N20 and suspension question
N20 and suspension question I know you guys aren't suspension guys but I have an issue that I need to resolve. I recently changed my rear gear from a 4.11 to a 3.73 and upped the N20 from a 150 shot to a 200 shot. With the 150 shot and the 4.11 gear I went a best of 9.90@134mph with a 1.35 60ft running out of gear on the big end of the track. I recently went to the track again to test the new changes. Now my car is spinning the tires off the line. I ran the car twice last Saturday. My first pass was a 1.43 60ft 9.90@139.8mph with the car spinning off the line.. The second pass was a 1.47 60ft 9.90@138.9mph spinning even worst off the line.. I have full suspension on the car with strange single adjustable shocks in the rear. My rear shocks are set all the way tight right now. Here is a video of the last pass of the night, Please any help would be great..
Thanks
Here is the last 9.90@134mph pass with the 4.11 gears
Thanks
Here is the last 9.90@134mph pass with the 4.11 gears
Last edited by odarabla; Oct 9, 2012 at 03:49 PM.
What do you mean slow it down? I can tighten the front shocks some. I have strange single adjustable shocks in the front to..
I think its a front shock adjustment, they need to be set stiff so the weight stays on the rear tires longer.
Last edited by Cold06; Oct 10, 2012 at 04:57 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo My car is a 02' Camaro. It has stock springs and shocks all the way around. Spohn Tunnel mount torque arm, adjustable lowers, LCA relocation brackets, Pro anti roll bar.
The car has -2 degrees pinion angle and LCA's are in center hole of brackets.
I run on 275/40r17 MT Drag radials. Car usually 60's in the mid to low 1.70's on motor. I have a 3200 stall in it.
I put a 100 shot on it and it does fine if I grab the button 40-50 feet out, but If I gas it out of the hole it blows the tires off and felt like some wheel hop.
What should I do? Shocks? 15" tires?
Thought about moving LCA's to bottom hole on LCA brackets.
The nitrous picked the car up 6/10 in the 1/8 hitting it 40-50 ft out, but still 60' about the same as on motor. I'd love to be able to make it stick, I think it's got another 2/10 in it in the 60' if I can get it to.
Here's a link to a pick of it leaving.
http://www.ColePhoto.net/gm2012/e4237087a
The car has -2 degrees pinion angle and LCA's are in center hole of brackets.
I run on 275/40r17 MT Drag radials. Car usually 60's in the mid to low 1.70's on motor. I have a 3200 stall in it.
I put a 100 shot on it and it does fine if I grab the button 40-50 feet out, but If I gas it out of the hole it blows the tires off and felt like some wheel hop.
What should I do? Shocks? 15" tires?
Thought about moving LCA's to bottom hole on LCA brackets.
The nitrous picked the car up 6/10 in the 1/8 hitting it 40-50 ft out, but still 60' about the same as on motor. I'd love to be able to make it stick, I think it's got another 2/10 in it in the 60' if I can get it to.
Here's a link to a pick of it leaving.
http://www.ColePhoto.net/gm2012/e4237087a
My car is a 02' Camaro. It has stock springs and shocks all the way around. Spohn Tunnel mount torque arm, adjustable lowers, LCA relocation brackets, Pro anti roll bar.
The car has -2 degrees pinion angle and LCA's are in center hole of brackets.
I run on 275/40r17 MT Drag radials. Car usually 60's in the mid to low 1.70's on motor. I have a 3200 stall in it.
I put a 100 shot on it and it does fine if I grab the button 40-50 feet out, but If I gas it out of the hole it blows the tires off and felt like some wheel hop.
What should I do? Shocks? 15" tires?
Thought about moving LCA's to bottom hole on LCA brackets.
The nitrous picked the car up 6/10 in the 1/8 hitting it 40-50 ft out, but still 60' about the same as on motor. I'd love to be able to make it stick, I think it's got another 2/10 in it in the 60' if I can get it to.
Here's a link to a pick of it leaving.
http://www.ColePhoto.net/gm2012/e4237087a
The car has -2 degrees pinion angle and LCA's are in center hole of brackets.
I run on 275/40r17 MT Drag radials. Car usually 60's in the mid to low 1.70's on motor. I have a 3200 stall in it.
I put a 100 shot on it and it does fine if I grab the button 40-50 feet out, but If I gas it out of the hole it blows the tires off and felt like some wheel hop.
What should I do? Shocks? 15" tires?
Thought about moving LCA's to bottom hole on LCA brackets.
The nitrous picked the car up 6/10 in the 1/8 hitting it 40-50 ft out, but still 60' about the same as on motor. I'd love to be able to make it stick, I think it's got another 2/10 in it in the 60' if I can get it to.
Here's a link to a pick of it leaving.
http://www.ColePhoto.net/gm2012/e4237087a
How much does the rear end separate from the body of the car when it launches? Or does it squat and push the tire up into the fender well area?
