Don't bash me but I'm a little lost here on my nitrous install. I'm buying a TNT F1 Wet Kit. It already has the bottle warmer. I want to do this the safe, reliable way. I can't afford to not have my car for transportation. Here is the list I've made from what I've read.
-TNT F1 Wet Kit
-Bottle Warmer
-Remote Bottle Opener
-Purge Kit-Do I have to have this? Does it help much? How?
-WOT Switch
-Mallory Window switch with pills..?? Can I do the Harlen Window switch? Will I need two Harlen switches? How do these work? The spray comes on at a certain rpm and shuts off at a certain rpm?
-NGK TR-6 plugs..?? Are these neccesary? This is also where I get really confused. Your supposed to gap your plugs at a certain amount for optimum spark right? Well thats great when your using the nitrous but what about when I'm running without it the other 99.9999% of the time?
What about a progressive Controller? I've gathered that these have two dials. One lets you dial in beginning amount of N20 and the other dials in how much time before it gives full spray at whatever jets your using. Do these only work on auto's? I have an M6 so how would this work for me? My problem is that I don't want to rip out my rearend. I only plan on doing the 75 shot as I've read that most people are seeing around 90rwhp and 170-190 rwtq. I have a completely stock car down to the clutch. Will it be able to handle this? I would do a 50 jet if they had one I just can't see my car handling an extra IMMEDIATE 180lbs of torque.
Finally, what about my fuel system? Will I need to upgrade my factory fuel pump or injectors? What about a fuel pressure safety switch? Does that apply to my application? I just want to make sure I'm going about this all right. If I have to spend an extra 500 dollars to save me a 5000 dollar engine I will.
And what about gauges? I see me getting no responses here. Sorry this is so long.

 

I'll try to answer at least some of your questions.

Looks like you have a very complete list. I just added an TNT F1 kit. Bolt ons but engine is shock. I am use the 100 shot right out of the hole - I also have an M6.

First of your questions: do you have to have a purge system. No you don't but what it does is make you NOS available right off - no delays - even if it is a second or two. I basically 'pre-loads' your system - no air in the lines.

What you don't need is the bottle opener - unless you are going to be street race <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> .

The NGK's are the best (coldest) you'll need. The more power you make you closer the gap. Stock you should be gapping them about .037-.040. It will not hurt your normal day to day driving that much.

Harlan switch vice Mallory. Harlan make some great stuff. If I would have known before hand that he made them I would have gone that way - but I already got the MSD switch.. He can combine a window switch and shift light. E-mail him, he'll do about anything.

Your fuel system is fine up a 100 shot. Any more than that you'll need to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump.

A progress controller. For the $450 if you are not racing consistently I am not sure it would be worth it. But if you do race a lot they work great. You can program it to start off with 50% of the max - say you are using 100 shot jets. You would get a 50 shot off the line and than it would progress upto the max (100 shot). The way I understand it you can do it a couple of differnt ways.

Good luck

David

 

I would think you would want the purge on it... clears the line of air bubbles and plus it looks really cool <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

2nd i would think you would want a N20 Pressure Gauge and maybe dual A/F gauges also.

Fuel pressure safety switch is also a really good idea.

I used the Mallory window.. so i wouldn't have to mess with the pills. 4 screws and i adjust my activation/deactivation.

I would sell the remote bottle opener and use it for the FPSS

JMHO