What he said. 
nitrous experts step in-->
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: miami, florida
nitrous experts step in--> i am considering to spray my Z06 since alot of things are just straight up too much money on this car and it would be more budget efficient to just spray it. i am thinking to spray 125 with perhaps full exhaust and a cam. (g5x3, fm13). what is in your opinion the biggest shot you would spray on a z06 without worrying about fuel pump, fuel..etc..etc) i have seen some individuals do 200 shot for a while without any issues. anybody ever done this and regrets it? is the ls6 engine, drivetrain, fuel supply capable of handling a bigger shot of nitrous than a ls1 c5 vette? i know in fbodies most people would usually spray around 150 or 175 tops with minimal issues. whats the biggest shot you would do on a z06? i am going to take it dyno tuned as well..thanks in advance.
Well a 200hp is not out of the question. The problem I am having is getting it all hooked up. A vette with big power is harder to put down compared to an F-body. Our fuel pumps can support 550hp and some have gone over 600 with the stocker. Yes, the Z06/ls6 can handle a bigger shot compared to a ls1, for sure. Get a DTE strut brace for your launches though (n2o) or you'll have a big $$ repair when trans case/third member break up, and big sticky meats. 
Robert
Robert
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TECH Apprentice
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From: miami, florida
what is the safest shot though? is a fuel pump needed? i was thinking with a cam and a good shot of nitrous that 600rwhp would be possible if tuned properly. will this be too much to spray if i stayed with the stock manifolds, but added a off road x pipe?
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From: Tampa Bay
I tend to be a little more conservative than others because I don't care to see what the inside of my motor looks like anytime soon, so here goes my $0.02
I think 600rwhp is pushing it on a stock bottom. The rod bolts should be replaced with ARP when you hit 550. The next weak link is the pistons at 600. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will shorten engine life... whether that's 10 passes or 50 passes is anybody's guess...
I'm currently at 500 and will be staying under 550 until the rod bolts go in and a double roller timing chain. The chain is more for road racing, but figure it's good insurance as I have upped the limiter to 7000 and have the shift light set for 6500, with shifting intended at around 6750.
I have minimal bolt-ons... Haltech TRAP CAI, B&B short headers (on the car when purchased along with a T-stat) and Bassani ORX thru the stock Titanium axle-back exhaust. I run a NOS 5177 dry shot (currently 120rwhp) with 42# injectors. I will also do an in tank if I decide to go above 550.
I can't stress enough about the differential strut brace mentioned above if you plan to spray on sticky tires... I found out the hard way... popped the diff off the trans and took out the trans output shaft while I was at it. After a trans rebuild with Lingenfelter hardened output shaft, new rear trans cover, new rear diff w/ hardened output shaft, and diff strut brace it drives like new again. That was a very expensive trip to the drag strip
Robert... did you find out the hard way as well?
I think 600rwhp is pushing it on a stock bottom. The rod bolts should be replaced with ARP when you hit 550. The next weak link is the pistons at 600. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will shorten engine life... whether that's 10 passes or 50 passes is anybody's guess...
I'm currently at 500 and will be staying under 550 until the rod bolts go in and a double roller timing chain. The chain is more for road racing, but figure it's good insurance as I have upped the limiter to 7000 and have the shift light set for 6500, with shifting intended at around 6750.
I have minimal bolt-ons... Haltech TRAP CAI, B&B short headers (on the car when purchased along with a T-stat) and Bassani ORX thru the stock Titanium axle-back exhaust. I run a NOS 5177 dry shot (currently 120rwhp) with 42# injectors. I will also do an in tank if I decide to go above 550.
I can't stress enough about the differential strut brace mentioned above if you plan to spray on sticky tires... I found out the hard way... popped the diff off the trans and took out the trans output shaft while I was at it. After a trans rebuild with Lingenfelter hardened output shaft, new rear trans cover, new rear diff w/ hardened output shaft, and diff strut brace it drives like new again. That was a very expensive trip to the drag strip
Robert... did you find out the hard way as well?
Last edited by BluMachine; Aug 11, 2005 at 12:47 PM.
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Originally Posted by BluMachine
I tend to be a little more conservative than others because I don't care to see what the inside of my motor looks like anytime soon, so here goes my $0.02
I think 600rwhp is pushing it on a stock bottom. The rod bolts should be replaced with ARP when you hit 550. The next weak link is the pistons at 600. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will shorten engine life... whether that's 10 passes or 50 passes is anybody's guess...
I'm currently at 500 and will be staying under 550 until the rod bolts go in and a double roller timing chain. The chain is more for road racing, but figure it's good insurance as I have upped the limiter to 7000 and have the shift light set for 6500, with shifting intended at around 6750.
I have minimal bolt-ons... Haltech TRAP CAI, B&B short headers (on the car when purchased along with a T-stat) and Bassani ORX thru the stock Titanium axle-back exhaust. I run a NOS 5177 dry shot (currently 120rwhp) with 42# injectors. I will also do an in tank if I decide to go above 550.
I can't stress enough about the differential strut brace mentioned above if you plan to spray on sticky tires... I found out the hard way... popped the diff off the trans and took out the trans output shaft while I was at it. After a trans rebuild with Lingenfelter hardened output shaft, new rear trans cover, new rear diff w/ hardened output shaft, and diff strut brace it drives like new again. That was a very expensive trip to the drag strip
Robert... did you find out the hard way as well?
I think 600rwhp is pushing it on a stock bottom. The rod bolts should be replaced with ARP when you hit 550. The next weak link is the pistons at 600. Not saying it can't be done, just that it will shorten engine life... whether that's 10 passes or 50 passes is anybody's guess...
I'm currently at 500 and will be staying under 550 until the rod bolts go in and a double roller timing chain. The chain is more for road racing, but figure it's good insurance as I have upped the limiter to 7000 and have the shift light set for 6500, with shifting intended at around 6750.
I have minimal bolt-ons... Haltech TRAP CAI, B&B short headers (on the car when purchased along with a T-stat) and Bassani ORX thru the stock Titanium axle-back exhaust. I run a NOS 5177 dry shot (currently 120rwhp) with 42# injectors. I will also do an in tank if I decide to go above 550.
I can't stress enough about the differential strut brace mentioned above if you plan to spray on sticky tires... I found out the hard way... popped the diff off the trans and took out the trans output shaft while I was at it. After a trans rebuild with Lingenfelter hardened output shaft, new rear trans cover, new rear diff w/ hardened output shaft, and diff strut brace it drives like new again. That was a very expensive trip to the drag strip
Robert... did you find out the hard way as well?
Robert
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 344
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From: miami, florida
damn..100 passes..thats alot. i wonder if a big cam would actually make you spray less than the stock cam? in other words, would having a bigger cam (G5X3,FM13) allow you to spray less or more? i am thinking less because of the added compression in the engine. would it be safer to say that it is better to spray 150 on a cammed z06 rather than 200 on a stock cammed z06?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: miami, florida
Originally Posted by whitecamaross
damn..100 passes..thats alot. i wonder if a big cam would actually make you spray less than the stock cam? in other words, would having a bigger cam (G5X3,FM13) allow you to spray less or more? i am thinking less because of the added compression in the engine. would it be safer to say that it is better to spray 150 on a cammed z06 rather than 200 on a stock cammed z06?
Well any cam basically is compatable with what ever shot you decide. With that said, there are dedicated n2o cams that will allow a higher VE on the spray. Imo, I think you'ed be fine, others may have input/insight on that particular cam. Nitrous loves compression. I don't think your cly/press will be an issue at these levels, as long as you use some high octane fuel. Others opinions?
Robert
Robert
