Anyone have any webpages that show's like a step by step install or any tips to make the install easier, I will most likely be installing the basic kit this weekend...

Thanks,
Bos

 

....and if you're as slow as me, you'll still be installing it the weekend after that and the weekend after that, etc. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I'm in the process of installing my F1 kit, too. I don't have the patience to do a how-to. I'm just figuring it out by myself one slow step at a time. I'm almost done with the under hood work. Just now made a Summit order for some fittings and hose to finish the purge amnd blowdown tube.

I ordered an NX electronic WOT switch instead of using the supplied switch. I can't come up with a setup I like. I've bent up four or five brackets so far. The NX e-switch ties into the factory TPS wiring. I paid $85 for mine. Can't tell you much more about it since it hasn't arrived yet, but it's supposed to be the $#!t.

I haven't started on any wiring/switches/panels yet. That's the real pian in the *** part as far as I'm concerned.

If you find a good how-to, let me know.

 

Yea, I figure if we (me and friends) work start to finish we can get it done, we are going to take our time though and get it all nice looking, etc...the wiring really isn't as bas as it seems... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Where are you running your purge to?

Also, where are you mounting your bottle, and do you have to drill to get the blow down tube to go outside of the car or are you just going to use the hose and run it out....please explain..

Thanks,
Bos

<small>[ April 28, 2002, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: BIGBOS ]</small>

 

I'm gonna run it straight back to the cowl with a single nozzle right in the middle. My purge solenoid is mounted right behind the TB where the "EGR indention" is on the LS6 intake. I'll use a -3 bulkhead fitting mounted in the plastic cowl trim to stabilize the stainless line.

 

I see, I am planning on putting the purge right there too, but I want to run a single line until it gets to about the window then T it off into 2 lines...can you pick up these little T fittings at local hardware stores or do they make them specially?

 

I'm mounting the bottle in the rear cargo area. I'll drill a hole to accept a -8 bulkhead fitting and run a flexible -8 braided hose to the bottle.

There are a couple of big rubber plugs (about 1") you could use if you really don't want to drill holes. I was gonna do that and cut a piece of wood to fit in the cargo area to mount the bottle on....just to avoid cutting any holes, but I'm gonna just go ahead and drill away....and run the hoses and wire where I want to.

Does that answer you're question?

 

You can use hardware store tees. They'll work fine. I'm using the Earl's stuff because it looks so cool, but it's ridiculous what you end up spending when you're done.

 

Yes, thanks... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I guess I am going to drill too.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Where are you mounting your fuel and N2O solenoids?

The reason I'm asking is because the new bracket they sent didn't fit so good. It mounted both noids on the passenger side of the TB, using the throttle cable bracket bolts.

I had them send me the old style brackets that mounted the noids on either side of the TB using a 5/16" hole in the top of the power ring. I had to drill and tap the hole. A lttle bit of a hassle, but it looks MUCH better.

Wasn't yours a used kit? You may not have any troubles since it's already been installed once.

 

Yea, I haven't recieved my kit yet, but yes I assume its the older version, which is good, all you do is mount the fuel and spray solenoids right over it, from the pics I have it looks like the spray one goes right over the ring, I can't get a close look though on to where the fuel one mounts...

 

Well I looked at the pics again, and it looks like they both mount to the ring...there is a bracket that they both attach to....so I guess its all good...I think the install of the main parts will be easy, the only things I don't like is the electrical, this will be the 2nd kit on the car, and this one won't be ghetto rigged... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

BIGBOS, your kit will be going out tommorrow, I can't stand to let you wait any longer while funds transfer <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> , You're chompin at the bit too hard!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
The electrical will be the toughest, but i'll be including the directions.
The ring is the "new" style(10 and 2 o'clock), but I had my brother-in-law (machinist) drill and tap a hole for the brackets( which was not there and TNT didn't tell me). If I were you I would consider filing down the "lip" on the TB cause the O-Ring that is in the power nozzel thingy is a bbeeaattcchh to get on! You'll have to trim your lid and bellows also to make the ring fit between the MAF and the TB. Overall the elec is the worse and I had "Slowhawk's" expertise in performing that. I have included the fuses he used (inline) that help protect the system. Any questions, feel free to ask, but when it comes to the elec, i'll have to defer to the elec gurus in the sky!!!!

 

Alright thanks... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

If I run into any too confusing problems I'm most likely just going to have my local speed shop do the electrical...they do great work... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I didn't know you had to cut off the bellows too...I thought you just had to take 1" off the Lid...I got the SLP lid, with an 85mm SLP MAF, and then I have the SLP bellows...How much do you have to take off the bellows?

 

I had the SLP lid too. I only took about 1/4 inch off each end, but your app may work out with 1" taken off the lid. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

I will do what the instructions say to do...there is a little fitting on the end of the bellows and from the way I'm putting it all together in my head I think I'm going to need to cut off of both sides...

So I should file around the lip of the TB...all the way around?

 

I know it took me ALOT of pushin to get it on without doing it! To do it over again , I WOULD! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> BTW I'm throwing in some sheathing and wrap for the lines. And since i'm sick to see my "garage" so empty, it's outta here in a few, i'll email you the tracking number before noon.

 

love2xlr8 My wiring work down the tubes again <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />
When modifying the lid,trim a little at a time.An easier way is to buy a Fernco 3" coupling instead of using the stock coupling.Good luck on the install.And I would recommend not running the SLP MA at first,They are known to lean out the car on N2O.

 

SLOWHAWK, your wiring work was the BEST!
Have fun BIGBOS! I included a little dyno sheet so you can see the results of a 150 shot!!!

 

Alright great, this should be a nice setup... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I got the tracking # too... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Whats this sheating wrap you are talking about <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

It just the stuff to wrap up the wires and N20 lines in. Looks great.