nitrous pros and cons?
the timing tricker can go both ways. but the one u use for nitrous makes it think the iat if very hot therefore pulling timing. Im not sure how you wire it up tho.
I gapped my plugs @ 39 and hope i dont have any problems out of the tnt 100 shot.
I gapped my plugs @ 39 and hope i dont have any problems out of the tnt 100 shot.
well iam planning on going with maibe a 75 shot, or a 100 shot, right now iam putting down like 360 with a cam, and iam adding heads cr 11.1 ( good for n20) hopefully will put me at like 420 or 410, and i know i need to pull timing so will a 100 shot be safe with that set up.
Well atleast for my engine, i know it won't be for my 10 bolt rear end lol
Well atleast for my engine, i know it won't be for my 10 bolt rear end lol
SS don't take this the wrong way but I disagree with a few things in your post. Here they are:
Besides pulled timing robbing power, you will also LOOSE power N/A by having to run colder plugs. Instead of a TR-55 gapped at .50-.55. You will have to use a colder plug like a TR-6 and gap it at .35 so the spark won't blow out.
In every dyno test I have done, I have not been able to see a power loss by going 1 or 2 steps colder in the spark plug. Maybe there is a small loss, but nothing I can see from the dyno sheets.
Then you have to worry about the plug fouling out from not using the nitrous often enough
If you are fouling plugs by driving NA then you must be setup to run a masive shot of nitrous or the car probably isn't tuned properly. Probably not a street car motor anymore. I spray a 300hp shot in my street car, it is a daily driver during the good weather months, and last year I only changed the plugs once, not because any of them fouled, just because I felt like it. I do check them periodically, and they have always been fine.
Again, I'm up for discussion on these points, but I am speaking from personal experince.
Vinny
Besides pulled timing robbing power, you will also LOOSE power N/A by having to run colder plugs. Instead of a TR-55 gapped at .50-.55. You will have to use a colder plug like a TR-6 and gap it at .35 so the spark won't blow out.
In every dyno test I have done, I have not been able to see a power loss by going 1 or 2 steps colder in the spark plug. Maybe there is a small loss, but nothing I can see from the dyno sheets.
Then you have to worry about the plug fouling out from not using the nitrous often enough
If you are fouling plugs by driving NA then you must be setup to run a masive shot of nitrous or the car probably isn't tuned properly. Probably not a street car motor anymore. I spray a 300hp shot in my street car, it is a daily driver during the good weather months, and last year I only changed the plugs once, not because any of them fouled, just because I felt like it. I do check them periodically, and they have always been fine.
Again, I'm up for discussion on these points, but I am speaking from personal experince.
Vinny
Originally Posted by SStolen
I'm still learning myself but this is what I've read, heard and been told. This is also only for people running 100 or bigger shots, not 50 or 75.
-It is NOT okay to run a 100 or 150 shot on top of a 400rwhp, cam only motor. If you're pushing 400 rwhp from only a cam, then your car IS going to require advanced timing and fuel changes.
-However, it is okay to run a 100 shot on a stock motor, just bolt it on and go. This is because the motor is already a little low on the timing side from the factory.
-Besides pulled timing robbing power, you will also LOOSE power N/A by having to run colder plugs. Instead of a TR-55 gapped at .50-.55. You will have to use a colder plug like a TR-6 and gap it at .35 so the spark won't blow out. Then you have to worry about the plug fouling out from not using the nitrous often enough. So filling the bottle in late December and not using until summer is probably not the best idea. I'm not sure about this but one veteran nitrous user told me he used his nitrous if only for a few seconds at least every week or 300 miles (whichever comes first) to keep his plugs clean. Like I said, I'm not saying I believe in it but he has been using nitrous since I was alive so....
-Another con to nitrous is that it is not maintenance free as someone posted earlier. Many guys on here will check there plugs after every nitrous outing. If you have a fouled plug and you spray for too long, say goodbye to that cylinder, unless it is forged. Fortunately, plugs aren't that hard to check as people say and you can get this done in half an hour after doing it a few times.
