need advice on my first nitrous set up!
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need advice on my first nitrous set up! Hey all,
I have a 99 ws6 m6. I have the motor at the machine shop now. Planning on doing forged internals. So far I have: 1 3/4 long tubes, off road you pipe, cat back, ls6 intake slp lid, 42 lb injectors, ms4 cam, ls6 stage 1 heads. Probably forgetting a few more small things.
Basically I would like to know what rotating assembly to go with. With or without forged crank. Do I use factory head gaskets? I already have arp head bolts. I'd like to safely shoot a 150 shot. Car will be driven on the street as well as at the track (hard). Will be doing a Ford 9 soon with 3.90s.
Also, I don't know much about tuning software needed. Does the necessary equipment usually come with the kit. I worry about all the tuning stuff because I keep hearing people say " just don't miss a gear, it'll blow for sure"
any input appreciated. sponsor and vendors welcome to show me what you have and suggest for my setup. I'm not made of money but I want to do things right the first time. Thanks in advance.
I have a 99 ws6 m6. I have the motor at the machine shop now. Planning on doing forged internals. So far I have: 1 3/4 long tubes, off road you pipe, cat back, ls6 intake slp lid, 42 lb injectors, ms4 cam, ls6 stage 1 heads. Probably forgetting a few more small things.
Basically I would like to know what rotating assembly to go with. With or without forged crank. Do I use factory head gaskets? I already have arp head bolts. I'd like to safely shoot a 150 shot. Car will be driven on the street as well as at the track (hard). Will be doing a Ford 9 soon with 3.90s.
Also, I don't know much about tuning software needed. Does the necessary equipment usually come with the kit. I worry about all the tuning stuff because I keep hearing people say " just don't miss a gear, it'll blow for sure"
any input appreciated. sponsor and vendors welcome to show me what you have and suggest for my setup. I'm not made of money but I want to do things right the first time. Thanks in advance.
What engine? LS1? Most stock cranks will hold upwards of 1000 horse, rods and pistons should do well for you. And depending on what engine you have alot of people just use an oem mls gasket.
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LS1 Gen 3. It's not the original motor but I bought it new from GM as a stock replacement about 3 years ago. So I'm assuming it's the Gen 3
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From: Wichita falls Texas
Hey all,
I have a 99 ws6 m6. I have the motor at the machine shop now. Planning on doing forged internals. So far I have: 1 3/4 long tubes, off road you pipe, cat back, ls6 intake slp lid, 42 lb injectors, ms4 cam, ls6 stage 1 heads. Probably forgetting a few more small things.
Basically I would like to know what rotating assembly to go with. With or without forged crank. Do I use factory head gaskets? I already have arp head bolts. I'd like to safely shoot a 150 shot. Car will be driven on the street as well as at the track (hard). Will be doing a Ford 9 soon with 3.90s.
Also, I don't know much about tuning software needed. Does the necessary equipment usually come with the kit. I worry about all the tuning stuff because I keep hearing people say " just don't miss a gear, it'll blow for sure"
any input appreciated. sponsor and vendors welcome to show me what you have and suggest for my setup. I'm not made of money but I want to do things right the first time. Thanks in advance.
I have a 99 ws6 m6. I have the motor at the machine shop now. Planning on doing forged internals. So far I have: 1 3/4 long tubes, off road you pipe, cat back, ls6 intake slp lid, 42 lb injectors, ms4 cam, ls6 stage 1 heads. Probably forgetting a few more small things.
Basically I would like to know what rotating assembly to go with. With or without forged crank. Do I use factory head gaskets? I already have arp head bolts. I'd like to safely shoot a 150 shot. Car will be driven on the street as well as at the track (hard). Will be doing a Ford 9 soon with 3.90s.
Also, I don't know much about tuning software needed. Does the necessary equipment usually come with the kit. I worry about all the tuning stuff because I keep hearing people say " just don't miss a gear, it'll blow for sure"
any input appreciated. sponsor and vendors welcome to show me what you have and suggest for my setup. I'm not made of money but I want to do things right the first time. Thanks in advance.
