Thoughts on My Nitrous Install
Thoughts on My Nitrous Install Brief overview. 402LS2, should be 525-550 rwhp NA.
90mm Nitrous Outlet dual stage plate, NOS dual stage Mini Progressive controller, -4 feed line, 10lb bottle with heater, Full throttle Timing Tuner, Custom switch plate.
When master power is turned on, the bottle heater automatically turns on due to the system being controlled by a relay and dedicated fuse panel.
I will plumb the rest when I get the engine back in. The big ball of wires coming from the trans tunnel will go to the switch plate when I make it. It will have "master power, purge, opener" buttons and a pressure gauge- hidden in the ash tray compartment.
Fuel will be plumbed from a "T" fitting before the "Y" fitting that feeds the rails- all before the FPR to maintain consistent fuel pressure.
I haven't quite decided on the solenoids yet. The bottle heater will be controlled by a pressure switch and will eventually put the Zex nitrous level gauge on just because.
Still have some work to do yet, as well as making it pretty lol
90mm Nitrous Outlet dual stage plate, NOS dual stage Mini Progressive controller, -4 feed line, 10lb bottle with heater, Full throttle Timing Tuner, Custom switch plate.
When master power is turned on, the bottle heater automatically turns on due to the system being controlled by a relay and dedicated fuse panel.
I will plumb the rest when I get the engine back in. The big ball of wires coming from the trans tunnel will go to the switch plate when I make it. It will have "master power, purge, opener" buttons and a pressure gauge- hidden in the ash tray compartment.
Fuel will be plumbed from a "T" fitting before the "Y" fitting that feeds the rails- all before the FPR to maintain consistent fuel pressure.
I haven't quite decided on the solenoids yet. The bottle heater will be controlled by a pressure switch and will eventually put the Zex nitrous level gauge on just because.
Still have some work to do yet, as well as making it pretty lol
the fuse block is powered by the relay. It is a 40A relay so I will only need 1. The fuse block is dedicated to the nitrous system. The master power switch energizes the relay. Well, the fuse on the right is not relay powered. That 1 is for the bottle opener which I decided not to power thru a relay to simplify the wiring. I have another relay sitting around if I decide to power the opener with a relay.
The items powered by the 4 fuses on the right are:
- bottle heater
- nitrous level gauge
- nitrous pressure gauge
- fuse block main power
I probably will end up putting the opener on a relay down the road, but I dunno.
The items powered by the 4 fuses on the right are:
- bottle heater
- nitrous level gauge
- nitrous pressure gauge
- fuse block main power
I probably will end up putting the opener on a relay down the road, but I dunno.
going to start at a 100shot and work my way up from there. I can go up to 250 on the -4 supply line I have. Pretty much how ever much I need (up to 250) to run back to back 9.x's lol. I have thought about going up to a '6 feed line because the dual stage plate can do (i believe) dual 400s but I really doubt I will even need to spray 250 to get there. I won't be spraying until 2nd gear until I get my drive train fortified.
I eventually want to upgrade it to a dual stage system, 100 out of the hole and another 150 on top of it come 2nd gear. My rotating assy is good for 1000 so I will have room to play. We will see.
I eventually want to upgrade it to a dual stage system, 100 out of the hole and another 150 on top of it come 2nd gear. My rotating assy is good for 1000 so I will have room to play. We will see.
the fuse block is powered by the relay. It is a 40A relay so I will only need 1. The fuse block is dedicated to the nitrous system. The master power switch energizes the relay. Well, the fuse on the right is not relay powered. That 1 is for the bottle opener which I decided not to power thru a relay to simplify the wiring. I have another relay sitting around if I decide to power the opener with a relay.
The items powered by the 4 fuses on the right are:
- bottle heater
- nitrous level gauge
- nitrous pressure gauge
- fuse block main power
I probably will end up putting the opener on a relay down the road, but I dunno.
The items powered by the 4 fuses on the right are:
- bottle heater
- nitrous level gauge
- nitrous pressure gauge
- fuse block main power
I probably will end up putting the opener on a relay down the road, but I dunno.
nothing came with my kit as I didn't get 1. I traded my old LS1 short block for the bottle, bottle opener, nozzle (that I am not using), bottle mount, and bottle heater. Bought my plate "used" (shows no signs of being installed) off a forum, and everything else was new and bought separately.
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Verdad Gallardo Now going with 2 stages. probably 100+150 (or how ever much the 2nd stage will go). Got an incredible deal on my solenoids. 2x nitrous, 2x fuel, 2x billet rails, 16x braided lines for direct port, 1x purge solenoid - all for $300 and all Nitrous Outlet. i am also moving my supply line and putting it in the empty slot between the EVAP and fuel line.
Fabbed up an temporary switch panel to get me by until I make my permanent one. That 1 will have either an aluminum or carbon fiber backing with billet aluminum switches. Here is the temporary switch panel:
Fabbed up an temporary switch panel to get me by until I make my permanent one. That 1 will have either an aluminum or carbon fiber backing with billet aluminum switches. Here is the temporary switch panel:
Your putting the bottle in the well also I see. Be careful with the heat build up in that area. Hook up only at the track. I just posted about how I blew my press relief while driving to track. 7 lbs into the rear compartment while driving. Oh yea! I see you ran the tube external. I did the under carpet, door runner base board tunneling to bring it out through the dash behind the battery.
all the wiring is external. I am also going to put in a blow off tube going out under the car as well. I dunno if I will even have the bottle in the car when I am not at the track lol.
I would run the heater on a seperat switch. Sometimes it takes a lil while to get the pressure up with a heater. That way your nitrous isn't always armed jut to warm your bottle. U can also leave it on while sitting around getting ready to race. That way u can keep a eye on it or kill it if something happened.
