Whats a good Dry Kit?
11-14-2005, 08:18 PM
#21
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well bad6as all I can tell u that I have done buiss with Dave and I have bought some products from him and I'm very happy with all his help.
I can call him any time to ask him some Q and He takes his time to answer them
I can call him any time to ask him some Q and He takes his time to answer them
11-14-2005, 08:22 PM
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well i need to get the trans rebuilt, and im geting the aussie clutch, i thought ide start reading now so when that stuf was done ill have the knowledge to know what i want
11-14-2005, 08:46 PM
#23
Originally Posted by bad6as
well i need to get the trans rebuilt, and im geting the aussie clutch, i thought ide start reading now so when that stuf was done ill have the knowledge to know what i want
Robert
11-14-2005, 08:49 PM
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so the dry shot just sprays n20 threw the intake and the coumputer is susposta notice this and add more fuel. maby new injectors and fuel pump
the wet adds n2o and fuel threw the intake. maby new fuel pump?
the wet adds n2o and fuel threw the intake. maby new fuel pump?
11-14-2005, 08:50 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Robert56
Two things I'll point for ya, on your way to fullfilling your knowledge base. First it's n2o, not No2, second, the fact is, wet is harder on your vehicle because it makes more torque, hp for hp, compared to dry. Myself, I am a dry user on the lsx platform, for it's inherent safety when compared to wet. Either way though, it's the best bang for the buck.
Robert
Robert
Dave
11-15-2005, 05:37 AM
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How can wet make more TQ hp for hp then dry? That statement doesn't make mathematical sense.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
11-15-2005, 09:27 AM
#27
Originally Posted by BuckWheat1
How can wet make more TQ hp for hp then dry? That statement doesn't make mathematical sense.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
The rest, well its a matter of opinion.
Dave
11-15-2005, 11:08 AM
#28
Originally Posted by BuckWheat1
How can wet make more TQ hp for hp then dry? That statement doesn't make mathematical sense.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
Unless you're using a direct port set-up or something like the NX nozzle set-up, a dry kit is the safest way to go. Dry's also better on the street cause you can run that bottle until it's just about empty. Ofcourse the amount of power will diminish as the bottle empties but it's still better than a wet system that goes way rich as the bottle empties yielding even less power. With both kits you can make enough power to break parts. Dry's also cheaper.
The rest of what you say is in fact true.
Robert
11-16-2005, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BuckWheat1
Robert, try shooting the whole 135 shot all at once. Bet your TQ goes up.
11-16-2005, 10:45 AM
#33
go we to save N2O!!!!!!
I have a NX wet kit with a 100 shot and can get 50 1/8 mile runs to the 10 lb bottle
a friend has a dry 100 kit and only gets about 15 runs on the same track.
I have a NX wet kit with a 100 shot and can get 50 1/8 mile runs to the 10 lb bottle
a friend has a dry 100 kit and only gets about 15 runs on the same track.
11-16-2005, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 95 N2OT/A
go we to save N2O!!!!!!
I have a NX wet kit with a 100 shot and can get 50 1/8 mile runs to the 10 lb bottle
a friend has a dry 100 kit and only gets about 15 runs on the same track.
I have a NX wet kit with a 100 shot and can get 50 1/8 mile runs to the 10 lb bottle
a friend has a dry 100 kit and only gets about 15 runs on the same track.
11-16-2005, 01:54 PM
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I know he doesn't want torque. He posted his DYNO numbers and said his TQ is lower than that of a wet kit. I say next time he DYNOS it spray it all at once, I bet the TQ goes up.
11-16-2005, 02:38 PM
#37
Originally Posted by BuckWheat1
I know he doesn't want torque. He posted his DYNO numbers and said his TQ is lower than that of a wet kit. I say next time he DYNOS it spray it all at once, I bet the TQ goes up.
First stage on at 3000rpm in 1st gear, 2nd stg on at 4100rpm in 2nd and they are both combined before torque peak, but in 2nd instead all in first. Actually a car that spreads the torque out over the run (can be done with wet also) will generally see more wins than a one in all off the line torque monster hit. I will post my dyno after the 3rd stg is finished and will be able to show a longer maintained torque peak.
Now here is another aspect to the wet has more torque thing. Jet your dry to the same torque as a wet kit and you'll have more HP than the wet. the only down fall doing this is it takes more n2o for the dry concerning how effient the wet is with same amount of n2o. But for the benifits I have found I will stay with the dry.
Robert
11-16-2005, 03:02 PM
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even tho wet makes more HP and torque then Dry using same size Jets its still Easier on the MOTOR ROBBY hehe
i like my whomen wet but i preffer them to SUCK me DRY haha i allways love that 1
i like my whomen wet but i preffer them to SUCK me DRY haha i allways love that 1
11-17-2005, 01:11 AM
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see sig, as well
__________________
2001 Pewter TA WS6 M6 #4717
13:18 @115, 2.4sec - 60' Got Traction
Current mods:
SLP Flowpac + Exhaust = 348 hp 368tq
+ FM4 Cam (cutout open) = 375hp 370tq
+ N2O (dry/halo) = 465hp 513tq
i just dynoed my ss today with pacesetter longtube headers 3 inch x pipe dynomax bullets it oput down 316 hp and 321 ftlbs with an nx 100 wet shot it dynoed 410 hp and 444 ftlbs of torque. thursday we're getting it back on the dyno and we're gonna re jet it for either a 150 or a 175 shot and i'll post new numbers afterwards
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by 2000slpss : 08-23-2005 at 03:14 PM.
Did a little research and found these 2 examples of dry vs wet TQ.
As for the 50 1/8 mile runs with the NX kit vs 15 for the dry kit, that doesn't make any sense unless the wet kit is being sprayed for a shorter period of time than the dry kit during the 1/8th mile pass. All the nitrous manufacturers use nitrous jets that are within .02 jet sizes to make the same HP level. That small difference wouldn't account for 35 extra 1/8 mile passes.
__________________
2001 Pewter TA WS6 M6 #4717
13:18 @115, 2.4sec - 60' Got Traction
Current mods:
SLP Flowpac + Exhaust = 348 hp 368tq
+ FM4 Cam (cutout open) = 375hp 370tq
+ N2O (dry/halo) = 465hp 513tq
i just dynoed my ss today with pacesetter longtube headers 3 inch x pipe dynomax bullets it oput down 316 hp and 321 ftlbs with an nx 100 wet shot it dynoed 410 hp and 444 ftlbs of torque. thursday we're getting it back on the dyno and we're gonna re jet it for either a 150 or a 175 shot and i'll post new numbers afterwards
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by 2000slpss : 08-23-2005 at 03:14 PM.
Did a little research and found these 2 examples of dry vs wet TQ.
As for the 50 1/8 mile runs with the NX kit vs 15 for the dry kit, that doesn't make any sense unless the wet kit is being sprayed for a shorter period of time than the dry kit during the 1/8th mile pass. All the nitrous manufacturers use nitrous jets that are within .02 jet sizes to make the same HP level. That small difference wouldn't account for 35 extra 1/8 mile passes.