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Problems with my new NXL fogger kit

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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Default Problems with my new NXL fogger kit

I finally got to test both of my nitrous kits and the TNT is working good but on the other hand my new NX NXL fogger system is flickering when I first hit it, it come on and off seversl times then it stayes on. I'm using Nitro Daves dedicated fuel system for my fogger.I checked my safety fuel pressure switch and it's set @ 4.5 psi and i have my pressure set to 8 psi. I also checked the ground on the switch and it flikers there too, so the onley thing that I can think of is that i have air on the line going to the fuel noids, I was thinking of installing small fuel returns on both fuel noids back to the fuel cell to get the air out, if any body has had this problem please post up any ideas I know dave an help me out so if you read this post dave please give me some pointer.

thanks
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:28 AM
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If you are having air pockets in the line that are big enough to drop pressure to the point at which the safety switch will cut the system off, then you should be able to see this drop with a pressure gauge. I don't think that is the problem though, so I woud suggest hooking a pressure gauge up and watching what it is doing while the fuel solenoid is open and fuel is flowing. This should rule out the air pockets causing your system to flicker. Have you tried taking the pressure switch out of the equation for testing purposes? I would suggest doing so if you havn't already. To test the system without the fuel pressure safety switch, just place a jumper wire from one contact to the other on the pressure switch. This is basically the same thing as taking the switch out of the wiring. Also, double check that the flowing fuel pressure is at the pressure that you think it as, as well as double check to make sure the cut-off pressure for the switch is what you think it is.

I am thinking that it is something electrical. Double check, and even triple check, all of the grounds and all of the connections. Are you using any accessory devices like a window switch, TPS switch, etc.?
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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i JUMPED THE FUEL SWITCH AND IT WORKS FINE, i ALSO CHECKED THE SWITCH WITH A TEST LIGHT AND STARTED TO LOWER FUEL PRESSURE UNTILL THE TEST LIGHT WOULD GO OFF AND IT GOES OFF RIGHT ABOUT 4.5 PSI AND MY PRESSURE WHEN IT FLIKERS IS SET TO 8 PSI BUT IT ONLEY DOES IT THE FIRST OR SECOND TIME THAT I HIT IT BUT IF I HIT IT LONG ENOUGH THE FIRST TIME IT WILL WORK FINE AFTER THAT.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
i JUMPED THE FUEL SWITCH AND IT WORKS FINE, i ALSO CHECKED THE SWITCH WITH A TEST LIGHT AND STARTED TO LOWER FUEL PRESSURE UNTILL THE TEST LIGHT WOULD GO OFF AND IT GOES OFF RIGHT ABOUT 4.5 PSI AND MY PRESSURE WHEN IT FLIKERS IS SET TO 8 PSI BUT IT ONLEY DOES IT THE FIRST OR SECOND TIME THAT I HIT IT BUT IF I HIT IT LONG ENOUGH THE FIRST TIME IT WILL WORK FINE AFTER THAT.
You need to figure out how to purge the air out of the line safely on the fuel side or see why its getting air in there.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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I was thinking of installing small fuel returns on both fuel noids back to the fuel cell to get the air out.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
I was thinking of installing small fuel returns on both fuel noids back to the fuel cell to get the air out.
that would fix your issue.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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This might be an expensive fix, but the new Lightning solenoids from NX have a purge/bypass port on the fuel solenoids. By using the Lightning fuel solenoids, basically fuel would free flow through the solenoid and you could use a hose to return it to the fuel cell. So the fuel would just free flow in a loop until you activated the solenoid. I know it's not much help for an immediate fix, but maybe something to think about in the future.

As far as your fuel pressure safety switch in concerned. With a low pressure setup like your's it would be best to have the FPSS mounted before the regulator and basically have it just monitor wether or not the fuel pump is working or not. The problem is that with low pressure tune ups the FPSS would need to be at approximately 2-2.5psi, which would do you a whole lot of good. And even though your gauge may not move, there will still be some amount of pressure drop when the solenoid is activated. The FPSS is very sensitive and can even be triggered by have the fuel pressure just get close to the cut-off setting of the switch.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1CANTU
i JUMPED THE FUEL SWITCH AND IT WORKS FINE, i ALSO CHECKED THE SWITCH WITH A TEST LIGHT AND STARTED TO LOWER FUEL PRESSURE UNTILL THE TEST LIGHT WOULD GO OFF AND IT GOES OFF RIGHT ABOUT 4.5 PSI AND MY PRESSURE WHEN IT FLIKERS IS SET TO 8 PSI BUT IT ONLEY DOES IT THE FIRST OR SECOND TIME THAT I HIT IT BUT IF I HIT IT LONG ENOUGH THE FIRST TIME IT WILL WORK FINE AFTER THAT.
The way you tested its set point if perfectly fine. But the fuel pressure pulses in the line until it stablizes. Think of that switch as on and offing until the lines fill up and stablizes. What you are see or feeling is the fuel pulse forcing the hobbs to bounce on and off. Even with bleeds you still will have an issue. The fuel pressure dropping from the noids opening, and the fpss being set to close... If you want to leave that switch there, just turn the set screw counter clockwise 1/2 round at a time. Test and retest until the problem goes away... At that point the fuel pulse or pressure drop is not great enough to trigger the hobbs...
Hope this helps.

One other thing that can be done is a time delay relay, allowing the hobbs only to be effective after a predetermined amount of time.

Ricky.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 01:08 AM
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Ricky,
That was my thoughts to...
Dave
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