to your solenoids would not make a clicking nose until the window switch activates it. the arming switch would no activate the relay unless the car was also at WOT and between your set window. (or however you have yours setup)

 

You need to check the wiring going to the relay and make sure you have the proper voltages where you need them. Its kinda hard to knock a relay out. You will need a good volt meter or a test light.

 

Dam! this blows Idk what the hell is wrong with it, everything was good the other day when I tested it and I have had it hooked up for about 2 years now has worked every time I had the battery disconnected working on the intake manifold and the grounds off on the solenoids but thats it. Idk what it is the window switch is reading the rpm and tps signal.


If I probe the signal wire from the window switch will it show that its hot or only when Its a wide open throttle and over my activation rpm? thats the problem with diagnosing this is I dont have a manual wide open throttle switch its off the tps so I have to have the car running and rev it to test anything.

 

like said earlier, if your window switch is reading correctly, check all the wires between your window switch and your noids with a multimeter. not difficult, just a few wires to check. also, check to make sure the window switch is set up right as well.

 

i had that same issue testing mine. with the car "on" not running, the tps will read WOT, so with someone behind the wheel you can do that. some window switches, if im not mistaken, can be tested by setting the activation rmp to 0. so with the pedal to the floor and rpm set to 0, you could test the window switch output without running the car.

unfortunately my window switch will not activate at 0rpm. maybe yours will though

 

feel free to give us a call back. We can keep walking you threw trouble shooting if you cant figure out what is going on.

 

Yes I talked to chris I think it was when I was on the dyno Im going to get my brother to come over with his meter and check the wires, I have you're dual stage window switch will it activate set to 0 rpm with just the key on and armed? because no way to tell if the solenoids are clicking over the massive roar of exhaust and engine noise.

 

Why don't you disconnect the solenoids and run them straight to 12 volts to see if they are good. Then take the relay and supply 12 volts to it to see if it is clicking.

 

Relay clicks so its not that, but the tps signal will not let read at wot while programming step #8 it just reads 8:1.7 at idle and when I go wot it still reads the same flashing 8:1.7 Idk if this is my problem, could be the tps my tuner did say that the throttle position was showing that it was closed when he had his hp tuners hooked up to it idk if that could be the issues??? basically the nitrous stopped working after I did my fast intake install I probed the ground there solid its getting power where it should but I cant check the relay firing signal because the window switch wont trigger it. Idk if the part of the window switch is messed up but it all seems to work unless Im doing something wrong with the tps setting. I switched out the throttle body with the intake as well and then got it tuned and went to try the nitrous on the dyno nothing! Im lost and I dont want to spend money on a new window switch or other stuff when I dont know if its that or if its a minor issue that is right in front of my face.

 

If you drive it to Vicksburg we'll get it fixed! Lol!

 

Did you ever figure this out, I'm having the same problem