Nitrous didn't hit...
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Nitrous didn't hit... Please help on where to start diagnosis..Nitrous newb so be patient with me.
Trick window switch set up: lock out first gear, spray 3600-6300 for 2&3.
Harris plate,heater working, bottle pressure good, purges, all connections and grounds appear ok. Only reason I know is car ran identical back to back times with it off and on (1/8th mi). How can I check it in my garage? It worked on the dyno during tuning a month ago....
Trick window switch set up: lock out first gear, spray 3600-6300 for 2&3.
Harris plate,heater working, bottle pressure good, purges, all connections and grounds appear ok. Only reason I know is car ran identical back to back times with it off and on (1/8th mi). How can I check it in my garage? It worked on the dyno during tuning a month ago....
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
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First thing to do in the event of electric issues is always check
1. all fuse locations related to components/function in question
2. All grounds
3. Power leads
4. Start assesing actual electronic components relays ect..
Dont assume things are ok because they were fine in the past. verify with a volt meter and be sure of what your working with its easy to be chasing around replacing fuses and swaping relays and such only to discover after hours it was something simple like a bad ground or swich.
1. all fuse locations related to components/function in question
2. All grounds
3. Power leads
4. Start assesing actual electronic components relays ect..
Dont assume things are ok because they were fine in the past. verify with a volt meter and be sure of what your working with its easy to be chasing around replacing fuses and swaping relays and such only to discover after hours it was something simple like a bad ground or swich.
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From: Ft. Myers, FL
It should activate on the 1-2 shift and stay on 3600-6300rpm, through 3rd all the way out the back. As stated something isn't right as it ran identical back to back time and mph.
Last edited by ragtopz28; Dec 22, 2013 at 05:25 PM.
The reaon I ask is because I had a similar situation where it was cutting in and out, and I found out it was a faulty window switch that was interferring with the solenoid activation when inside the 3000-6500 rpm range.
To test if the kit is firing try this:
1. Disconnect the nitrous and fuel from the solenoids.
2. Lower your window switch settings to activate as low as possible.
3. Put your hands on then while you have someone rev the motor to the activation RPM.
You will feel the solenoids "click" at the RPM activation point if there isn't a problem. If you don't feel them clicking do as stated above and get your volt meter out and start chasing down a wiring issue or window switch issue.
1. Disconnect the nitrous and fuel from the solenoids.
2. Lower your window switch settings to activate as low as possible.
3. Put your hands on then while you have someone rev the motor to the activation RPM.
You will feel the solenoids "click" at the RPM activation point if there isn't a problem. If you don't feel them clicking do as stated above and get your volt meter out and start chasing down a wiring issue or window switch issue.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2013
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Id replace the relay and see. I installed my kit made a couple test hit's and all the sudden the nitrous stopped activating. Just so happen the relay went bad. I also wired up a LED light inside of the car to let me know if the noids are getting power.
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Keep em coming...hope to have someone that knows more about wiring (def my weak point) to help me sort this out soon.
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From: Ft. Myers, FL
I thought it was set right - 3600-6300, 1st cycle locked, 6450 shift point. I have a SS3600 converter. I don't activate until after the burn-out. That should spray on the 1-2 shift, correct?? Are you saying it must fall below 3600 on the 1-2, because I doubt it does??
Last edited by ragtopz28; Dec 24, 2013 at 07:36 AM.
Teching In
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From: SE of Pittsburgh, PA
No, just the upper set point of the window switch. Can you log and be certain you go over 6300? Just for the heck of it, lower your set points and jumper out your wot switch or change your tps setting. Sorry not too familiar with the Trick ws. But then disconnect the n2o line and vent to the air. If a wet system, put a 2 liter bottle on the fuel line from the solenoid. That way you can check everything yourself. Just a small engine rev in park or neutral should do it.
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Thanks badbubba, you were correct on the shift point (time to talk to my tuner). It was shifting out of 1st gear before 6300. I lowered ws to 5300 and took it for a spin. It definitely hit on the 1-2 and shifted into third around 6300?? (I guess the nitrous made it hold longer??) I have no way of logging, so must try to figure out where it consistently shifts out of 1st to play at the track until I can get back with tuner.
Last edited by ragtopz28; Dec 26, 2013 at 09:20 AM.
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Update...went 11.11 @ 125 on the 100 shot. WS set at 4,000 - 6,100 (therefore nitrous hit @ 50-60' mark to baby the 10 bolt). Shitty 1.70 60' in +1200 DA, full weight+.
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