Mrr23...you may think I am giving you a hard time. And in a round about way I am. But the real reason I dont let your posts go is because many times they are incorrect. That in itself is not a big deal...happens all the time. But when you post things in the manner you do..like its known facts...some may take that as fact. If you arent 100% sure about something...make a note of that.
Like: "not 100% sure about this...but i think maybe......."

Nitrous is very unforgiving. Good info in this forum is critical.

Anyways...onto the seperation of nitrogen and oxygen in the bottle. Barring any contaminants from the mother bottle...the contents are pretty much pure N20. It doesnt seperate or break down in the bottle. It will seperate and break down in the cylinder when the temp gets to ~570...I cant remember the exact temp but its around there.
When N20 is stored in a vessel under pressure certain things will happen at certain pressures. If the N20 is less than ~ 750 psi it stays more of a thick gas that fills the bottle, less than ideal for use on an engine. Once it gets above that point it will begin to accumulate at the bottom of the bottle in full liquid form..just like water. Most companies like to specify a minimum operating pressure thats usually between 950-1050. Now even with the bottom of the bottle full of LIQUID nitrous from a fresh fill..the top of the bottle will be full of gasses. From a fresh fill these gases can be made of a small amount of regular air and some gaseous nitrous. Regular air can get in the bottle if you purge the entire contents out and leave the valve open for a breif period. But for the purpose of this discussion we are talking about a full bottle of only N20. So with a full bottle of N20...at 1050 psi..we have probably 1/2 of the bottle (lower part) full of liquid n20. The top 1/2 cannot be a vacum...so the liquid nitrous will bleed off gaseous nitrous and it will fill the space above the liquid. With the bottle valve open...the gaseous nitrous will find its way to the highest point and will usualy result in the feed line being mostly filled with gaseous nitrous. This is why you purge before a run. To get the liquid all the way to the nitrous noid.

At no time will the molecular makeup of N20 change in the bottle...only when it enters the engine and reaches extreme temps. On my car I use a ntrogen push system. And its based off the above info. If nitrous molecules seperated...the nitrogen push would not work and the nitrous would be contaminated. The nitrogen push works well and does not combine with the nitrous. It maintains the pressure at 1100 psi and keep the nitrous as a liquid.

If you are getting odd occurances with your purge, or perfromance and there are no other malfunctions...its most likely a pressure issue. Maintaining EXACT pressures is critical for consistancy.

Also keep in mind that if nitrous is in liquid form in the bottle and is at 1000 psi...the nitrous noid opens and then nitrous begins to flow down the nitrous feed line...there will be a pressure drop within the line. If the pressure drops too low the liquid flowing can revert back to gas right in the line..again making the hit soft and inconsistant. So you have to keep the bottle pressure well above the critical 750 psi point. More like a minimum of 850 IMO. I believe when this happens the expansion of liquid to gas within the line slows the flow rate and volume overall. In other words...keep bottle pressure high enough to ensure that liquid flows from bottle to jet at all times...including your entire run and accounting for bottle pressure drop during a run.

 

860performance- understood. which you verify my last post i just made before you posted. volume of container vs amount of nitrous.

 

383, dead nuts, well written.

 

then, next time someone comes in and says i spray out of the hole with a 225 dry shot, without qualification, you might want to not let their post go either. stop only criticizing me. seems like your only focus is on me. when i see you sharing that same criticizm with everyone that posts, then i'll back off of you criticizing me. i'm not always right. science wasn't a major of mine.

 

so with both of you in here. am i right with the reason why you can't use the last 1-2 lbs effectively or not? volume of container vs amount of nitrous. you can get bottle pressure to 1000 psi with 2 lbs left of a 10 lb bottle. still doesn't work.

 

Yep, that's the way Ive allways understood it. Your extra oxy molecule (2-nitro/1-oxy) is released in the combustion chamber only, and thus the key to additional power-more fuel can be added.
Robert

 

you guys are correct on this one aspect. i told you i would be the first to admit wrong if i was.

 

Geez mrr23 not on a post whoring chase are you, ever hear of the edit button? It allows you to add comments to an older post of your own, rather tha ending up like this one having 12 replies, to everyone elses 13. Almost 1:1 you against the world. Agree with fact vs. belief stated my Al.