If any of this wrong or misleading please correct me. I want to make sure I have my facts straight.
So who here thinks its okay to run a 100 wet shot on top of a 400rwhp N/A motor like mine?
-It is NOT okay to run a 100 or 150 shot on top of a 400rwhp, cam only motor. If you're pushing 400 rwhp from only a cam, then your car IS going to require advanced timing and fuel changes.
-However, it is okay to run a 100 shot on a stock motor, just bolt it on and go. This is because the motor is already a little low on the timing side from the factory.
-Besides pulled timing robbing power, you will also LOOSE power N/A by having to run colder plugs. Instead of a TR-55 gapped at .50-.55. You will have to use a colder plug like a TR-6 and gap it at .35 so the spark won't blow out. Then you have to worry about the plug fouling out from not using the nitrous often enough. So filling the bottle in late December and not using until summer is probably not the best idea. I'm not sure about this but one veteran nitrous user told me he used his nitrous if only for a few seconds at least every week or 300 miles (whichever comes first) to keep his plugs clean. Like I said, I'm not saying I believe in it but he has been using nitrous since I was alive so....
-Another con to nitrous is that it is not maintenance free as someone posted earlier. Many guys on here will check there plugs after every nitrous outing. If you have a fouled plug and you spray for too long, say goodbye to that cylinder, unless it is forged. Fortunately, plugs aren't that hard to check as people say and you can get this done in half an hour after doing it a few times.
If any of this wrong or misleading please correct me. I want to make sure I have my facts straight.
So who here thinks its okay to run a 100 wet shot on top of a 400rwhp N/A motor like mine?
Good info Vinny. Good to hear that I won't be loosing hp when I switch to colder plugs. How often do you check your plugs? Do you do it after so long or only after you use the nitrous every two or ten times?
Just to clarify my original statement. When I say you can not run a 100 or 150 shot on a 400 rwhp motor, I mean you can not just bolt it up and run. My intention in the statement is that you need proper tuning for fuel and timing changes to run the nitrous efficiently and keep the motor safe. I'm not saying you won't see a gain, but you wouldn't be getting all 100 or 150 out of the kit. knock and running lean will kill the engine after awhile.
Hey Vinny, what do you think about running a window switch for the nitrous and fuel seperately? I was going to run two switches so that I could turn on the fuel 100 rpm sooner than the nitrous. In many of the nitrous dyno's I have seen, there is always a huge lean spike at the beginning of the run when they hit the bottle. I know running the fuel a little sooner would net a rich spike but I thought it would be safer.
Are you using a direct port kit for that 300 shot? Damn!
Just to clarify my original statement. When I say you can not run a 100 or 150 shot on a 400 rwhp motor, I mean you can not just bolt it up and run. My intention in the statement is that you need proper tuning for fuel and timing changes to run the nitrous efficiently and keep the motor safe. I'm not saying you won't see a gain, but you wouldn't be getting all 100 or 150 out of the kit. knock and running lean will kill the engine after awhile.
Hey Vinny, what do you think about running a window switch for the nitrous and fuel seperately? I was going to run two switches so that I could turn on the fuel 100 rpm sooner than the nitrous. In many of the nitrous dyno's I have seen, there is always a huge lean spike at the beginning of the run when they hit the bottle. I know running the fuel a little sooner would net a rich spike but I thought it would be safer.
Are you using a direct port kit for that 300 shot? Damn!
Staging Lane
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From: florida
the best part about n2o is you can have a stock car with all the good things about a stock car like normal idle, no $4000 plus wroth of part and tuning. And for a very reasonable amount of cash add a 100hp and go hit some ***. Just don’t get greedy, that’s the hard part.
Staging Lane
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From: florida
Originally Posted by SStolen
Hey Vinny, what do you think about running a window switch for the nitrous and fuel seperately? I was going to run two switches so that I could turn on the fuel 100 rpm sooner than the nitrous. In many of the nitrous dyno's I have seen, there is always a huge lean spike at the beginning of the run when they hit the bottle. I know running the fuel a little sooner would net a rich spike but I thought it would be safer.
