What are the symptoms of a nitrous solenoid going fubar? In the last couple of runs i had trying to spray the car, it only worked 2 out of 6 times. The noid its a Nos Cheater 16000, are those noids mediocre or are they decent?. It could also be a wiring issue too, but i'm not sure and would like to get to the bottom before i spend money buying the wrong part. I have a MSD Digital window switch set to 3k and 6.5k on/off, theres a relay for the noids ground, wot micro switch at t/b, and the activation switch located inside the car, the only thing i see it could be a small issue is i have the bottle heater working off the same switch, so when i activate the the system the heater turns on too... i was thinking it could draw too much current but not 100%....anyone?

 

here are some recent runs from one night, on the 1st and 3rd run the spray worked fine but not on the other runs where she was supposed to

i was cutting off the activation switch everytime after a run to keep the bottle temp within reason and turned on before a run....

 

anyone? is that a sign of a noid going bad?

 

Is it a wet setup? If so, doubt if both solenoids would be bad.

 

Thanks ^^ Now that I think about it you are right, ty

 

I had this happen to my car, and I found out the coil was getting weak. I hooked the solenoid directly to the battery and at 1050 psi it wouldn't open. When I lower it to 900 psi, it opened. Bought a new solenoid and it works fine. Also check your ground... Make sure to ground your solenoid a to the block or heads instead of the body

 

thanks for the heads up, but now that i think about it, i have a wet shot and the 2 noids are grounded together through a relay, so if it was just the nos noid i would had noticed the afr's going through the roof on my wideband.