After seeing some very interesting results and data from the dyno here at the shop from some customers, our shop car, another fellow Real Street 275 racer's car and my personal car I did a little re-design on our nitrous cams based on those results. You can assure yourself when you buy one of these that the specs used are based off real world results and testing.

Just thought I'd give the heads up for those stock cube guys that are really looking to push the envelope. These won't fit in a stock bottom end without fly-cutting, and honestly fly-cutting a stock piston and then trying to spray 250-300hp on top of that isn't a very good idea. Mainly for those hard core forged 5.3-6.2 guys and I have one for stock cube rectangle port set-ups as well. The cathedral port nitrous cams will also work well in a 383 set-up with a single plane or a fast intake IF the ICL is retarded some for the larger 4" stroke so the cam doesn't peak too early.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls2-engines/
^This would be the one I would use in a 383.^

The stock cubic inch rectangle port nitrous cam is: 235/251 .62x"/.62x" 114+4

 

very interesting. im no cam expert but i have been trying to educated myself over the last few years. i would like to see some dyno graphs & car info if its available. im running a stock ls1 block, t56, trickflow 215's, fast 102/102, kooks longtubes, FMS cam - F7-114 FMS 224"/230" .588"/.595" 114LSA. made 430/410 n/a, on a 150 shot nozzle before the t/b, made 640.... just interesting to see the diff in the cam specs

 

Well, I have dyno graphs from our shop car and my car on file, and all of them have cams that you would never think were "nitrous cams". That said, the cam in my car even though it picks up very well on the spray as I gained 260rwhp from a .82 jet which is rated at 225rwhp, It falls off very hard after 6500rpm because the exhaust valve isn't opening early enough to fully allow the exhaust port to evacuate the cylinder at high rpm's. My cam is 239/247 110+0 and if it was 239/252 113+3 or so it wouldn't fall off like it does.

Here is a dyno graph for my car on motor and then on the .82 jet. You can see how great it holds the power curve out on motor, but on nitrous it just falls on its face much sooner:
N/A pull with 27* timing


Here is a N/A pull with nitrous timing 17-18.5* degrees overlayed with what my car made on the .082 jet. Note the sharp decline in power after 6500-6600rpm:


Here is a N/A pull with full N/A timing(27*) versus my .082n jet pull, again note the broad flat power curve on motor, but on nitrous the sharp decline. This is from not opening the exhaust valve soon enough to allow the exhaust port time to fully evacuate the cylinder:


Now here is our shop car, on these pulls it was 427 c.i., All Pro 250cc Drag Port 6 bolt cylinder heads, 12.5:1 compression, Super Victor single plane intake, Tiny 254/260 .6xx/.6xx 110+2 cam and an out of the box Wilson Pro-Flo plate with a .082n jet. This is also through a power glide with 3.60 rear gears in a Burkhart 9" with 18psi of air in the tires so no dyno tricks to pump the numbers up. This cam isn't what you would consider a nitrous cam at all, but look what it picks up from motor to nitrous. The 882rwhp/717rwtq was with a .082n jet. and the 986rwhp/787rwtq is from a .104 jet. The 573rwhp/446rwtq N/A pull was made with nitrous timing:


Now notice how N/A it pulls cleanly and has a very nice broad power curve all the way to nearly 7500 rpm. Note how it picks up nearly 300rwhp on a .082 jet rated for 225rwhp. Now the kicker....notice on the .082n jet it pulls cleanly like it did on the N/A pull, but on the .104 jet as soon as it peaks it begins to fall off just like my cam in my car did. Now, you may ask why the shop car didn't fall off like my car on the smaller jet if the cam is the problem. I can answer that with, an All-Pro head has a MUCH stronger exhaust port than my stock 241 heads could ever have, even ported so there is the reason why. It wouldn't need as early of an EVO event compared to my heads because of that, but toss that .104 jet in the mix and bam, we've got the same issue arising and will only get worse as nitrous volume increases.