If you have strange singles they should have 12 settings. Put them at number 6 in the front to start and tighten the front until it won't hook anymore or until it slows down. As long as it stays hooked the tighter the front end the faster it will be.
If it shakes the tires it needs more air pressure and/or a tighter compression setting in the shock. If you do not have double adjustable shocks you cannot adjust the compression setting. Single adjustable shocks like Odarabla has can only adjust the compression/rebound as one adjustment. Meaning you cannot set the rebound looser than the compression or vice versa. If you loosen the shock on a single adjustable it loosens the compression also. On a radial this makes things difficult.
How much does the rear end separate from the body of the car when it launches? Or does it squat and push the tire up into the fender well area?
Leave the rear shocks alone and tighten the front.
If you have strange singles they should have 12 settings. Put them at number 6 in the front to start and tighten the front until it won't hook anymore or until it slows down. As long as it stays hooked the tighter the front end the faster it will be.
How much does the rear end separate from the body of the car when it launches? Or does it squat and push the tire up into the fender well area?
Leave the rear shocks alone and tighten the front.
If you have strange singles they should have 12 settings. Put them at number 6 in the front to start and tighten the front until it won't hook anymore or until it slows down. As long as it stays hooked the tighter the front end the faster it will be.
SO leave the rear shocks all the way stiff and put the fronts on #6. The car is spinning off the line now so hopefully it will hook. Then continue to tighten up the front shock until the car spins again or slows down. What do I do if the I out the front shocks on #6 setting and the car still spins? Do I loosen the rear shocks at that point?
See what that does and if it still spins take it down a click at a time from there in the rear. What tire pressure are you running? Can you get a video of how much the sidewall wrinkles also?
I think what is happening is the front is rising so quickly that it's getting a good initial bite, but because it's so loose it's hitting the top of the shocks travel and then coming right back down unloading the rear tires and making it spin.
If you had double adjustables you'd be able to tighten the compression setting separately and have it at full tight or very near full tight so that when it extends on the rebound stroke and tops out it can't slam back down near as quickly and will keep the nose of the car up.
With your single adjustable shocks set at full loose not only is the rebound/extension at full loose but so is your compression. So not only will it extend extremely quickly because it's full loose, but it will want to compress and come back down just as quick because there is no compression setting in the shock to keep the nose held up.
Yes if you put it on 6 in the front and it spins excessively loosen 2 clicks initially in the rear.
See what that does and if it still spins take it down a click at a time from there in the rear. What tire pressure are you running? Can you get a video of how much the sidewall wrinkles also?
I think what is happening is the front is rising so quickly that it's getting a good initial bite, but because it's so loose it's hitting the top of the shocks travel and then coming right back down unloading the rear tires and making it spin.
If you had double adjustables you'd be able to tighten the compression setting separately and have it at full tight or very near full tight so that when it extends on the rebound stroke and tops out it can't slam back down near as quickly and will keep the nose of the car up.
With your single adjustable shocks set at full loose not only is the rebound/extension at full loose but so is your compression. So not only will it extend extremely quickly because it's full loose, but it will want to compress and come back down just as quick because there is no compression setting in the shock to keep the nose held up.
See what that does and if it still spins take it down a click at a time from there in the rear. What tire pressure are you running? Can you get a video of how much the sidewall wrinkles also?
I think what is happening is the front is rising so quickly that it's getting a good initial bite, but because it's so loose it's hitting the top of the shocks travel and then coming right back down unloading the rear tires and making it spin.
If you had double adjustables you'd be able to tighten the compression setting separately and have it at full tight or very near full tight so that when it extends on the rebound stroke and tops out it can't slam back down near as quickly and will keep the nose of the car up.
With your single adjustable shocks set at full loose not only is the rebound/extension at full loose but so is your compression. So not only will it extend extremely quickly because it's full loose, but it will want to compress and come back down just as quick because there is no compression setting in the shock to keep the nose held up.
Thanks again for all the help guys
Gotcha.. This is some good info man thanks a bunch. I do have one question about the OT sensors. The car is a street car and after every race where I use spray my O2 sensors go out. I am spraying Shell URT 110 gas with the N2O. Is it normal for spray to messup the O2 sensors? Do you guys think it could be the Fuel i'm spraying with? I'm getting tired of changing O2's..
Thanks again for all the help guys
Thanks again for all the help guys
I checked on it and it says it's unleaded fuel n=but everytime I spray it kills my O2's Geoff at EPS told me to just unplug them and take then out when I go racing..
Gonna jump back in here with a quick ? on what I posted above about my car. Do you think it would help the weight transfer on the car to disconnect or remove the front sway bar?
Here's a pic of it leaving, if Just doesn't seem like it's transferring well.
http://www.colephoto.net/gm2012/h4237087A#h4237087a
Here's a pic of it leaving, if Just doesn't seem like it's transferring well.
http://www.colephoto.net/gm2012/h4237087A#h4237087a