Shouldn't really be an issue adding 150 to your current setup. If you are going to do rods/pistons I would go with a set Wiseco pistons and they also sell rods. Definitely wouldn't be too worried about an aftermarket crank if you are only looking to hit 150 on it.
We use HP tuners on all of our stuff, and you could use the lnc-2000 lingenfelter box to pull timing on the fly, and only when the nitrous system is armed, that way the car isn't a pig on motor.
We make an RPM window switch that you wire into a coil to prevent you from hurting anything when you miss a shift. It allows you to set a minimum and maximum RPM for the nitrous to come on and cut off at. Our's also controls TPS/WOT.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/18959-...-required.html
Here is a link to our plate system that will make for a clean install and get the job done performance wise.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20935-...ut-bottle.html
If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Garrett
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Shouldn't really be an issue adding 150 to your current setup. If you are going to do rods/pistons I would go with a set Wiseco pistons and they also sell rods. Definitely wouldn't be too worried about an aftermarket crank if you are only looking to hit 150 on it.
We use HP tuners on all of our stuff, and you could use the lnc-2000 lingenfelter box to pull timing on the fly, and only when the nitrous system is armed, that way the car isn't a pig on motor.
We make an RPM window switch that you wire into a coil to prevent you from hurting anything when you miss a shift. It allows you to set a minimum and maximum RPM for the nitrous to come on and cut off at. Our's also controls TPS/WOT.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/18959-...-required.html
Here is a link to our plate system that will make for a clean install and get the job done performance wise.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20935-...ut-bottle.html
If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Garrett
We use HP tuners on all of our stuff, and you could use the lnc-2000 lingenfelter box to pull timing on the fly, and only when the nitrous system is armed, that way the car isn't a pig on motor.
We make an RPM window switch that you wire into a coil to prevent you from hurting anything when you miss a shift. It allows you to set a minimum and maximum RPM for the nitrous to come on and cut off at. Our's also controls TPS/WOT.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/18959-...-required.html
Here is a link to our plate system that will make for a clean install and get the job done performance wise.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20935-...ut-bottle.html
If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Garrett
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From: Wichita falls Texas
Definitely want to change the plugs out to a BR7EF, gap at .034 thousandths. I would look into a Boost a Pump or new drop in unit being that the car has a cam and other mods. We have sprayed 200hp on a stock LS1. Stock though haha!
Factory head gaskets should be fine, if you have to replace them I would go with some LS9 head gaskets.
Thanks,
Garrett
Factory head gaskets should be fine, if you have to replace them I would go with some LS9 head gaskets.
Thanks,
Garrett
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Definitely want to change the plugs out to a BR7EF, gap at .034 thousandths. I would look into a Boost a Pump or new drop in unit being that the car has a cam and other mods. We have sprayed 200hp on a stock LS1. Stock though haha!
Factory head gaskets should be fine, if you have to replace them I would go with some LS9 head gaskets.
Thanks,
Garrett
Factory head gaskets should be fine, if you have to replace them I would go with some LS9 head gaskets.
Thanks,
Garrett
Is the lingenfelter box to have two tunes? One for N/A and one for spray? I have the engine apart now so I have to put new head gaskets either way. Would it be safe to say the ls9 gaskets would hold the pressure better than stock ls1, so go with ls9 anyway? Thanks
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The way the box works is it will only come on when the nitrous is armed. It piggybacks the ignition system to pull timing based on what you have it set up to pull. This eliminates the need to reflash or retune for nitrous.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
The LS9 gasket is probably the best OEM one you can get for boost/nitrous.Thanks,
Garrett
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As for the fuel booster, what would u recommend? I saw two different in line ones on the NX website for different ratings but they said the boost limits not hp. So would I need the 500 or 700 hp. And the regulator it says I would need, is that included in the NitrousExpress kit or do I get that separately? Thanks for all your help.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15004-...-methanol.html
This is the one you need if you plan on running factory pressure.
