OK finally got the kit installed and have everything working fine. Took the car out tonight since it was nice and tried the juice out. First of all I am going to say wow. That thing puts down some power. Pulls like a mo fo and feels great. I love the feeling. OK bad part, the first run I only took it up to the end of 2nd gear because it shut off way too early. Well then I popped my hood and checked the window switch and I it turn off at like 4800. Well I moved it up to 5400. 2nd run, ran perfect all 4 gears stayed on the whole time and was a wild ride. Well when i ran it two more times it stuttered at around 45-4800 RPM. THe last run it felt like it was just completely shutting off. THe 3rd run it felt as if it was just surging really bad then the last run it just seemed to shut off and then kick back on. Does anyone know what this could be???? Oh have two more questions too, how do I adjust the clutch on a remote bottle opener?? It wont open the bottle if it is closed too tight and then it wont shut it all the way and it is staying open. Also, my purge valve is tied into the side of the nitrous solenoid and it was leaking nitrous when I first opened the bottle. Any Ideas???? THanks in advance.

 

Low fuel pressure?

 

Are you using a fuel pressure safety switch?

 

Yes I am using a FPSS and a MSD digital window switch. I am going to go over all the electrical connections tonight and then I am also going to readjust the WOT micro switch to make sure it is engaging. I thought maybe it was the bottle pressure but it was still in the high yellow when I finished the run. Anyone have any other ideas???


OH WAIT, you know it was doing this on my mustang too. It would cut out at higher RPM's. Could it be the same thing??? I used the same kit on the stang.

How about the purge solenoid? Anyone know why it was leaking when I opened the bottle? It was leaking out of the front of it where the nitrous comes out when you purge. It was just steadily coming out of there. Im talking about where the tube connects, the actual connection is where it is coming from.

THanks everyone

 

Make sure you don't have any leaks.

What was your bottle pressure during this entire time?
If the bottle pressure was dropping you'd go very rich with a wet kit and cause that surging.

If bottle pressure was fine during those runs, then pull all your plugs and check them closely.

 

i checked for leaks when i first installed it and i had a leak on the purge solenoid. so i took off the fitting and put a plug there for now. i didnt notice any other leaks. the bottle pressure was ok the whole time. never dropped below the yellow and right before the run was mid green. the plugs are ngk tr6's gapped at .035. ill check those tomorrow when i have it up on the lift.


NXRICKY- any suggestions????

 

One more question, how come it didn't do it all the time?? THe first run I had it worked flawlessly and then the 2nd and 3rd run is when it started cutting out. Any ideas???

 

Ok here is where I suggest starting.
First weigh the bottle make sure it is full of nitrous.It was 14.5lb empty and 24.5 full for a 10lb bottle.If it only has a pound or two in it that is your problem.
Second you may need to adjust the fuel pressure safety switch.
There are instructions on NXs web site on how to adjust the remote opener.
HERE IS THE LINK..
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/opener.pdf

On the purge solenoid there may be a piece of trash in it.Sometimes when they are new I have also see them leak alittle untill you purge it and it will stop.
Ricky did a post here a week or two on how to take the solenoids apart for inspection.I looked for it but did not see it maybe some one will post it for us....

You can also just send that solenoid into NX.Call 1-888-463-2781 and speek to Josh.

Check those things and let me know if you need any further help.
Dave

 

Was your bottle mounted securely angled and pointed in the correct way?
Did it move around after the first run.

 

Sounds like the FPSS, I know of many who remove it just because of problems they have had. Im not saying you shouldnt have it, but for testing purposes you may want to bypass it and make a pass to see if it still does it. If it runs good, then you will isolate the problem to the FPSS.

Goodluck.

 

Im really thinking it is low bottle fill.Mostly because the problem got worse.Which tells me that he probley used quite a bit in the install process checking purge,The leak etc.Not two mention that he ran it several times.It always go fast on the first time with problem shooting.
Dave.

The fuel pressuse safety switch would be the next step.Some people just do not understand how to adjust this switch so they get fustrated and by pass it.
Dave

 

Dave rocks

That is all.

 

I Had The Bottle Filled Right Before The Run. So I Dont Think That Is It. The B0ttle Is Mounting With The Front Facing The Front Of The Car. It Is Almost Horizontal With Just A Little Bit Of A Tilt To It. To Check The Pressure Switch Im Goign To Need A Fuel Pressure Gauge Right???? Ill Do Taht Tomorrow. As Far As The Purge Solenoid. I Will Have The Purge Lines In On Mon Or Tues I Hope, After I Hook Them Up Ill Test It And See If It Still Leaks Out Of The Front Of It. Thanks For All The Help And I Will Keep Everyone Updated.

 

OK sorry about the horrible typing and grammar on the last post. I tried to get it done fast.

 

One thing I like to do when trouble shooting a system is to temporarly wire in a light inside the car that is tapped into the solenoid power wires. That way you can see if something (fpss, window, etc) is killing the power to the solenoid.

Just my two cents.

 

How long between passes? I'm with Dave sounds just like a low/empty bottle to me. If you pruge solenoid is leaking and you don't close the bottle it's losing N20 the whole time your sitting there. Fix the purge solenoid and I bet it goes away.

 

Like 1 or 2 min in between passes. OK this was not done on the strip, it was on an abandoned airfield where I live. I fixed the leak on the purge because I took off the fitting and put a plug in it. I have the purge tied into the side of the solenoid instead of tieing it inline with the nitrous feed line. Get what i mean??

 

If you decide to mess with your FPSS, I'd personally test it to see where it trips out, then maybe adjust it. Don't just bypass it. If it's really doing what it's supposed to, and your fuel pressure really is dropping, you could really do some damage by just bypassing it.

By the way, I re-read your first post and it doesn't mention what sized shot you're running? If it's a larger shot, maybe back down the shot and see if it goes away.

 

im running a 100 shot.

 

Ok, not the purge solenoid. My next guess would be the N20 solenoid wiring is messed up causing it to be itermittent. The same thing happened to me, my car kept getting slower, we checked the solenoids several times and found the N20 solenoid would activate sometimes and sometimes not. Wound up being the wiring connector was loose. Check your ground also.