Compucar nitrous in a bag
10-25-2015, 07:49 AM
#2
You already know how well it worked for me on other platforms from your other post.
You will have some people post negatively about any dry kit and they will have valid points , with a wet kit you can step up the nitrous jetting and the fuel jetting together and be pretty sure your fueling needs will be met even if you have no way to substantiate it (no wideband) and your pcm will not need to be making up fueling like on a dry kit which over time if you spray a lot can influence your long term fueling trends/trims. Down the road if you get addicted to spray and you will lol wet becomes the better choice as the shot increases...
This being said you were asking in the other thread about adding a 50 dry to a bolt on car. ON a 80* day a 50 shot will be about the same as running without it on a 50@ day depending on plate or nozzle/tube system( bear with me just an example)
N2O= 1 part nitrogen(33.3%) 2 parts oxygen (66.6%) vs. air which is 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen 1% trace elements/argon etc... so the portion of intake charge is simply richer in oxygen increasing your density of oxygen , nitrous also comes out of a pressurized bottle very cold again increasing the density of the intake charge - the nitrogen percentage is actually less than regular air you are simply increasing the amount of oxygen delivered which is what turbos ,superchargers ,cams ,better heads etc... all do increase airflow which in turn increases oxygen ingested. All of these ways of adding oxygen to the intake charge should have a corresponding increase in fueling to maintain desired air fuel ratios (somewhere in the 12's if normally aspirated depending on your combo) some people look at nitrous as some type of exotic chemical and are scared of it , its simply a supercharger in a bottle..
When you spray dry with budget kits you have a couple common choices- a plate system where the nitrous is delivered via a plate between the throttle body and intake manifold , the maf sensor and the IAT sensor have no idea any extra intake volume or density is being ingested or that the charge is colder this way so it is best addressed with a "nitrous tune" where fueling is enriched when spraying and verified via wideband or reading spark plugs like before anyone knew what a wideband was if you don't have one.
I prefer to spray dry into the intake tract upstream of both the maf and the iat so they can see the extra/colder charge and can reference tables in the tune that will bump fueling naturally when they see this intake charge , even better is if you are able to tweak the tune knowing its going to see spray like using iat adder tables to bump fueling up when intake charge is below 30* - not likely your going to see 30* other than spraying during racing season lol. again verifying with a wideband is best but as long as your taking responsibility for what your doing this is a lot lower risk at a 50 shot level than some things I have knowingly done with spray in the past - if you burn it up by adding a 50 shot you already had a lean condition - has your car been tuned for your bolt ons ? if not you may be lean , a wideband would be a great investment even if you have no ability to tune it at this point, knowing your fueling is in range is something that will get more important as you mod further.
The other thing to know about spraying is that as shot get larger you will typically close spark plug gaps up and lower timing , typically around 2* for every 50 shot and gaps will need to be closed up to avoid spark blowout , on a 50 shot your not likely to have issues with either just trying to give you a full picture of what you need to be aware of ahead of the inevitable thing that is nitrous addiction lol
I bought my bottle in a bag used on a w body forum which is the primary platform I sprayed - non intercooled supercharged cars love nitrous..... $275 as I recall I think they are just under 400 new google search it or contact them direct , most of the same components could be used in building a wet system later as well.
If I were going to spray an engine I cared about in the 100-200 shot range I would run a wet , under 100 I would keep it simple and stay dry , over 100 shot if not sooner you may need to change to a nitrous specific convertor as well from posts I have read on here or you may blow through the convertor - typically the torque increase especially under the curve is greater that the hp increase on any given jet. I look forward to spraying this platform at some time in the future as well
You will have some people post negatively about any dry kit and they will have valid points , with a wet kit you can step up the nitrous jetting and the fuel jetting together and be pretty sure your fueling needs will be met even if you have no way to substantiate it (no wideband) and your pcm will not need to be making up fueling like on a dry kit which over time if you spray a lot can influence your long term fueling trends/trims. Down the road if you get addicted to spray and you will lol wet becomes the better choice as the shot increases...
