I’ve got a friend who wants to put nitrous on her 2002 Z28. It’s an auto. How big of a shot could she run without messing the engine/tranny up? The car is bone stock right down to the air filter. Would you run a wet or dry kit? My friends got a wet kit from Nitous Express that he used to have on his stang but took off. Would this kit work on her car? Thanks for the help.

 

Yes the kit will work on her car.The jet pattern will be different than the mustang though.
Dave

 

I have a 2001 Z06 and I run a 150 wet.

Most people I talk to recommend upto 100 dry (and anything over that wet). It is safer then a wet shot and it uses half the parts. So in return much easier to install. Because it is an automatic you really don't need a window switch, but it is still nice to have. To be ultra safe....stick to dry and between 50-75HP. 100 will work, but sometimes it is better safe then sorry. I haven't had any probs with mine and lots of friends don't have any problems yet either. Hell, you could run a 125 wet and be safe.........but it is all in the risk! Just wait and see what people have to say.

 

The wet kit is just as safe as a dry.Just have it installed correctly.Its smart to use the window switch to keep the nitrous from coming on before 3000 rpms. The nitrous coming on before 3000 rpms could cause a nitrous backfire.This is what everyone considers unsafe.This can happen with both dry and wet kits.You will get more power out of the wet kit.A dry 150 shot is only 90hp.The Nitrous Express kit 150 shot wet,is a 150 hp to the rear wheels.Dynos dont lie!!
Dave

 

thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for the help yall. Now why would you want to run a dry instead of a wet? I figured the wet would be safer cause you wouldn't really have top worry about it running to lean? Correct me if I am wrong. I am used to working on diesel's. Also, what kind of spark plugs would yall recommend? I know you have to go at least one degree colder. But how much should you gap them at? Will the TC and VB hold up to the 100 shot? Also, what about intake and exhaust upgrades? Which ones are really worth the money? Thanks again for the help. One more question, could you modify a wet kit to become a dry kit but not hooking up the fuel solenoid? Or is it just plain stupid. And if the jet pattern is different, where could I get the correct jet's and jet settings? Thanks a bunch.

<small>[ June 30, 2002, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: BigBlue ]</small>

 

Wet is just as safe? Thats funny I havent seen any dry kits blow up the intake.

 

Dry is safer due to what was mentioned in the last post.

In wet kits you have a a huge chace of nitrous puddling in the intake and then detonation. In this case you would "fry" your intake. This does not happen in a dry system because all the fuel is coming from the injectors and this is controlled by the MAF.

As for making a wet into a dry kit....sure. All you have to do is remove the fuel solenoid. I would also suggest buying a dry nozzle....which are normally available all over in local shops. The difference is that there is no place for fuel on the nozzle, and they are only $10.

As for making more power with a wet <img border="0" alt="[boring]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_zzz.gif" /> ........ You can make just as much with a dry. There is no such thing as creating power in thin air (simple physics). Eveyone's car will respond different with different pill sizes. If you are pilled for a 150 shot you have to lose power through the drive train....no buts.....you have to! If you are making 150 at the wheels then you are actually pilled for a higher shot (i.e. 170 using a 15% loss factor).

If you are making 90HP with a 150 shot....you would have to have the least efficient drive train known to man. You would be losing 40% through the drive train. A 150 shot should produce around 127RWHP using a 15% loss factor.

Everyone's car is different so pill sizes will vary. Even if you call the manufacturer of your kit they will tell you that the numbers are for general purposes and you should do some of your own testing.

Pretty general#'s for pill sizes would be:
(for a dry or wet shot, but obiviously the fuel pill is not included)
Shot - Pill Size
50 .037
75 .042
100 .047
125 .055
150 .063
175 .070
200 .082
250 .093

Of coarse the type of nozzle you use will change this some, but not much at all. I would consider all of these a safe estimate for any single nozzle dry shot! You are right dyno's do not lie. I have used almost all of these on a wet and dry system.

No matter what, you can make the same power with a dry as with a wet...why would you want to do extra work for the same power (hell, it is more unsafe) The only benefit to a wet is when you get into larger shots......usually over 125HP!

 

BTW,

You won't lean your car out with a shot of up to 100. That is what most people run dry and most people say that is all the MAF is capable of compensating for safely.

Hence the reason for running a wet shot over 125........!

If I could I would never run a wet shot....I just wish we had the fuel and MAF to do it!

 

Here's the mans page on nitrous (Colonel)....

If he says it...I would listen! He has the times to prove his claims! People recognize him as being extremely knowledable (at least around here)

http://home.ican.net/~jsetter/nitrous.html

 

The way the Nitrous Express nozzles are desighned you dont have to worry about the raw fuel puddling in the intake.Thats why it is safe for super charged cars to run it.Yes i have seen nitrous back fires from a dry kit.I watched a guy blow the side of his performer intake off the motor and push the hood up three inches on his mustang.There is a chance of this happening with any kit if it is not installed properly.Yes nitrous express claims there horse power ratings at the ground.Yes when a wet kit has a nitrous back fire it could be more serious than a dry because of the fuel.Install it correctly and injoy.
Dave