You could use this one but you will have to get low pressure jetting and run it on 8-10lb's flowing pressure seperate of the car system.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15003-...-gasoline.html
If you are going to run a seperate bung out of the factory tank and mount the pump inline, either one of those would work for what you are doing, and as far as a regulator for that, the Aeromotive 13301 would be the 55psi one, and our standard billet regulator you can run at 8-10lbs like I said.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15952-...ure-gauge.html
Honestly, for 150, you may be able to just pull it off the fuel rail as long as you have a big enough fuel pump in the tank.
Thanks,
Garrett
This is the one you need if you plan on running factory pressure.
You could use this one but you will have to get low pressure jetting and run it on 8-10lb's flowing pressure seperate of the car system.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15003-...-gasoline.html
If you are going to run a seperate bung out of the factory tank and mount the pump inline, either one of those would work for what you are doing, and as far as a regulator for that, the Aeromotive 13301 would be the 55psi one, and our standard billet regulator you can run at 8-10lbs like I said.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15952-...ure-gauge.html
Honestly, for 150, you may be able to just pull it off the fuel rail as long as you have a big enough fuel pump in the tank.
Thanks,
Garrett
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Teching In
Joined: May 2011
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http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15004-...-methanol.html
This is the one you need if you plan on running factory pressure.
You could use this one but you will have to get low pressure jetting and run it on 8-10lb's flowing pressure seperate of the car system.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15003-...-gasoline.html
If you are going to run a seperate bung out of the factory tank and mount the pump inline, either one of those would work for what you are doing, and as far as a regulator for that, the Aeromotive 13301 would be the 55psi one, and our standard billet regulator you can run at 8-10lbs like I said.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15952-...ure-gauge.html
Honestly, for 150, you may be able to just pull it off the fuel rail as long as you have a big enough fuel pump in the tank.
Thanks,
Garrett
This is the one you need if you plan on running factory pressure.
You could use this one but you will have to get low pressure jetting and run it on 8-10lb's flowing pressure seperate of the car system.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15003-...-gasoline.html
If you are going to run a seperate bung out of the factory tank and mount the pump inline, either one of those would work for what you are doing, and as far as a regulator for that, the Aeromotive 13301 would be the 55psi one, and our standard billet regulator you can run at 8-10lbs like I said.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15952-...ure-gauge.html
Honestly, for 150, you may be able to just pull it off the fuel rail as long as you have a big enough fuel pump in the tank.
Thanks,
Garrett
Ok sorry if I'm annoying, i just want to make sure i understand correctly. So areyou saying i could avoid these standalones or boosters if i just put a stronger fuel pump in place of the factory fuel pump in the gas tank? I already have an access panel cut to access pump so wouldn't take much to replace if that would be simpler. If that is the case what fuel pump should i go with?
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From: Wichita falls Texas
Ok sorry if I'm annoying, i just want to make sure i understand correctly. So areyou saying i could avoid these standalones or boosters if i just put a stronger fuel pump in place of the factory fuel pump in the gas tank? I already have an access panel cut to access pump so wouldn't take much to replace if that would be simpler. If that is the case what fuel pump should i go with?
Thanks,
Garrett
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OK so I got the call from my machine shop and now have to order my pistons. I called and they asked what compression I wanted to run. What is a good base line for pistons and rods for my cam now and the nitrous when I get it. I was told wiseco -3.2cc and callies rods. What compression should I be aiming for? Thanks.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
OK so I got the call from my machine shop and now have to order my pistons. I called and they asked what compression I wanted to run. What is a good base line for pistons and rods for my cam now and the nitrous when I get it. I was told wiseco -3.2cc and callies rods. What compression should I be aiming for? Thanks.
You could also enrich it with race fuel through the standalone setup and that will help alot when spraying.
Thanks,
Garrett