I've been through my first Dyno Tune with Nitrous. My car is an AT with a Yank SS3600 stall. The tuner wanted the window switch set 4000-4200 rpm during the tune. I don't think he is suggesting I race with his "window". I've always figured setting it just above stall at say 3800 rpm for on. What's the difference to the tuner?

 

im guessing that cause when juicing your stall is going to stall alot higher than that, like around the area he wanted to set the window.

 

I'm a little leary of spraying starting @ that high of R.P.M.. You're going to ramp up pretty quick. And on the Spray you're torque curve is going to be in the 5800-6000
R.P.M. range. You're limiting the N20 to 2000 R.P.M.?? Not wanting fight you're guy i'm just surprised.
Hawk

 

my nitrous kicks on @ 2800 but my stall is only 2600........

 

I'll edit my original post to say something like "for tuning purposes" not necessarily for "racing".

At least part of the reason I know is to be able to get the car up in RPM in D, above the stall, and to keep it from downshifting.

 

Try asking the tuner to base your shifts off R.P.M. The factory requires the rpm and mph to control shifts. If you lower the mph requirements for shift the PCM will use the
R.P.M. as the control feature. This combined with TPS requirements 75 % or greater position will help control the donshifting.
Hawk

 

We tried and tried to get the TPS to adjust for approx 3/4 (75%) throttle. I could get the TPS threshold to about 85 or 90 % of WOT. In fact I spoke with Courtnay at NitroDaves yesterday and ordered a WOT microswitch switch. I'm going to install it for next tune session and experiment with both activation methods. I'm used to the TPS sensor since my old Zex used it...(i'm probably *** backwards in so far as i've never used a WOT microswitch before). I'm starting to undersatnd all this better now...he never did "suffer" a down shift...he's very good at his job...i simply don't undersatnd much about the why's and wherefor's of tuning.
- Macon