here's a link to the previously designed fpss safety feature https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=lean

 

Call Jerry and tell him you want a Pro-Modified version of the car. You'll be happy you did.

Go getcha some of this:

 

The GTO Pro Mod version has a 110" wheelbase which would be nice, but it would severely limit the resale market.

Very impressive times. Tell me about the car.

 

The market would definately get much smaller with the Pro-Modified version, but I've seen turnkey P/M cars go for some big bank.

That timeslip is now the second fastest P/M pass ever. Somebody went just faster a few weeks ago I believe. That was done with less overdrive allowed for the blower cars as there is now!

BTW, I know somebody with a 710" Fulton engine for sale that has already been 6.20's @ 225 MPH. It's fresh and comes with spare rods, pistons, lifters, and valvesprings. It also comes completely plumbed with 3 Speedtech foggers. It's a basic P/M BBC. 18* heads, Star vacume pump, 5 Stage Dry-Sump, and Braswell split Dom's. It's a bad SOB.

 

That looks like Mitch Stott's Pro Mod time slip from a couple of years ago - the first and only doorslammer in the fives to this day. I think 6.50s for Bickelfirebird are a bit optimistic. Remember, IHRA Pro Stocks run 6.40s to 6.50s with 815 cubes and BIG budgets on very well prepped tracks. Anyways best of luck with the new combination, it sounds very impressive nonetheless.

 

It is Mitch Scott's slip. Billes went a 6.03 @ 236 MPH in Englishtown last week. Mitch was quicker to the 60' and 330' marks though. Billes has plenty of MPH, just gotta work on the car.

 

You know Tim Wallace?

 

Not exactly. I heard about it through a good friend of his. 'The Dog'.

This motor was bought straight out of Shannon's car. This is the real deal.

 

Back to the topic, this IS preventable with a couple of those suggestions.....right?

I hate reading this stuff just when I'm ready to put my 1st N20 kit in...

 

I believe that it is preventable, but as of today, I don't know exactly how to do it. I might just siwtch to dry until I figure it out.

 

IMO, there is no way to be totally safe with nitrous. Stuff happens... But then the same can be said of any power adder and plenty of N/A engines have bit the dust, as well... Get a well-engineered wet kit like the NX or TNT or Dyno Tune, use a WOT switch, a window switch, a FPSS and start small with a 75 shot. Test everything before you run it. Keep your N/A tune a little rich until you get a feel for it and as you get all the bugs worked out, you can up your shot and tune.

There are a lot more success stories with nitrous than horror stories. MOST of the horror stories are operator error. But then again, stuff happens... If you're not willing to break it, don't race it.

 

what is the best way to test a solenoid? Just installed a used kit and want to make sure fuel is spraying on a 125 wet kit. Thanks!

 

I think Harris Speed Works or someone carries a solenoid type bottle opener. You could just wire that with your other n2o solenoid... but that's just the same as the double redundancy idea.

 

Many companies such as Honeywell make various types of flowmeters and related devices that measure fluid flow rates and send an electrical signal to a recorder, controller, etc. Although expensive, such a device could be used to provide power to the NO2 solenoid "only" when fuel is flowing at a certain rate to the motor. There is no doubt it can be done effectively.

 

Good question. How do you test the solenoid without running with it? Is there a simple way? Thanks!

 

From TNT's site to test system BEFORE use.....

http://www.texasnitroustechnology.co...tem%20Test.pdf

 

Thanks!

 

You should be fine, solenoides stick all of the time. It sucks, try being at the big end of the track spraying a dual stage 200 shot on a stock motor, and letting off to find out that your throttls blade is stuck open.... Yes, wow.!!!!