It all comes down to this; you don't need some crazy 20-30 degree split cam on a 118-120LSA for nitrous. Unless you've got a BBC or a bad *** SBC/LS in Outlaw Drag Radial or X275 that your spraying with 600+hp of nitrous, you don't need it. A good N/A cam will pick up the same amount of power if not more than a nitrous cam will up to a certain amount of volume. At that point it really doesn't lose any peak power, but the average power goes out the window as I've shown from the power falling off so quickly compared to N/A pulls and smaller jets. At that point if your exhaust port isn't strong enough, or you don't have enough cam to evacuate that cylinder, the power is going to fall off hard and you will lose E.T. from the loss in average power. This where a "nitrous" cam comes in with an earlier EVO event to extend that peak power RPM range so power doesn't fall off and that E.T. isn't lost. If you go with a "nitrous" cam that gives up a lot of overlap versus a N/A cam, it isn't going to pick up as much power as another "nitrous" cam would that has more overlap. Overlap=power and contrary to popular belief it doesn't lose power in a heavy nitrous application as you can see.

These cams aren't for everyone, they are meant for guys spraying at least 250hp-300hp of nitrous so that these same things don't happen to them. It will depend on the amount of nitrous sprayed and how well the exhaust port flows. Header primary size also plays a large part in this as well. If you have a smaller diameter primary, but you're spraying a lot of nitrous, you're going to need an even earlier event to help the exhaust port out in scavenging the intake and evacuating the cylinder.

I hope this information shows guys that you don't necessarily need a nitrous cam to pick up big power on spray, but that if you are really starting to get after it with jet, you're going to need to do something about this problem that will happen sooner than later.

 

learn something new everyday, thanks for the great info

 

No problem. I used to be of the thought that you need those crazy intake to exhaust duration splits and super wide LSA's with low overlap figures to pick up a lot of power on nitrous versus a N/A cam, but after spending tens of hours on the dyno with my car, the shop car and other customers cars I realized that it wasn't needed and was actually making LESS power than the way I grind them now.

 

Our last nitrous cam had 12* split on a 116lsa .... maybe thats why it was a terd.

 

I wouldn't call it a terd!!!

Did it respond well to the second kit Wayne? How much E.T./MPH did it pick up when you turned the second one on versus one kit?

 

.15-.2 I think .... didnt run on 1 kit but a few times when we first go it going.
It REALLY liked the bigger headers!!

 

ATV who grinds your cams?

 

Comp.

 

OK. We have some specs for a custom comp grind we plan on swapping to soon, just wanted to know if you had success with a different vendor. Thanks

 

Hmmm I wonder why

It's all about helping the exhaust port out when you're spraying the volume of nitrous you were. You could of added 10 degrees exhaust duration on your old deal and it would of been begging for more.

 

I'm looking for a n2o cam for my 13.1 451 with LS7 heads and mast single plane. any ideas?

 

Sure! Send me your email addess in a PM and I'll send you a spec sheet to fill out.

 

Great info Martin.

 

No problem. Guys like real world results, these are my real world results. I've got some data from a Rectangle Port head motor also, but that info is top secret.... I'll just say, the same rules apply to it as they do a Cathedral port set-up...combination specific and generic "it has to have this" needs to be thrown out the window.

 

What about guys who have stock bottom ends and don't want to have to get a different of pistons to run these cams?

There are alot of us out there Martin who don't want to have to keep buying up MS3's

 

I can always do a custom cam for 20.00 bucks more.

I spec'd one for a guy the other day that didn't want to fly-cut and spray 250-300. Ended up specifying 233/244 .619"/.595" 112.5+2 for that particular set-up.

These are slated for the guys that want to run stock cubic inches and spray more than 250-300 which is why they aren't for everyone. Most guys with stock bottom ends aren't going to go over 200-250 anyways and most if not all of what we offer "off the shelf" will work with those set-ups just fine.

 

Not necessarily. Just adding duration to his exhaust side would have probably hurt it. I know of quite a few folks that like to over cam the motor and can't understand why it doesn't run like it should. There is one mozez headed motor out there now that is way to big on duration on the exhaust side and I expect to see significant gains on that car with a cam change.

 

Our 396 with C5r heads ran alot faster with a smaller cam.
Had just as much nitrous on that motor.