ive yet to make a maiden voyage down the track on the spray so i have a few inquires...

first off...what rpm are you guys launchin at??

when are ya hitting the juice off the line or in 2nd gear??

keep in mind the massave amount of torque im gonna be layin down (595RWTQ) so i need to be cautous of 1 not blowing my rear (stock 10 bolt w/girdle) 2 tryin to keep good traction. not to mention that i dont frequent the track on a weekly basis so my track skills arent the greatest.

thanx for any input!!

 

I wouldn't even think about launching off a 150 shot with the 10-bolt in an M6 with DRs--even without the nitrous you're at risk of exploding your rear.

Josh

 

you need better tire and stronger rear end...nitrous+10 bolt can be ok (I run 10's no proble on stock 10 bolt),,,,BUT 6-speed + nitrous+stock rear+sticky tires = $$$$$$$$$$

 

I plan on setting my window switch to go on at 5000rpm and shutting off at 6200rpm at the track. I know I could get more out of it spraying more throughout the powerband but this way, I'll only be spraying after the car is in gear and rolling so there is the least amount of shock to the rear end and tranny.

BTW, when I shift, my rpms only drop just below 5000.

 

Set the lower end of the window switch at 3500 not 5000...

SDB

 

haha guys take SDB advice, he is a pro at this kind of stuff. Fastest car i know of around here. Well wait isnt Witzy's car gunna be faster lol just kidding. anyways justen let ya guys know SDB know his stuff and to take his word.
peace rob

 

settin it at 5000 is for a reason he wants it to hook, not do a burnout! You dont want it shutting off at the bottom of every gear either

 

HE probably wont get the results he want power wise out of his system with the window set at 5000. But you got to do what you have to do for it to hook up.

 

My car would always blow the tires away on the 150. At the time I had m6, 3.73, and nittos. I couldn't use the 150 until 3rd gear.

 

the timing tuner has a nitrous delay feature to delay activiation of nitrous for up to .8 seconds from point of activation. This would help out on teh launch...to be honest, if you ahve severe traction problems on the bottle, you need more suspension work and maybe stickier tires. I run 10's and at 30 mph WITH the nitrous I could whap the throttle, and hook and go! All on BFG DR's....I would run many many bikes from a 30 kick, that way I could be in teh beginning of 2nd gear on the bottle, and make one shift to 3rd, and then run 3rd up to 155 mph....basically race bikes from a 30-150 kick and have only one gear change and no tire spin....

You need some HAL shocks and springs all around, remove your front sway bar, and do some little odds and ends to the suspension...

SDB

 

I launch at 3000 rpm's slipping the clutch. I dont spray until AFTER I am in 2nd gear (If I spray in 1st or on the 1-2 shift I will just spin like crazy). This is all on the stock 10 bolt too, but I do baby the car a little bit on the launches and on the shifts (on purpose, since I can't really cough up the money for a rearend right now).

 

get the credit card ready, then buy some slicks, launch at 6k with nitrous and let her rip, I did this for the first time the other day and it was awesome until my tranny blew .

Serious though for me its too much to think about to just hit it in second gear, what you need is some sort of controller that will ramp it slowly on a time delay or rpm delay, maybe even buy some window switches. With 10 bolt I would be careful on the launches unless you already are planning on a 12 bolt, The 3k launch feathering sounds good but it seems like it will be hard to hit the nitrous right after switching from 1st to 2nd.

 

I never used a window switch, but if you must set it around 3000-3500 and then a few hundred before shift point like SDB mentioned. I would do the 150+M6+DR for the fact most likely he'll slip the tires enough to get away from exploding the gears and then shhhhhhhh gone. And I bet Wile-E is looking at his factory tach for the just below 5000 rpm drop, thats what I though too until I logged mine, we'll say I was surprised.

Looks like TTRA is also using a stock clutch (maybe a LS6, either way that should slip more than enough) with that kind of torque on real load to save the rear end as well.

 

thanks for the input everyone...

CAT3....im running a spec3 with a billet wheel.

SDB- i wasnt aware of this feature..ill look into it...i have the latest version timing tuner so i hope its included in this unit.

i think my major set back right now is my stock suspension....i have shocks, a torque arm and LCA;s sitting here ready to go on...ill do them first before i make another trip to the track.

 

Yup, I'm going by the factory tach.

What do the rpms actually drop to when shifting at 6400-6500?

Basically, I am trying to get the effect of a delay or progressive controller without spending the money. I'm going to make my virgin nitrous runs at SDR tomorrow and I'm going to try a combination of several things. Keep in mind, I'm only doing this for fun and have no intention of setting any records. I just want to have a good time and drive the car home in one piece.

 

I normally launch at ~4000 rpms on a really sticky track, its really hard to find the fine line beetween not bogging and hitting it just right and trying NOT to break the rear end. I have found that if i launch at 4500-4700 that i can pull high 1.6 60's on the stock suspenion minus the front sway bar. but that is really pushing the limits of the rear end.

my window switch is set to come on at 3400 and shut off at 6000. its activated by a wot switch. you really need to spay in first gear if you wanna run some good time.

if this is your daily driver, then i think the window switch form 5000-6000 is a good choice, but if its not your daily driver, then go out there and have some damn fun, ive had plenty of success on the stock 10 bolt, ive only exploded the differntial twice.