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Old 07-02-2005 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
Some of you guys might be approaching the cam selection from the wrong end. You don't choose LSA first, nor do you choose the intake/exhaust split first. You need to determine where you want to make peak power first (this will determine intake closing point), then you'll want to determine how much nitrous you're going to spray and how much overlap you can tolerate (this will determine everything else).

If you're strictly going for nitrous performance, you'll want to open your exhaust valve earlier than you would NA. Nitrous burns a lot faster and by opening the exhaust valve earlier, you will lower your pumping losses and gain power. You won't need tons of overlap nor a lot of intake duration since nitrous is boost in a bottle. If you don't want the car to be a turd at lower rpm, then you'll want the overlap close to some popular cams out on the market. I'll take my favorite, the FMS F-13. 230/232 112LSA 110ICL.
This cam has overlap of 7 degrees at .050". This is the max overlap I'd recommend to keep the 346 from being a "turd" down at lower rpm.
Intake closing point of 45 degrees ABDC (which will peak at 6300 NA and pull to 7000).
Exhaust opening point of 50 degrees BBDC (very good for NA, but nitrous needs an even earlier opening)

Using the F-13 as a guide, I'd recommend the following.
230/240 114LSA 110ICL
Overlap at .050" is still 7 degrees (just like the F-13)
Intake closing point is 45 degrees ADBC (just like the F-13)
Exhaust valve opening is 58 degrees (8 degrees earlier than F-13. Not as good for NA, but better for a 200 shot or greater).
240 degrees of exhaust duration would give the greater volume of exhaust gas additional time to evacuate the cylinder.

On a side note, you could achieve similar critical valve events with a smaller cam.
224/236 116LSA 113ICL
Overlap is -2 degrees at .050" (very smooth)
Intake closing point is still 45 degrees ABDC.
Exhaust opening point is 57 degrees (outstanding for a 200 shot or more)
236 degrees of exhaust duration is still pretty good for a nitrous shot.

Remember, choose the valve events you need first and let the specs fall where they do.

So you think this cam would go well with the juice?
FM-F6-114 FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 226"/230" .575"/.595" 114LSA - semi-aggressive profile with a 2000-6800 RPM range, fair idle
Old 07-02-2005 | 02:40 AM
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Devon, my weight was done over two years ago, only non-daily driven item was 1/8th tank gas, but with seats in. Was 3400, now I havent weighed it recently, but have added FG Hood, race wheels, chopped off some of the exhaust piping , K Member and A arms will be going in shortly. I am guessing 3350. I'll reweigh it though once the engine, K and Arms go in.
Old 07-02-2005 | 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Devon, my weight was done over two years ago, only non-daily driven item was 1/8th tank gas, but with seats in. Was 3400, now I havent weighed it recently, but have added FG Hood, race wheels, chopped off some of the exhaust piping , K Member and A arms will be going in shortly. I am guessing 3350. I'll reweigh it though once the engine, K and Arms go in.
I see your from hawaii, im stationed on schofield.
Old 07-02-2005 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Devon, my weight was done over two years ago, only non-daily driven item was 1/8th tank gas, but with seats in. Was 3400, now I havent weighed it recently, but have added FG Hood, race wheels, chopped off some of the exhaust piping , K Member and A arms will be going in shortly. I am guessing 3350. I'll reweigh it though once the engine, K and Arms go in.
Damn dude, what do you weigh? Yeah, I still have stock k-member, a-arms, brakes, all the heavy stuff, hehe. Plus my drivetrain is pretty heavy, turbo 400, 3 inch steel driveshaft, 12-bolt.
Old 07-02-2005 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ws6sojuiced01
I see your from hawaii, im stationed on schofield.

I'm on Schofield as well. You need to come out to the track sometime, there is a local board a lot of us Fbods chat on.

Devon, I weigh a svelt 160lbs, I drop to 150 for raceday, like a wrestling! I do need to reweigh my car though.
Old 07-02-2005 | 11:13 PM
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Sorry to interrupt but how much hp shot would 224/224 .567 112LSA be able to handle?

Does it matter if it is a Dry/Wet shot or if it is Direct Port?
Old 07-02-2005 | 11:35 PM
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to solve this you need to tlak to motor machine. They use the cam doctor which was designed by david vizard. If you guys know who he is then you know he can give you the best possible cam at almost 90% efficency on the nitrous. David Vizard is the cam guru, he wrights more article and has more experience than most could ever dream of.......
Old 07-02-2005 | 11:52 PM
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my trex handled the nitrous decent... numbers are in my sig..
Old 07-03-2005 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
I'm on Schofield as well. You need to come out to the track sometime, there is a local board a lot of us Fbods chat on.

Devon, I weigh a svelt 160lbs, I drop to 150 for raceday, like a wrestling! I do need to reweigh my car though.


i wish my car was here but its still in indiana collecting dust at my mothers house sence they only will ship one car for us. So i had to bring the GTP to haul the kids around.
Old 07-03-2005 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Zentenk
Sorry to interrupt but how much hp shot would 224/224 .567 112LSA be able to handle?

Does it matter if it is a Dry/Wet shot or if it is Direct Port?
I've run a 200 shot with that cam in the past. It will take plenty. It's more of a question as to how much your motor will take. Typically, the stock shortblock gives out before the cam becomes a hindrance.
Old 07-03-2005 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ws6sojuiced01
So you think this cam would go well with the juice?
FM-F6-114 FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 226"/230" .575"/.595" 114LSA - semi-aggressive profile with a 2000-6800 RPM range, fair idle
This cam would do fine on the juice, but it's not what I would consider a "nitrous grind" cam. It's a good all around cam that will take most of the nitrous you'd be willing to throw at it. IMO, you don't need a nitrous specific cam unless you plan on spraying above a 200 shot. Anything below a 200 shot, you'll want to choose a cam that best fits your NA goals. I've made huge gains on nitrous with the stock cam, LOL.
Old 07-03-2005 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
This cam would do fine on the juice, but it's not what I would consider a "nitrous grind" cam. It's a good all around cam that will take most of the nitrous you'd be willing to throw at it. IMO, you don't need a nitrous specific cam unless you plan on spraying above a 200 shot. Anything below a 200 shot, you'll want to choose a cam that best fits your NA goals. I've made huge gains on nitrous with the stock cam, LOL.




Thank for the help
Old 07-03-2005 | 04:58 PM
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The NITROUSEXPRESS 224/228 114 LSA was computer picked for the nitrous powered 346 LS engine. If you will notice they recommend Comp Cams 915 springs with these cams. www.nitrousexpress.com
Old 07-03-2005 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gollum
The NITROUSEXPRESS 224/228 114 LSA was computer picked for the nitrous powered 346 LS engine. If you will notice they recommend Comp Cams 915 springs with these cams. www.nitrousexpress.com
Thanks i didnt even know nx had any cam.
Old 07-04-2005 | 12:55 PM
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I have a 228/228 .588/.588 on a 114 LSA

What is a single duration Cam BAD on NITROUS??????

Is my Cam BAD for Nitorus or will it work OK???

I know split durations are better, just don't knwo why.
Old 07-04-2005 | 01:46 PM
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I dont think there is a bad cam for nitrous but there is better, like one that has a bigger number on the exhaust side of duration.
Old 07-04-2005 | 03:13 PM
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Exactly, no such thing as a bad nitrous cam. I ran 10.60s in my SS convertible which had a TR 230/224 111LSA cam. Heads/cam/150 shot at 3800 lb race weight. Car hauled *** on the spray with that cam.
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