Tech Tip "Pusher systems"
A pusher system uses another media (nitrogen) to maintain a preset bottle pressure. Since nitrogen is at a much higher pressure than nitrous to start with you must use a regulator or a solenoid to maintain the 1050 psi worth of nitrous pressure. This nitrogen must be put onto the top of your liquid nitrous. A special valve or an adaptor will be needed so the nitrogren does not end up getting into you main nitrous supply line.
Positive things about a pusher system this system is it has the ability to keep the bottle pressure up during a run and in cold weather. A small bottle of nitrogen is all that is needed to make this happen. Constant bottle pressure will yield a very consistent nitrous flow. The performance is there to since you will not have any bottle pressure drop during the run. This will keep the nitrous to fuel ratio a constant.
Negative sides of this system, if your regulator or solenoid fails it could over pressure the cylinder and blow the burst disc. You need to empty out all the nitrogen out of the bottle so you can get it refilled. Now you are purchasing 2 different types of gas from your welder supplier. You have to have a special bottle valve or an adaptor to get the nitrogen on top of the liquid nitrous.
All in all I am not a huge fan of this type of system. It does work but really not intended for the street guys. I do not think any of the sanctioning racing bodies allows pusher systems.
I am sure there are some people out with a little more input on these systems, that have ran them and no the pitfalls if any.
Ricky
Ricky
Ricky
Some are using Nitrous solenoids and pressure switches, this I personally am not fond of, but thats just me..
Important to note that Nitrogen will not harm your engine, so no biggie if you run out of Nitrous. As you stated Ricky, you do have to empty your bottle completely between fills. You will also need some type of valve between your Nitrogen input line and your bottle. I use a typical stainless ball valve found at any hardware store. The valve is neccesary when you must remove your Bottle for refill, so you can turn off your Nitrogen, close your ball valve, then remove your tank. Of course you can turn off Nitrogen then purge the rest before removing if you wanted too.
For me, hands down the best thing I ever did for my nitrous system! You set your Nitrogen reg and forget it. You will always have enough bottle pressure, may have to purge some pressure off in very hot conditions but you will no longer have to worry about your bottle cooling down after a burn out or full pass.
Best part? NO MORE HEATERS!
Last edited by Flipper; Mar 22, 2005 at 01:06 AM.

Wall Mart has dust busters on sale..
Ricky
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Wall Mart has dust busters on sale.. 
The check valve is about 3"x.5"'x.5" with 1/8" ntp ports on both sides. Everything on the low pressure side of the reg is rated at 2000 PSI, and the filler to fill the tank is all rated at 5000 PSI. Both sides of the reg, Low and high pressure have a built in burst disks along with the nitrous bottle itself. I get good enough flow outta the check valve and reg to keep the bottle pressure up during the entire run, and no problems so far. As for the dust buster thats been taken care of awhile ago.
Pic. of the filler
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Pic. of the filler


