Testing noid activation *click*
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: wentzville, MO
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I haven't sprayed for a while so I decided to check my noid activation by arming the system with the bottle closed and hitting the wot switch a couple times to see if I hear the noids open and close.
What I found was that I don't hear anything when I press the wot switch, but when I release it I hear a click. Is that normal? Or should I hear a click when I depress and release the wot switch?
What I found was that I don't hear anything when I press the wot switch, but when I release it I hear a click. Is that normal? Or should I hear a click when I depress and release the wot switch?
#3
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: wentzville, MO
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Could the wot switch be wired wrong? I had a cam put in it a while back and the guy who put it back together may have wired it wrong after he put it back together.
Or is what I described always a bad ground situation?
For the record is it supposed to click pressing and releasing the wot switch?
Or is what I described always a bad ground situation?
For the record is it supposed to click pressing and releasing the wot switch?
#4
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: wentzville, MO
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's what I did just now:
I changed the wiring on the wot switch so it clicks when the wot switch is pressed instead of released.
The click is kind of a double-click which made me think that it's opening for a sec then clicking closed.
So I started my car thinking that a little extra voltage should help. So when the engine is running the noid will click once when the switch is depressed and then again much quieter when the switch is released. Does it sound like I fixed it?
I changed the wiring on the wot switch so it clicks when the wot switch is pressed instead of released.
The click is kind of a double-click which made me think that it's opening for a sec then clicking closed.
So I started my car thinking that a little extra voltage should help. So when the engine is running the noid will click once when the switch is depressed and then again much quieter when the switch is released. Does it sound like I fixed it?
#5
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It should click when the WOT switch is pressed back like your throttle blade would press it.
It should click when the WOT switch is released also.
Sounds like he didn't know which wire was which and guessed.
Here's what I would do for a final test. Cut power to your fuel solenoid or unhook it's ground.
Unhook your nitrous line from the plate or nozzle you're using that runs from the nitrous solenoid to the nozzle or plate again whichever you're using.
Set your window switch at 500rpm.
Turn the car on, open the bottle valve, arm the system.
While the car is idling(I'm sure your car idles above 500rpm) hold the now disconnected nitrous line away from you and depress the wot switch.
If the nitrous sprays and then stops spraying when you release the wot switch it works.
Return your window switch back to it's normal rpm settings and hook the line back up and your fuel solenoid ground also.
It should click when the WOT switch is released also.
Sounds like he didn't know which wire was which and guessed.
Here's what I would do for a final test. Cut power to your fuel solenoid or unhook it's ground.
Unhook your nitrous line from the plate or nozzle you're using that runs from the nitrous solenoid to the nozzle or plate again whichever you're using.
Set your window switch at 500rpm.
Turn the car on, open the bottle valve, arm the system.
While the car is idling(I'm sure your car idles above 500rpm) hold the now disconnected nitrous line away from you and depress the wot switch.
If the nitrous sprays and then stops spraying when you release the wot switch it works.
Return your window switch back to it's normal rpm settings and hook the line back up and your fuel solenoid ground also.
#6
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: wentzville, MO
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll do that once I get the bottle filled, it's okay to hold the line and spray it? I figured it would be too much pressure or too cold or something.
Since my kit is dry I could almost just try it and if it doesn't fire I don't have to worry about dumping straight fuel in my cylinders.
Since my kit is dry I could almost just try it and if it doesn't fire I don't have to worry about dumping straight fuel in my cylinders.
Trending Topics
#8
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll do that once I get the bottle filled, it's okay to hold the line and spray it? I figured it would be too much pressure or too cold or something.
Since my kit is dry I could almost just try it and if it doesn't fire I don't have to worry about dumping straight fuel in my cylinders.
Since my kit is dry I could almost just try it and if it doesn't fire I don't have to worry about dumping straight fuel in my cylinders.
It shouldn't be hard to hold it just point it away from yourself.
No problem it's what we are here for.