Hey all:

Well I have read so many post on this and still have not got my answer on this matter. Just maybe this post will shed some light for me.

I have a NX wet system and have heard back and forth on what a purge really does for the system.

Is it for only show and to help to be a little more consistent on the track?
OR
Can not purgeing cause fuel to puddle and possible damage to the intake and so on?

I would apperciate true facts and not what you think it may or may not due.

It will only cost a little money to hook it up but I will only do it if its really benificial and not for show.

Thanks

 

I have a purge on my direct port. It will serve the same purpose for you that it does for me. to answer your questions,
first:Is it for only show and to help to be a little more consistent on the track?
Wasting nitrous on show purging is just that a waste.
consistancy is a part of it. lets first look at how and what really happens when we purge. After a bottle change the line is devoid of nitrous liquid and any pressure. when we open the bottle nitrous liquid from the bottle enters the line until the pressure in the bottle and the pressure in the line equalize. at that point we purge until we see a good stream of liquid present. This tells us that when we engage the nitrous we will have an immediate hit of liquid. consistancy and maybe more importantly a harder hit. If we had not purged we would have had a lag between when the nitrous soleniod opened and when the LIQUID nitrous hit the nozzle. In addition during the time that only nitrous gas was coming out there would have been fuel coming out causeing the car to go pig rich and bogging.
Now why purge after the bottle has been changed? once the kit has been fired you have nitrous up to the soleniod. The underhood temperature can cause the nitrous in the lines to make the phase change from a liquid to a vapor (raising the vapor pressure) in the same way that a bottle heater works. It is a very small volume so it doesnt make a noticable difference in the overall system pressure but it does happen. so again purging every run insures a uniform quality stream of liquid at the solenoid.
As far as puddling I dont believe thats an issue. remember when you open the valve the pressure equalizes in the system, the pressure is no higher nor any lower if you have purged liquid all the way to the soleniod or not. in other words say you have your heater set at 1050psi and you did not purge. when you fire the kit there is a 1050psi stream of compressed gas atomizing the fuel which may or may not be as effective as a stream of liquid might be but it should be more than enough to atomize the fuel. In closing IMHO a purge is a must for a wet kit of any kind.

 

It helps with consistancy. It is VERY easy to purge a bottle from a high pressure to the one you need. say you left the heater on to long or it is a hot day. Pressure has climbed to 1200Psi. Purging the bottle will release the high pressure AND cool the bottle off bringing the pressure in line fast between the burnout and the staging lights

for the most part I would have to say it is for consistancy and to get the most out of your kit every run be it a wet or dry kit

 

I had this thought before about not purging.

You know how with a wet kit we have the lean spike when it first gets hit because the nitrous line is under much more PSI than the fuel line, so the nitrous makes it to the intake manifold before the fuel does, so it goes lean for an instant. I thnik that by not purging you could cut this lean spike down a lot since there will be mostly gaseous nitrous going into the intake which really does nothing so that will give the fuel time to catch up before any liquid nitrous gets to the manifold.. I havent proven it on a dyno yet but maybe ill try one day for ***** and giggles.

Anyway purging is good because it allows for a harder, sooner hit along with being more consistent. And it looks cool.

 

can this be added over to the nitrous FAQ ?

 

The ricer show isn't neccessary at all.
A quick purge into the running engine in staging or during the burnout will do the job for consistancy. There is no excuse for the big clouds shooting up out of the hood. That's just

 

But it does look cool though I thought you were a "ricer" anyway.

 

another reason i purge after im done spraying is to take the pressure off the nitrous solenoid.
nitrous is way to expensive to blow into the air for fun.

 

a dry kit with a machine gun purge and blue led is for show. lol

but getting air out is one thing, and it alows you to maintain a consistant bottle pressure there for keeping you consistant, and keeping your tune up the same.
if your on the edge with a tune up tested at 950 psi, and one pass you dont purge and the bottle is 1200 psi, you will lean out.
pretty much the above statments are right on.

 

And now you have the true facts. And they're the very best kind.

 

This is Easily adjusted with fuel and N2O line length's Shorter fuel line less spike To short and fuel hits first going Rich.

 

yeah i know, but mine is pretty short and it still spikes lean.