Harlan 2-step Plan of attack
03-03-2005, 10:35 AM
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Harlan 2-step Plan of attack Alright I am tired of paying people to install my stuff so I am going to give this a try.
Car: 01 Corvette 6 speed, NX 100 shot installed with a window and a WOT switch on the gas pedal.
Plan on installing a new relay in WOT path
On relay Harlan yellow wire to 85--12V to 86--30 WOT wire from gas pedal 87--WOT wire to NX relay
Tap in clutch release on the PCM #35 on blue connector.
Switch to activated I am going to use my purge botton.
So..Right or Wrong?? Plan on starting tomorrow. thanks for the input.
Car: 01 Corvette 6 speed, NX 100 shot installed with a window and a WOT switch on the gas pedal.
Plan on installing a new relay in WOT path
On relay Harlan yellow wire to 85--12V to 86--30 WOT wire from gas pedal 87--WOT wire to NX relay
Tap in clutch release on the PCM #35 on blue connector.
Switch to activated I am going to use my purge botton.
So..Right or Wrong?? Plan on starting tomorrow. thanks for the input.
03-03-2005, 10:44 AM
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Could you send me the Harlan drawing I would like to see it if possible. The I would like to draw what you have typed.
Ricky
Ricky
Originally Posted by joshz06
Alright I am tired of paying people to install my stuff so I am going to give this a try.
Car: 01 Corvette 6 speed, NX 100 shot installed with a window and a WOT switch on the gas pedal.
Plan on installing a new relay in WOT path
On relay Harlan yellow wire to 85--12V to 86--30 WOT wire from gas pedal 87--WOT wire to NX relay
Tap in clutch release on the PCM #35 on blue connector.
Switch to activated I am going to use my purge botton.
So..Right or Wrong?? Plan on starting tomorrow. thanks for the input.
Car: 01 Corvette 6 speed, NX 100 shot installed with a window and a WOT switch on the gas pedal.
Plan on installing a new relay in WOT path
On relay Harlan yellow wire to 85--12V to 86--30 WOT wire from gas pedal 87--WOT wire to NX relay
Tap in clutch release on the PCM #35 on blue connector.
Switch to activated I am going to use my purge botton.
So..Right or Wrong?? Plan on starting tomorrow. thanks for the input.
03-03-2005, 10:50 AM
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Don't have a drawing, just the install directions.
There are 3 parts to the wiring harness:
Coil pack connections (large bundles terminated with connectors)
Activation inputs (long whie and gray wires)
Relay output (short yellow wire)
COIL PACK CONNECTORS
The coil pack connections are made by intercepting the PCM control signals at the large gray connector in the center of each coil pack. The harness has 2 pairs of connectors - one pair for each pack. Unplug the connectors on both coil packs and jumper them using the paired connectors of the 2-step. Either connector pair may be used on either engine bank.
ACTIVATION INPUTS
On/Off Operation
This allows the user to activate and de-active the 2-step mannually.
White wire (arming Switch): Momentary switch to ground
Gray wire: Connect to ground or parallel with white wire
Latched Operation:
White wire (Arming Switch): Momentary switch to ground (I put a switch attached to the shift lever for easy reach)
Gray wire (Hold Switch): clutch pedal switch -- this is where the 1998's are different - there is no computer connection - So I used the cruise control switch (located under the panel right by the clutch) just disconnected my cruise and wired in the gray wire.
YELLOW WIRE: Is used for nitrous set-up - I won't go into it as it is long.
After you get it wired for Latched Operations:
Set the desired RPM launch by turning the dials to desire #, set both to 0 "deactivates" the system
Push in the clutch
Press the momentary switch and release it
Keep clutch pushed in
Bring up your RPM's (floor the sucker)
It should hold at the set RPM's
Release the clutch - which de-activates the 2-step and your off
Or Manual mode:
Set 2-step RPM's
Press in clutch
Hold switch
Release both clutch and switch -- this is very hard to time and would strongly suggest using the latch operation.
One last thing that Harlan stated and I will re-state - You are using this product at your own risk.. Also DO NOT USE THIS DEVICE ON VEHICLES EQUIPT WITH CATALYTIC CONVERTERS
There are 3 parts to the wiring harness:
Coil pack connections (large bundles terminated with connectors)
Activation inputs (long whie and gray wires)
Relay output (short yellow wire)
COIL PACK CONNECTORS
The coil pack connections are made by intercepting the PCM control signals at the large gray connector in the center of each coil pack. The harness has 2 pairs of connectors - one pair for each pack. Unplug the connectors on both coil packs and jumper them using the paired connectors of the 2-step. Either connector pair may be used on either engine bank.
ACTIVATION INPUTS
On/Off Operation
This allows the user to activate and de-active the 2-step mannually.
White wire (arming Switch): Momentary switch to ground
Gray wire: Connect to ground or parallel with white wire
Latched Operation:
White wire (Arming Switch): Momentary switch to ground (I put a switch attached to the shift lever for easy reach)
Gray wire (Hold Switch): clutch pedal switch -- this is where the 1998's are different - there is no computer connection - So I used the cruise control switch (located under the panel right by the clutch) just disconnected my cruise and wired in the gray wire.
YELLOW WIRE: Is used for nitrous set-up - I won't go into it as it is long.
After you get it wired for Latched Operations:
Set the desired RPM launch by turning the dials to desire #, set both to 0 "deactivates" the system
Push in the clutch
Press the momentary switch and release it
Keep clutch pushed in
Bring up your RPM's (floor the sucker)
It should hold at the set RPM's
Release the clutch - which de-activates the 2-step and your off
Or Manual mode:
Set 2-step RPM's
Press in clutch
Hold switch
Release both clutch and switch -- this is very hard to time and would strongly suggest using the latch operation.
