I have a NOS kit on my truck (4.8 '02). I have 1 fogger nozzle run to my TB spacer.

Nitrous sprays good for a few seconds. Then the truck feels like it "loads up". It will not gain RPM and makes a brrrrr sound. So I let off the button and after the truck has a few seconds to "clear out" it will run fine NA, but you must wait a while before you spray it again.

I am running a 100ish shot. I have NGK TR6 plugs and they look fine. Not lean or rich looking. I also have a Predator programmer and have 3* timing taken out.

Bottle was full with pressure between 800-900 psi.

Any ideas at all? List them all I'll give anything a shot.

 

sounds like you are blowing the spark out i would check the gap on your plugs

 

Are u runnning stock plugs????????

 

He said TR6's.

 

Gapped at .035"

 

Any other ideas?

 

sounds like your going really rich, stuck partially open Nitrous noid, dirty filter or something like that.
So you have to hold the pushbutton down, rather than an arming switch and WOT?
How far away is the nozzle from the TB Blade? Straight shot to the TB or is it angled towards a side?

 

These awesome setups always yield great results don't they. I would bet on a fualty noid.

 

The nozzle is behind the TB in my spacer. It is pointed down the intake in the "airstream". Arming switch and pushbutton used.

Are solenoids rebuildable? Where is the filer.

Not sure what you meant hellbents10. I guess your saying its my fault.

Thanks!

 

He said faulty solenoid.

 

Is this a dry kit or wet? If it's a wet kit, you need to run the nozzle before the T.B. If this is a wet kit and your nozzle is before the T.B., then I believe your running rich due to a couple factors. Your nitrous flow is incorrect, the fuel jets and nitrous jets are not matched up correctly or your nitrous is not flowing correctly to your jets.
If this is a dry kit then you should run your nozzle before the MAF.

 

There should be a small filter in at the Nitrous Solenoid. During install, its a good practice once everything is plumbed, to DC the line to the Nit Noid and crack the bottle open for a sec to blow out the line.
Wet kit plumbed before the TB, which would also place it before the spacer. The mixture needs a chance to vaporize for even distribution. If its a dry it you definately need the nozzle farther upsteam than that, it needs to be sprayed before the MAF or it wont register the air and not add the fuel, way too much nitrous and way little fuel is not good.
Noids are rebuildable. Assuming you have a wet kit, with WOT switch and Arming switch test step like this:
DC one noid, from electrical source and from mount (you want to isolate the noid being tested, dont want the other noid to give an audible click or vibrate making you think the one tested is good * I did this so I know how deceiveing it can be*), with the turn key on, arm the system, and holding the noid hit the WOT, listen for the clicking and feel the piston movement inside. Its an evident thing if its opening and closing. Then repeat for the opposite noid. If they are both clicking, nd you cn feel them clicking, then the pistons moving inside the chamber.
you can test the Nitrous filter by: open bottle valve, dc the line from the noid to the nozzle, holding away from you (or anyone else) turn key on and have a friend click the WOT switch. should send a rush of 900psi or so nitrous flowing out rapidly. If it doesnt shoot out, but the check the filter and work your way back.
another way is to dc the nozzle, bottle closed, holding in a very safe manner *is there one* click the WOT and watch for a spray of fuel. Then open bottle and watch for complete pattern spray.
Yes they are rebuildable, relatively easy and recommended for extreme use to do periodically.
Good luck.

 

Wet kit. So going into the TB spacer is a bad idea?

It ran fine on the dyno with same setup (in spacer).

If my nitrous was not flowing correctly, wouldn't I be running rich enough to show on the plugs?

MagicChicken, yeah I can read. I was referring to the first part of his post.

Thanks!