Angry nitrous user
Right now I'm just going to try and scan the car and try to fix the idles problem. Then i can work on getting the nitrous kit to run right. Thanks for helping guys, keep posting, I'm going to work now.
Your 60ft and ET could vary with traction etc. but the lack of trap speed tells me that your system may not be arming at all.
I agree, start with a smaller shot but from what you're saying it's sounds like the system isn't coming on.
I agree, start with a smaller shot but from what you're saying it's sounds like the system isn't coming on.
I am going to take a stab at it and say that the N2O solonoid is not working or not working properly. A few things lead me to say this first is that from what you describe I would say the the MPH from N/A to spraying is going to be down (N2O slower MPH). I think that it could be that the motor is not getting any N2O (for whatever reason, check your solonoid and see if it is clicking. If not check the wiring.) and is just dumping more fuel into the motor. As such I would venture to say it is probably fouling your plugs and that could be reason for the check engine light and loss of ET. If you are using a fogger nozzle plumbed into the TB make sure to check that it is pointed into the manifold and has not wormed its way around into a different direction.
To make sure you are getting N2O through the solonoid you can disconnect your N2O line from the solonoid, energize the system and purge it. Make sure that the discharge end of the nozzle is NOT pointed at anything that could be damaged. Also make sure that the solonoid is fastened to something. Another way is to pull the nozzle or plate and put it into a bucket (Make sure someone is there to hold it (You will have to figure this out and be careful doing so.), energize the system and spray it. I think that you may find that you are not getting any N2O to the motor. If you need some help please feel free to call me at 334-538-5868.
Jim C.
To make sure you are getting N2O through the solonoid you can disconnect your N2O line from the solonoid, energize the system and purge it. Make sure that the discharge end of the nozzle is NOT pointed at anything that could be damaged. Also make sure that the solonoid is fastened to something. Another way is to pull the nozzle or plate and put it into a bucket (Make sure someone is there to hold it (You will have to figure this out and be careful doing so.), energize the system and spray it. I think that you may find that you are not getting any N2O to the motor. If you need some help please feel free to call me at 334-538-5868.
Jim C.
I think the nitrous did work, on my last run I trapped at 111, but only ran a 13.7, kind of sad when i can run a 13.4@106 stock. I dont know why I get better 60's on street tires than nitto drags, i tried dumping low and it would bog, dumping high and it would spin, and feathering the clutch at all would bog the car. I also noticed after one of my runs, my shifter locked up for a few seconds, talk about weird. Clutch would lose pressure for some time also.
TECH Enthusiast
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From: Red Stick, LA
1st Pull plugs and inspect.
2nd Scan for codes
3rd get car running right based off 1 and 2
4th check nitrous instal
5th check nitrous equipment for proper operation (solinoids etc, fuel pressure etc)
2nd Scan for codes
3rd get car running right based off 1 and 2
4th check nitrous instal
5th check nitrous equipment for proper operation (solinoids etc, fuel pressure etc)
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[QUOTE=Big Geek]I am going to take a stab at it and say that the N2O solonoid is not working or not working properly.
That sounds like the problem. Either the N2 solenoid is bad or the wiring to it is bad. Check your N2 solenoid by taking an ohm meter and measure the voltage across it when your buddy hits the WOT switch (don't have to press the gas pedal, just reach over and push the switch w/ your finger). If you get voltage, you can rule out a voltage problem. Then try pulling the N2 nozzle out and hit the WOT switch to see if you get spray.
Disregard everything I just said, I am just talking out of my ***. Take it to your local speedshop and have them figure it out. Don't hurt yourself......
That sounds like the problem. Either the N2 solenoid is bad or the wiring to it is bad. Check your N2 solenoid by taking an ohm meter and measure the voltage across it when your buddy hits the WOT switch (don't have to press the gas pedal, just reach over and push the switch w/ your finger). If you get voltage, you can rule out a voltage problem. Then try pulling the N2 nozzle out and hit the WOT switch to see if you get spray.
Disregard everything I just said, I am just talking out of my ***. Take it to your local speedshop and have them figure it out. Don't hurt yourself......
Ok guys, after checking the entire wiring system for the nitrous I found a loose cable for the WOT switch, after connecting this wire, both solenoids were clicking properly. Therefore I believe that I was only adding extra fuel when I thought I was also spraying nitrous. Funny how one little wire screwed up the entire system. However, I still have the idle problem with the SES light. I will get it scanned tomarrow to find out why the idle is so screwy. I believe it to be either the Throttle Position Sensor or maybe a vacuum that came undone. What do you think may be causing the idle problems?
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if it was loose at the wot then why would it be spraying only fuel it would have killed the entire system. i think you need to get someone who knows what they're doing to straighten out the problems.
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From: The Chicken Ranch, California
if you were only spraying fuel, it would've slowed you down and your trap speed wouldn't have been as high as it was. at least that is what happens when I spray fuel only without the nitrous bottle open (used to do this to clear the lines when I was done spraying for the day before I got a purge).
I just came back from scanning the car and mechanics seem to agree that the Throttle positon sensor went out. Going to try replacing it on monday and see if this solves the problem, I hope...
i think you better go to the dyno and log a run or two so as to no more problems,,,consider yourself a lucky man...just make sure everything is ok...go over it again and again...these motors are very expensive to work on..would suck to blow one up just becuase your trigger happy...good luck 
matt
matt
Get your **** straight first, also start with the small jets. If you don't want to do that take a five gallon bucket with you so you have something to put the parts in. Ok First Of All, You Said You Didnt Know What A Schrader Valve Is??? Did You Install The Kit Yourself? Because If You Did Install The Kit And If It Is Infact A Nx Wet Kit Then You Had To Have Taken Out The Schrader Valve To Hook Up The Fuel Supply Line For The Fuel Solenoid. I Would Definetly Have Someone Who Knows What They Are Doing Check Out Your Car Before You Go And Use The Nitrous Again.
Sorry about the schrader valve incident, I know what it is, I just didn't recall it's name. I have a buddy of mine who happens to be a Mr. Goodwrench, so he is going to "borrow" a throttle position sensor off another LS1 car to put it on mine and at no charge (nice to have good friends in high places.) Hopefully this will resolve the idle problem so I can take it to a tuner and have my A/F ratio checked as well as log some runs. Nitrous is quickly becoming expensive...
If anyone here has had a similar problem to mine can you please post up about it so I can compare the symptoms?
If anyone here has had a similar problem to mine can you please post up about it so I can compare the symptoms?
Ok, I tried changing the TPS with a buddy of mine who has an LS1, no luck, I also changed the sensor right under that which resembles an earpiece. Nothing changed. Also pulled out the spark plugs, they are fine as well. The car idles like if it has a really big aftermarket cam. When revving, the car takes a long time to come back to idle. Engine shakes violently at idle. I am going to scan the car again tonight to see what codes I get. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Last edited by omore001; Apr 6, 2005 at 06:02 PM.