This being said you were asking in the other thread about adding a 50 dry to a bolt on car. ON a 80* day a 50 shot will be about the same as running without it on a 50@ day depending on plate or nozzle/tube system( bear with me just an example)
N2O= 1 part nitrogen(33.3%) 2 parts oxygen (66.6%) vs. air which is 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen 1% trace elements/argon etc... so the portion of intake charge is simply richer in oxygen increasing your density of oxygen , nitrous also comes out of a pressurized bottle very cold again increasing the density of the intake charge - the nitrogen percentage is actually less than regular air you are simply increasing the amount of oxygen delivered which is what turbos ,superchargers ,cams ,better heads etc... all do increase airflow which in turn increases oxygen ingested. All of these ways of adding oxygen to the intake charge should have a corresponding increase in fueling to maintain desired air fuel ratios (somewhere in the 12's if normally aspirated depending on your combo) some people look at nitrous as some type of exotic chemical and are scared of it , its simply a supercharger in a bottle..
When you spray dry with budget kits you have a couple common choices- a plate system where the nitrous is delivered via a plate between the throttle body and intake manifold , the maf sensor and the IAT sensor have no idea any extra intake volume or density is being ingested or that the charge is colder this way so it is best addressed with a "nitrous tune" where fueling is enriched when spraying and verified via wideband or reading spark plugs like before anyone knew what a wideband was if you don't have one.
I prefer to spray dry into the intake tract upstream of both the maf and the iat so they can see the extra/colder charge and can reference tables in the tune that will bump fueling naturally when they see this intake charge , even better is if you are able to tweak the tune knowing its going to see spray like using iat adder tables to bump fueling up when intake charge is below 30* - not likely your going to see 30* other than spraying during racing season lol. again verifying with a wideband is best but as long as your taking responsibility for what your doing this is a lot lower risk at a 50 shot level than some things I have knowingly done with spray in the past - if you burn it up by adding a 50 shot you already had a lean condition - has your car been tuned for your bolt ons ? if not you may be lean , a wideband would be a great investment even if you have no ability to tune it at this point, knowing your fueling is in range is something that will get more important as you mod further.
The other thing to know about spraying is that as shot get larger you will typically close spark plug gaps up and lower timing , typically around 2* for every 50 shot and gaps will need to be closed up to avoid spark blowout , on a 50 shot your not likely to have issues with either just trying to give you a full picture of what you need to be aware of ahead of the inevitable thing that is nitrous addiction lol
I bought my bottle in a bag used on a w body forum which is the primary platform I sprayed - non intercooled supercharged cars love nitrous..... $275 as I recall I think they are just under 400 new google search it or contact them direct , most of the same components could be used in building a wet system later as well.
If I were going to spray an engine I cared about in the 100-200 shot range I would run a wet , under 100 I would keep it simple and stay dry , over 100 shot if not sooner you may need to change to a nitrous specific convertor as well from posts I have read on here or you may blow through the convertor - typically the torque increase especially under the curve is greater that the hp increase on any given jet. I look forward to spraying this platform at some time in the future as well
Last edited by murphinator; 10-25-2015 at 07:57 AM.
10-31-2015, 12:47 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Murph is way over the top here in what you need to know imo.lol
The nitrous in a bag is ok for the small shot.
It's cheap and efficient for what it give's.
But don't waste your time, because I can promise you that you will want more then what it can deliver the first time you spray.
Nitrous will give you the best bang per dollar spent, period.
So hold off until you get enough saved for a real kit, where you can spray 100-150 shot and really get your money's worth.
You will thank me later.
The nitrous in a bag is ok for the small shot.
It's cheap and efficient for what it give's.
But don't waste your time, because I can promise you that you will want more then what it can deliver the first time you spray.
Nitrous will give you the best bang per dollar spent, period.
So hold off until you get enough saved for a real kit, where you can spray 100-150 shot and really get your money's worth.
You will thank me later.
11-02-2015, 09:12 AM
#4
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1 think i like about compucar. When i was piecing together my sytem i had a small compucar and NOS nitrous solenoids i was going to use for a purge. They were both leaking. So after staying on hold with Holley for 15 minutes I hung up and called compucar. Guy answered the phone and I was asking him about parts and he said that all of their noids had a lifetime warranty. Just had to cover shipping and handling($20). Its the only piece of compucar stuff I have but worked out well
