so im thinking about a 100 shot of ZEX nitrous on my 2000 ls1 z28...
i hear that the new ZEX nitrous kits have a "Nitrous Management Unit" so where it wont make your car lean or rich on spray and that it is pretty safe and wont blow the intake. i just want to know what you guys think and if its safe and for those of you that do have ZEX or "smart" nitrous systems let me know if its good because i would like nitrous but i dont want to F my car up.

current mods to the car are:
intake
dyno tune
headers
TSP true dual exhaust
LS6 intake manifold
224 228 TSP cam .581 .588 112lsa
F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch

dyno before cam was 350rwhp/360lbstq
getting dyno'd tomorrow and should be around 390-400rwhp/tq

PS:do i need bigger heads and injectors or a different cam for the nitrous (currently 853 casting and 26lbs injectors)? is it better to have a nitrous plate put by the throttle body opposed to other applications? <<IMPORTANT!!!!>>and if i did get the spray, since its hooked up to the throttle can i WOT it 100% out of the hole or are you supposed to go around 50% until like 3000rpms and then 100%?<<IMPORTANT!!!!>>


btw this is what the description said exactly,
"The ideal nitrous system for any fuel injected vehicle.

All major components are factory pre-assembled inside the "Nitrous Management Unit". Easy, plug and play, two-hour installation.

ZEX Nitrous Systems have an advanced, patented feature called "Active Fuel Control". This feature monitors nitrous bottle pressure and adds or subtracts enrichment fuel so the engine never runs too rich, or too lean, when you engage the nitrous system.

ZEX "Wet" nitrous systems activate at wide-open throttle using advanced electronics that monitor your engine's throttle position sensor. This makes using your nitrous system very easy and reliable."

 

you would still have to pull timing i do believe but a 100 shot should not blow your car up, if you tune it for spray and use the right plugs or even not tuned but since you said your tuned not sure if you advanced timing or not i know on stock tune you can run 100 shot with out issues its not safe tho. If you have a wet kid you dont need injectors that more for a dry kit. I would get a window switch and set your rpm for when you want your nitrous to turn on/off. I would not spray outta the hole your rear end would break if your still on stock rear end

 

what do you mean by pull timing? and i cant spray off the line at the track (or in general) on stock rear end even with it kicking in at 3000rpms?

 

Retard the ignition timing. Rule of thumb is 2* for every 50 shot. Also run some tr6 plugs

 

thats what i figured it meant but just making sure

 

when you get a car tuned they pull timing for nitrous its like *2 per 50 shot your tuner should know that if you ask him and no dont spray outta the hole on less you wanna explode your rear end,and yes you can spray it at 3k rpm

 

no tr6 you need a non-projected plug ngk br6ef or br7ef part number 3346 at auto part stores

 

I actually run the br7's but I spray a lot and spray a bigger shot. Lol. Most people run tr6's if they are only using nitrous occasionally. Yes if you are gonna run it a lot go with a non-projected tip plug

 

AS far as spraying out of the hole you not only run the risk or breaking a rear end but more importantly you run the risk of breaking a motor and run the risk of a nitrous back fire. Spraying low in the rpm also stressed the motor. Usually you want to start spray around 3000 rpm. It is also not advised to run a window switch that low of an rpm. On the flip side you want your deactivation 100-200 rpm short or your shift point.

Second BR series will be a better option and allow you to have more cushion on the tune than the TR series plugs will have. No projected plugs will take more heat and resist melting the strap off.

As far as timing pulled you will most likely be looking to have about 3-4 degrees of timing pulled out of you car to run 100 shot.

Something i would highly recommend is that you have a fuel pump replaced. If you are making 390 to the wheels the stock fuel pump is going to be for about 450 whp. With a 100 shot you most likely are going to be out of the duty cycle of the fuel pump. a hot wire kit and pump or just a pump would be my recommendation. Pump alone can get you into the 500-550 whp range and with hot wire can get you into the 600-650 range.

As far as the zex management unit there is only 2 solenoids and TPS sensor in it. There is nothing that controls your tune up in any way.

 

Jesus Christ why do people still think it is ok to run TR6 PROJECTED tip plugs?!?!?!

Never ever ever ever EVER run a projected tip plug with nitrous or boost.

Even if your brothers uncles, cousins, best friends, sisters boyfriend ran Tr6's in his 1000hp corvette does not mean you should too!

That was just an example of what I hear a lot on this site(because he did it I can too and get away with it).

You always want a non projected tip plug with boost and/or nitrous. Period.

 

Neal from nitrous outlet is correct.
You are more then likely going to be on the very edge of your stock fuel pump limit.
The walbro along with the hotwire kit will cover you there.
The TR6 plugs were at one time "THE PLUG" to run with nitrous, but the BR6ef or BR7ef have proven to be safer and when tuned properly you will notice no loss of power na.
You have a cam, so your timing has more then likely been advanced by a smidge.
You want to pull 2 degrees for every 50 hp shot from your "STOCK" timing, so if your's has been advanced for the cam, you may need to pull more.
The window switch is a must have for you, as you have a manual trans.
If you miss a shift, break your 10 bolt, or anything else that causes you to hit the rev limiter, it could be a bummer.
So get the window switch.
I ran the ZEX kit for years, and had a lot of fun with it.
Worked flawlessly, and when I went with a nitrous outlet wet plate, I gave it to my friend
who put it on his '99 mustang gt.
He quickly found out that the Nitto 555r's were not going to cut it anymore, lol.
Have fun!