How do my plugs look?
#2
Ls1tech & Truck Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,267
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From: Wichita falls Texas
That plug looks pretty good. Definately in the safe zone. I would go to the track, and pull one more degree of timing out, and see if it picks up any. But you have a great basepoint. If you are trying to squeeze a little more out of the car, go to the track and pull a degree of timing, and see if the car picks up any, MPH wise. The simplest way to put this is, you want the least amount of timing, without the car slowing down. If you read any on yellowbullet, there is a thread where they pulled more timing, and the truck actually picked up MPH. I know this sounds weird, but its something worth a try, I'll see if I can locate the thread in the meantime. Let me know if you have any questions.
-Garrett
-Garrett
#3
Thank you for that input! And thank you guys for shipping the Jets I needed and getting them next day! Hopefully the weather will be decent next week. Would it be worth while to Change jetting on Fuel side as well? Goal is to spray 150-175.
#4
I think it looks a little rich. Cut the threads off the plug so we can see the porcelain.
How much idle and driving time are on these plugs. They look old... Maybe it's just the camera.
How much idle and driving time are on these plugs. They look old... Maybe it's just the camera.
#5
Here is my plug for reference. This was on a 150 shot LS1. This plug could use a little cleaning up but it's pretty close.
The best way is to tune it at the track using ET and MPH while keeping an eye on the plugs. Run it the 1/4 and turn the key off at the line and coast to the return road. Put as little idle time on it as possible because it'll mess with how the plugs look.
Also we need to see all the plugs and not just one to really help you.
The best way is to tune it at the track using ET and MPH while keeping an eye on the plugs. Run it the 1/4 and turn the key off at the line and coast to the return road. Put as little idle time on it as possible because it'll mess with how the plugs look.
Also we need to see all the plugs and not just one to really help you.
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#9
Buy like 4 or 5 sets of NGK BR7EF plugs and take her to the track, after each pass shut it down like I said and pull them, take pics and record which cyl is which. Record your track times with each pass and each set of plugs so you can see what the car wants. One thing I've learned is that there is no standard "awesome nitrous tune". Each motor is different.
Nitrous motors are like women, if you just start guessing what they want without doing research, you'll more than likely just **** them off and they will leave you hanging.
#11
You won't be able to tell a thing from a 250 mile plug. I could tell they were driven on by the pic but wanted to ask to make sure.
Buy like 4 or 5 sets of NGK BR7EF plugs and take her to the track, after each pass shut it down like I said and pull them, take pics and record which cyl is which. Record your track times with each pass and each set of plugs so you can see what the car wants. One thing I've learned is that there is no standard "awesome nitrous tune". Each motor is different.
Nitrous motors are like women, if you just start guessing what they want without doing research, you'll more than likely just **** them off and they will leave you hanging.
Buy like 4 or 5 sets of NGK BR7EF plugs and take her to the track, after each pass shut it down like I said and pull them, take pics and record which cyl is which. Record your track times with each pass and each set of plugs so you can see what the car wants. One thing I've learned is that there is no standard "awesome nitrous tune". Each motor is different.
Nitrous motors are like women, if you just start guessing what they want without doing research, you'll more than likely just **** them off and they will leave you hanging.
#12
A wideband is a great tuning tool but keep in mind that it is a cumulative average of all they cylinders and generally is only reading one side. It's good for reference but nothing will make for a better and more safe nitrous tune than looking at each individual plug, recording ET and trap speeds with each change.
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I always LOL when people talk about losing HP running a colder plug. I'm not sure where this myth got started but no one in here is gonna convince me that car lost more than 5fwhp by switching from a factory plug to a plug that's 1.5 stages colder.
Every good nitrous tune is based off of a GOOD motor tune. People that have issues with BR7 plugs have issues elsewhere and the plug just points that out. A BR7 is not that cold of a plug. I've been daily driving on BR7 plugs for a few years now and never had an issue fouling one out or anything like that. Clean tune = clean plugs.
Every good nitrous tune is based off of a GOOD motor tune. People that have issues with BR7 plugs have issues elsewhere and the plug just points that out. A BR7 is not that cold of a plug. I've been daily driving on BR7 plugs for a few years now and never had an issue fouling one out or anything like that. Clean tune = clean plugs.