I was wondering what the AFR should look like for a Dry shot. Should it be 12.5 NA and 12.7/9 on the bottle or 12.7/9 na.

I made a dyno pull on my ca with a 100 shot yesterday and wanted to bump up to atleast a 125 shot but did not like how the Air/fuel looked from 2600-5000.
http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...sort=1&thecat=

I would like to get it to 12.8 all the way accross! anyone know how to do so?

Buy the way the car is a 2001 SS, with a hotcam, TTS long tubes, LID,160 stat, 5177 kit, and a 6600 limmiter.

The only changes that have been made are,
Cat over temp dissabled
6600 limmiter
IAC x 110%
timing from 2700 @ .56 Gms/Cyl up decreased buy 3*
MAFx 102%

Any Ideas?

Thanks guys

 

The A/F shouldn't be dramatically different on the bottle. I do know that I just sprayed my kit at the track this weekend with NO JETS (about 150 shot) and didn't detonate at all. I checked the plugs, and looked just fine.

 

Here is the graph off the bottle. note the diffrence. It is huge!!

http://www.norcal-ls1.com/main/multi...t=1&thecat=500

and I can not get answers on how to fix it!
Thanks

 

Hallz,
I have a MAFT I am getting ready to sell. I'm also part of norcal so it'd be a family deal. I go by srstereo on Norcal. Drop me a line if you need it.

 

I have Edit so I don't need the MAF-T But Others (1RedRum) needs one. We just installed a hotcam in his LT1 and a LS1 Hotcam in NossBoySS's car also.

But explain how changes in the MAF are going to change the inital surge the N2O will causes and leans it out. The NA curve I had was awsome!! nice and flat around 12.5.

I dont want it any richer than 12.5 on the big end just 13. or lower (12.3) at first and flatening out to 13.0-12.5 accross the rpm range.