We sell by far the most PRO Dry kits to the C5 guys and Z06 guys about 50/50. The maf on the Z06 is a 80mm and can handle the spray just fine. The key to successful dry is nozzle location for a good reading. We have most all air boxes figured out for optimum location. Here in the NW, most of the ls1/ls6 guys run dry kits and the MAF works flawlessly. I have never seen a issue with the MAF. Having the IAT in the MAF allows for a seperate tune for spraying only. there is a table Power Adder vs IAT that you can add a fuel multiplier at air temps you desire. Meaning, you log AIT and see the temps, which will be artic cold, then go to the above table and add a multiplier to this area and below. Then when spraying only, your power adder multiplier will be added to your normal WOT Power Enrichment Multiplier for the desired a/f on the spray and n/a a/f is not effected. Now with this said, on a smaller hit you will not need to do this as the MAF reads a dense/cold air stream from the n2o and is fooled into thinking there is more air than really is and goes to injector duty cycle and ups it for more fuel resulting in a richer a/f. I hope this is sort of clear and I will address any areas that may not make much sense if needed, or to further clarify.
Robert

 

good explanation. i knew how it worked tho. i was just saying, i heard that because the iat is in the maf it is effected so quickly by the n2o that the computer lags behind a tad, and could be an issue. if thats not the case, tell scott to hurry back to me with my price!!!

the car went 12.2 i bet with a 100 shot, 11.5's no problem
good for a street beater

 

I run a TNT 100 wet shot. Made 125rwhp and tons of tqe!
My #s on spray pre headers on a pretty much stock car were 493rwhp 565rwtq.
I should be around 500+rwhp and close to 600rwtq now with the longtubes.
My stock clutch is going but has held up pretty good on street abuse. Spraying for like half a year... and nowadays after 1 pass of juice 1-4 the clutch is hot. On 2nd pass it will stick...

So I say if your not going to spray often you should be fine for a while.


-Zee

 

Hurry up Scott.
Robert

 

and I have to add I powershifted the **** out of this clutch!!
Not on spray, did that once and realized I shouldnt LMAO!!

 

The torque tube is plenty strong enough.We run a hell of alot more through them and never had a failure.

The MA meter will be fine too.Nothing special about the 03Z MA meter.

Of course you'll need to put in bigger injectors like 42's and a voltage booster on the fuel pump for safety. The stock injectors run about 85-90% on a good tuned stock Z06 without spray.

 

People like to buy alot of stuff "just in case" but you don't really need anything to run a small 100-125 dry shot. I'm doing it on stock plugs and stock timing. I understand that's the safe limit and don't plan on pushing it any farther. One thing I learnt is the clutch will freak if you powershift on the spray. Works fine if you lift a bit on the shift.

 

That's why I run a window sw. Then I stay out of slamming the gears with mondo torque. I have mine set at 3000rpm on and 6400rpm off and shift at 6500/6700rpm. I also raised limiter to 6800rpm, but once in a while bounced off it, so now it's at 7000rpm. No lifting here, even when crossing up. hehehehehehe My 11.04 run below in sig was on a 125 dry in dual stage and I honestly believe it would have been a 10.xx run if I would not have hit limiter going into 4th (.100 loss average). The Z06 is a beast, right out of the box.
Robert

 

Yea I run a window switch also. I have mine to hit a 3200 and off and 6400. I have my limiter set at 6800 also.

I just NEED a clutch on the spray period. The stock one will go sooner or later no matter how easy you shift lol. TOO MUCH TQE!!