Al, I see what your saying about the pressure drop and I am thinking back, wishing I had a remote pressure gauage and way to log the pressure drop now. Do you know of any products that will log nitrous pressure for this reason, to see the drop during the run?

 

then go back and criticize the others in the very same threads for not posting facts. it can't be just half ***.

my statement of hitting the nitrous at 2000 rpms is not a fact. but, another guy that comes in and says he does, or sprays out of the hole, is? you can't criticize one and not the other. do a complete job.

 

NX Ricky can chime in on this one with more details but the new maximizer logs runs and has an input for pressure.

 

if you ever fully read my posts, you'll EDITs on the bottoms of some. again, another not fully reading. there are times when a seperate post is needed as it's a different thought. i try to sepearte thoughts and ideas. makes for easier reading. this coming from a guy with more posts than me.

EDIT: just noticed it no longer says when you edit a post. there you happy now? i wonder when that changed on the board? should put it back. that way, comments like that one doesn't happen.

ANOTHER EDIT: now go figure, i edit one of my other posts, and it tells you i'v edited. must only tell you it edited if it's from a previous day?

YET ANOTHER EDIT: never mind it not says i edited this one.

 

Very well said as usual. Good info and I couldn't have said it better, even if I took my time.
Now with these bigger and bigger hits, I guess my bottle pressure is droping so fast, and a weak heater, that once I get below (like you stated) about 800 is where I start having problems.
Do you think that the NX Fire and Ice bottle heater would do the trick? They state that it will keep pressure at set-point within 5psi. I wonder if that is till bottle is empty?
With the info given, I believe I may a couple issues. Two bad fills. One was from toping off to many times, and allowing air in each time. Second bad fill was shop emptying there mother bottle all the way then changing to new bottle to finish fill, mucho air this time. Last fill was probably pretty good (I did bleed off bottle till it was empty=atmospheric air filled bottle. However, after a few runs I couldn't keep pressure upto min 950 and pretty soon all that was spraying out my purge was sporadic nitrous in a sputtering small fog with mostly gaseous n2o.
Thanks guys
Robert

 

Robert, if you stepped it up to your planned shot size then HELL YEAH your losing pressure big time!

mrr23, your apology is accepted and thanks for noticing I was reading the entire post, unlike some. Also, maybe think before you type? Helps sometimes IIRC! FWIW, you can go back and edit as much as you like, even if your fact or opinion changes.

 

Cat, you can log your n2o pressure on the LM1 wide band, also throw in your fuel pressure. You can have , if I remeber correctly, 6 inputs into the LM1, which also can be tied into your laptop/Hp Tuner. I haven't done it myself yet, but will once the season is over, not hard to do.
Robert

 

think before i type. maybe i'll try that. maybe don't make unneeded comments next time? and i'll do my best not to as well. amazing how the edit post message is now appearing in the posts.

 

Yea I am stepping up my shots, but my compicated system quit on me 100% yesterday when I went to run a 11.50 cobra. Well to make a long story short, I got my lunch handed to me big time (I missed 3rd gear also), right in front of all my car club buddys. Oh well, that's the first Cobra that I have lost to, and am sure there will be more. A buddy in his cam/head C5 lost a another Cobra, on the pass following mine, so at least I had someone to share the shame with. I did set a new best ET last Wed, though.
How's your project coming? Did that guy get hold of you with the dry nozzles for sale cheap?
Robert

 

One thing to remember, if I remember correctly, is once a post is quoted it stays as the original post. So, I allways add the, edit:, so it doesn't look like I am trying to make a rebutal invalid.
Robert

 

yes it does. just trying to clean up a couple of posts. if you can't tell, i hate being wrong. and i don't like giving out misinformation. once proven wrong, i admit it and try to get rid of the misinformation.

 

usually, instead of editing my posts, unless for clerical reasons, i make another post to say something else. but, then i get whacked by being called a post *****.

just trying to help out. it's obvious the last 6-8 lbs can't be air. wouldn't have weight then.

 

Us nitrous junkies are just out to get you man...maybe its for having the pink banner

Robert, I did get ahold of the dry nozzle setup, but need to complete the deal...hopefully soon. Lunch hand out now huh, thought snake was on the menu, guess that was last weeks special!
*EDIT*: I havent messed with my LM-1 since I've come back from the Afghan, even though I intentionally bought EIO HPT for that reason *Scratching head like Slingblade!*