One last thing that Harlan stated and I will re-state - You are using this product at your own risk.. Also DO NOT USE THIS DEVICE ON VEHICLES EQUIPT WITH CATALYTIC CONVERTERS
03-05-2005, 06:47 AM
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Harlan hooked me up, a few changes
Add the relay in the WOT switch circuit like you
planned to. 2 step yellow wire to 85, 12V to 86, and
split the WOT circuit. Connect one end to 30 on the
relay, the other end to 87a.
Add the relay in the WOT switch circuit like you
planned to. 2 step yellow wire to 85, 12V to 86, and
split the WOT circuit. Connect one end to 30 on the
relay, the other end to 87a.
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03-05-2005, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Think this is what your looking for????
Ricky
03-05-2005, 10:01 AM
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I think that he's looking to do the same thing I want to do. Launch the car off of the 2 step @ wot without activating the nitrous until the clutch is released. I do believe that Harlan makes the only 2 step for our Coil on Plug system's.
03-05-2005, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by joshz06
Yes you are correct jamnut. Working on it now, hit a few problems. Waiting on an email from Harlan.
03-05-2005, 03:22 PM
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joshz06
I had a plan to do set mine up a little easier, what I was going to do was hook up the 2 step just as you would with an NA setup, then I was just going to run 2 wot switches in a series, 1 on my TB like any other WOT switch & one rigged up on the clutch that will close when the clutch pedal is released. It would also make sure that your nitrous shut's off anytime you puch in the clutch. Simple, easy & no tapping into all kinds of PCM wires.
I had a plan to do set mine up a little easier, what I was going to do was hook up the 2 step just as you would with an NA setup, then I was just going to run 2 wot switches in a series, 1 on my TB like any other WOT switch & one rigged up on the clutch that will close when the clutch pedal is released. It would also make sure that your nitrous shut's off anytime you puch in the clutch. Simple, easy & no tapping into all kinds of PCM wires.
03-05-2005, 10:59 PM
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I kept that diagram to hook mine up, in the near future. I am A4, soon maybe A3, but will launch, off the 2step and when released will allow the nitrous to start. Good luck, have fun, enjoy.
03-10-2005, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Think this is what your looking for????
NXRICKY, what that does is basically disables the nitrous solenoids despite the window switch being active. When the two-step is active the yellow wire sends ground to the second relay opening the circuit. After the clutch is released it kills the ground to the yellow wire and if you are within the window switch's rpm selection the solenoids immediately open. That is the most simple way we could think of to wire the system.
I would suggest if people are using an MSD window switch to set the window switch "Off" at least 200rpm above the two-step. I have noticed with both the Autometer tach and the MSD window switch will have inconsistant rpm measurements to our ignition systems (about 100rpm high). With the two-step set at 6200rpm the tach will show 6300rpm and the window switch will sense 6300rpm. So basically if you set the two-step at 6200 and the window switch at 6300 you may be leaving the line for a split second without the nitrous activated.
03-12-2005, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bad2000ss
Hey, that looks familiar.
NXRICKY, what that does is basically disables the nitrous solenoids despite the window switch being active. When the two-step is active the yellow wire sends ground to the second relay opening the circuit. After the clutch is released it kills the ground to the yellow wire and if you are within the window switch's rpm selection the solenoids immediately open. That is the most simple way we could think of to wire the system.
I would suggest if people are using an MSD window switch to set the window switch "Off" at least 200rpm above the two-step. I have noticed with both the Autometer tach and the MSD window switch will have inconsistant rpm measurements to our ignition systems (about 100rpm high). With the two-step set at 6200rpm the tach will show 6300rpm and the window switch will sense 6300rpm. So basically if you set the two-step at 6200 and the window switch at 6300 you may be leaving the line for a split second without the nitrous activated.
NXRICKY, what that does is basically disables the nitrous solenoids despite the window switch being active. When the two-step is active the yellow wire sends ground to the second relay opening the circuit. After the clutch is released it kills the ground to the yellow wire and if you are within the window switch's rpm selection the solenoids immediately open. That is the most simple way we could think of to wire the system.
I would suggest if people are using an MSD window switch to set the window switch "Off" at least 200rpm above the two-step. I have noticed with both the Autometer tach and the MSD window switch will have inconsistant rpm measurements to our ignition systems (about 100rpm high). With the two-step set at 6200rpm the tach will show 6300rpm and the window switch will sense 6300rpm. So basically if you set the two-step at 6200 and the window switch at 6300 you may be leaving the line for a split second without the nitrous activated.
So is this the definitive way to hook this up so that the 2 step is active while the N2o is inactive even though the micro switch on the throttle is.
03-14-2005, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SS125
So is this the definitive way to hook this up so that the 2 step is active while the N2o is inactive even though the micro switch on the throttle is.
I use an NX 3 button switch. The left button has nitrous arm (up position) and bottle heater (down position). The center button is purge. And I use the remote bottle open switch on the right for the momentary switch for the 2-step (up position). Pull up to the line and prestage, click the momentary switch for the 2-step, creep forward to light up the second light, and mash the gas.
03-14-2005, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bad2000ss
That is correct. As long as the 2-step is activated the solenoids will not open.
I use an NX 3 button switch. The left button has nitrous arm (up position) and bottle heater (down position). The center button is purge. And I use the remote bottle open switch on the right for the momentary switch for the 2-step (up position). Pull up to the line and prestage, click the momentary switch for the 2-step, creep forward to light up the second light, and mash the gas.
I use an NX 3 button switch. The left button has nitrous arm (up position) and bottle heater (down position). The center button is purge. And I use the remote bottle open switch on the right for the momentary switch for the 2-step (up position). Pull up to the line and prestage, click the momentary switch for the 2-step, creep forward to light up the second light, and mash the gas.