Detonation and nitrous
Re: Detonation and nitrous My heads are shaved and compression is around 11.5 to 1. My old stock cube setup was 11 to 1 and had some taken off the heads as well. You will be able to spray...the question is how much. I dont know what power level you have now but I would say even if its a heads and cam package you should be atleast able to spray a 100 shot, probaly more...provided your fuel system is capable. When you get to anything much bigger your gonna have to get control of timing somehow and start retarding it. Or run race gas.
Re: Detonation and nitrous Well...ive done it many times..Doh! During detonation the cylinder pressure and temp can be sky high.Sometimes nothing will happen. If its bad enough you can blow a head gasket, crack a piston ring land(been there done that), melt some plugs, melt part of you ehaust valve out the tailpipe,lol. I did that my last trip to the track. My buddies said they say a molten glob come out my tailpipe and bounce down the track. Lets just say,,,you do not want to detonate while running NA let alone nitrous. Start small and work your way up!
<small>[ March 20, 2002, 01:36 PM: Message edited by: 383LQ4SS ]</small>
<small>[ March 20, 2002, 01:36 PM: Message edited by: 383LQ4SS ]</small>
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Milford, Ohio
Re: Detonation and nitrous Two things can happen with pre-ignition and being on nitrous greatly exacerbates the results.
1) cylinder pressure reaches its peak as the piston is still traveling upward in the bore;
2) burn rate becomes too great and combustion temp get way too high.
Usually both occur to some extent depending on how bad it is. The second issue (heat) is usually what lead to ring land and ring issues, 'burned' pistons and exhaust valves. The pressure issue is what can actually break a piston (and the extra heat contributes as well). Forged pistons increase the safety threshold over the stock cast ones trmendously. Understand what you're doing and how timing is involved, watch your A/F, start small work up from there.
1) cylinder pressure reaches its peak as the piston is still traveling upward in the bore;
2) burn rate becomes too great and combustion temp get way too high.
Usually both occur to some extent depending on how bad it is. The second issue (heat) is usually what lead to ring land and ring issues, 'burned' pistons and exhaust valves. The pressure issue is what can actually break a piston (and the extra heat contributes as well). Forged pistons increase the safety threshold over the stock cast ones trmendously. Understand what you're doing and how timing is involved, watch your A/F, start small work up from there.