I have a dry kit on this car and get a bit of a lean spike I never got on wet kit
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
High horsepower (anything over 150). I know we have sprayed our test car with 250 no timing retard. But that is not safe. Not recommend and should not be done so do not do it. Unless you have good gas, and your computer can self retard under detination.
Ricky
Ricky
I'm self retarded when someone detonates me, not my car.
Lot's of good stuff on the table here folks...
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From: Boulder, Colorado
Last Friday I changed out the plugs and wires on my Z06 (took less than 1 hour, taking my time... 
)
I went with the TR6s in anticipation of a nitrous install. Saturday it dyno'd stock except for a Halltech Stinger intake at 349/349 on a Dynojet. The cooler plugs seemed to work just fine...
)I went with the TR6s in anticipation of a nitrous install. Saturday it dyno'd stock except for a Halltech Stinger intake at 349/349 on a Dynojet. The cooler plugs seemed to work just fine...
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From: Boring Green, Kentucky
Originally Posted by TonyJ
Last Friday I changed out the plugs and wires on my Z06 (took less than 1 hour, taking my time... )
I went with the TR6s in anticipation of a nitrous install. Saturday it dyno'd stock except for a Halltech Stinger intake at 349/349 on a Dynojet. The cooler plugs seemed to work just fine...
)I went with the TR6s in anticipation of a nitrous install. Saturday it dyno'd stock except for a Halltech Stinger intake at 349/349 on a Dynojet. The cooler plugs seemed to work just fine...
The lean spike:
I don't care for the lean spikes either. There are cheaper ways to eliminate the lean spike than 2 window switches.
You can put a time delay realy on the nitrous solenoid, (Dynotune just came out with a nice new one) that will give the fuel a "head start". Time delay realys are inexpensive and easy to adjust.
I also read a really cool idea on this bord a while ago, haven't tried it yet but it sounds like a great idea.
Someone put a fpss after the fuel solenoid, and used it to activate the nitrous solenoid. This does two things, 1- it is a nice fail safe device which will never allow your nit sol to open if the fuel sol did not. It also will delay the nit sol activation which should reduce/ or eliminate the lean spike.
I don't care for the lean spikes either. There are cheaper ways to eliminate the lean spike than 2 window switches.
You can put a time delay realy on the nitrous solenoid, (Dynotune just came out with a nice new one) that will give the fuel a "head start". Time delay realys are inexpensive and easy to adjust.
I also read a really cool idea on this bord a while ago, haven't tried it yet but it sounds like a great idea.
Someone put a fpss after the fuel solenoid, and used it to activate the nitrous solenoid. This does two things, 1- it is a nice fail safe device which will never allow your nit sol to open if the fuel sol did not. It also will delay the nit sol activation which should reduce/ or eliminate the lean spike.
Originally Posted by SStolen
Good info Vinny. Good to hear that I won't be loosing hp when I switch to colder plugs. How often do you check your plugs? Do you do it after so long or only after you use the nitrous every two or ten times?
Just to clarify my original statement. When I say you can not run a 100 or 150 shot on a 400 rwhp motor, I mean you can not just bolt it up and run. My intention in the statement is that you need proper tuning for fuel and timing changes to run the nitrous efficiently and keep the motor safe. I'm not saying you won't see a gain, but you wouldn't be getting all 100 or 150 out of the kit. knock and running lean will kill the engine after awhile.
Hey Vinny, what do you think about running a window switch for the nitrous and fuel seperately? I was going to run two switches so that I could turn on the fuel 100 rpm sooner than the nitrous. In many of the nitrous dyno's I have seen, there is always a huge lean spike at the beginning of the run when they hit the bottle. I know running the fuel a little sooner would net a rich spike but I thought it would be safer.
Are you using a direct port kit for that 300 shot? Damn!
Just to clarify my original statement. When I say you can not run a 100 or 150 shot on a 400 rwhp motor, I mean you can not just bolt it up and run. My intention in the statement is that you need proper tuning for fuel and timing changes to run the nitrous efficiently and keep the motor safe. I'm not saying you won't see a gain, but you wouldn't be getting all 100 or 150 out of the kit. knock and running lean will kill the engine after awhile.
Hey Vinny, what do you think about running a window switch for the nitrous and fuel seperately? I was going to run two switches so that I could turn on the fuel 100 rpm sooner than the nitrous. In many of the nitrous dyno's I have seen, there is always a huge lean spike at the beginning of the run when they hit the bottle. I know running the fuel a little sooner would net a rich spike but I thought it would be safer.
Are you using a direct port kit for that 300 shot? Damn!
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Originally Posted by 860 Performance
The lean spike:
Someone put a fpss after the fuel solenoid, and used it to activate the nitrous solenoid. This does two things, 1- it is a nice fail safe device which will never allow your nit sol to open if the fuel sol did not. It also will delay the nit sol activation which should reduce/ or eliminate the lean spike.
Someone put a fpss after the fuel solenoid, and used it to activate the nitrous solenoid. This does two things, 1- it is a nice fail safe device which will never allow your nit sol to open if the fuel sol did not. It also will delay the nit sol activation which should reduce/ or eliminate the lean spike.
Ricky
Last edited by NXRICKY; Feb 3, 2005 at 10:01 AM.
That is exactly it.
Ricky,
have you ever tried this set-up? I haven't yet but it looks like it should work great plus its simple and failsafe.
Ricky,
have you ever tried this set-up? I haven't yet but it looks like it should work great plus its simple and failsafe.
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
I think this is what your talking about. Let me know just banged it not sure if this is what yall might want. I put to relays in since the amp draw on the nitrous is so high.
Ricky
Ricky
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Not sure on delay time. That will change depending on how long the line is from the fuel noid to the nozzle.
So if you want more delay make the line longer but that will only delay when the nitrous turns on.
But it should work just fine. Hey just created a new part number
I will add this image to another link.
Ricky
So if you want more delay make the line longer but that will only delay when the nitrous turns on.
But it should work just fine. Hey just created a new part number
I will add this image to another link.
Ricky
Originally Posted by zamboxl
well iam planning on going with maibe a 75 shot, or a 100 shot, right now iam putting down like 360 with a cam, and iam adding heads cr 11.1 ( good for n20) hopefully will put me at like 420 or 410, and i know i need to pull timing so will a 100 shot be safe with that set up.
Well atleast for my engine, i know it won't be for my 10 bolt rear end lol
Well atleast for my engine, i know it won't be for my 10 bolt rear end lol
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Not sure on delay time. That will change depending on how long the line is from the fuel noid to the nozzle.
So if you want more delay make the line longer but that will only delay when the nitrous turns on.
But it should work just fine. Hey just created a new part number
I will add this image to another link.
Ricky
So if you want more delay make the line longer but that will only delay when the nitrous turns on.
But it should work just fine. Hey just created a new part number
I will add this image to another link.
Ricky
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by zamboxl
????????? anybody??
Ricky
Staging Lane
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This is an exceptional thread!!! Only thing I would add that no one has said is...can you see anything cooler than pullin up next to what ever on the track lookin next to you at your cocky and confident opponent...That same confidence kinda shrivels up when the big white cloud comes out of the hood. Nitrous is a great power adder if you used with common sense and moderation. As great as the LS1/LS2/LS6 power plant is it was not nessicarily ment to have a 250hp hit of spray bolted on it with no preparation. A guy at a local shop told me a gentleman came in with a 215,000 mile LS1 T/A with bolt ons and a 100 shot that he had had since the car was new over 100 bottles ran through the car. This little story kinda proves if nitrous is used in moderation and not jetted up everytime someone thats a little faster pulls up next to you...you will be just fine and completely safe. Only other tip is dont spare any expense for safety equipment (WINDOW SWITCH!!! fpss, bottle heater, purge, etc..) the extra money upfront to ensure safety is going to pay itself off in the fun and memories you will have and also you wont have to spend that 5K for a rebuild either.
