Wondering about #7.
here is something that will complicate things a little more here.
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
Cat, yes N/A guys do have problems with #7 espec in the road racing circles. The problem is heat and resulting detonation. A simple cure for this issue is to use pre ls6 intake steam tubes to help cool things down (they will fit with minor grinding).
Ricky, if you take the above as a consideration, wouldn't riching that clylinder help with cooling?
Possibly we have a lean condition and a heat/detonation problem and thus the #7 issues.
Robert
Ricky, if you take the above as a consideration, wouldn't riching that clylinder help with cooling?
Possibly we have a lean condition and a heat/detonation problem and thus the #7 issues.
Robert
Originally Posted by SSwanner
here is something that will complicate things a little more here.
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
Robert
i tell ya what, i use my predator to monotor the coolant temp. which is right by #1, i am installing a autometer coolant temp gauge which will be at #8. it will take a week or so before its running but i can/will monotor the differences at the same time between the two readings. that could help, or give some good info.
after that i will probably put a cross over tube on the rear, like the one on the front with the ls6 intake and see if that changes anything too.
after that i will probably put a cross over tube on the rear, like the one on the front with the ls6 intake and see if that changes anything too.
Originally Posted by Robert56
Not to answer for Ricky, but the blow torch effect can happen in any cylinder or combination of cylinders. Guys post all the time with their plugs melted all on one bank, and some both banks, so maybe this is a totally different issue? Ricky?
Robert
Robert
no prob man, i was just wandering if he though i could have had the nozzle turned slightly to one side to make it do this.
Sswanner other than having a lot of detonation which is evident looking at your plugs...your gap is way to wide. Those plugs are stocked at .035" gap, and general ROT is you shouldnt need to open, or close a plug more than .005", if you do there is probably a different plug for you to run. With 175, on TR6 plugs I would run something more along the lines of .035"-.032* gap. Timing might have been a little high as well, looking at the middle plug, last pic, the timing mark is almost at the face of the plug (bottom connecting point of the grounding strap). Too much advance will melt your plug, and give you all that detonation you see on the plugs facing and porcelain. Either raise the octane or lower the timing and try it again w/ plugs at tighter gap.
Robert, sorry never seen, or heard of these seamless intakes. Also, I do think the leaning is the major problem, which is also raising temps in the that cyl as an after effect.
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Robert, sorry never seen, or heard of these seamless intakes. Also, I do think the leaning is the major problem, which is also raising temps in the that cyl as an after effect.
Robert
Originally Posted by CAT3
Sswanner other than having a lot of detonation which is evident looking at your plugs...your gap is way to wide. Those plugs are stocked at .035" gap, and general ROT is you shouldnt need to open, or close a plug more than .005", if you do there is probably a different plug for you to run. With 175, on TR6 plugs I would run something more along the lines of .035"-.032* gap. Timing might have been a little high as well, looking at the middle plug, last pic, the timing mark is almost at the face of the plug (bottom connecting point of the grounding strap). Too much advance will melt your plug, and give you all that detonation you see on the plugs facing and porcelain. Either raise the octane or lower the timing and try it again w/ plugs at tighter gap.
yea, i did the plugs @ .050" for the break in on the motor. i sprayed a 100 shot on it a few times and it ran great. then on a spur of the moment grudge match i slapped the 175's in her and it ran good till about 1/2 way through 3rd
but i still beat/drug a 383lt1 on a 200 shot
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Originally Posted by SSwanner
here is something that will complicate things a little more here.
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
NXRicky
the last time i sprayed my car (new 370) with the 175 NX wet single nozzle, 25* timing, TR6's @ .050" gap, 11.2:1 c/r....i melted #6 plug, all the rest of them looked fine. yes i know this was a kinda wild/extreme setup but it was a last min. grudge match.
can you give me any thoughts on this?
175hp 25timing, 50gap and 11.2.
Now why it attacked #6
several reason could have been. If the heads were ported or casting the cylinder had a hot spot. once detenation starts it is self feeding. meaning the only way to stop it is detune via shutdown the hp demands.
TR6 plugs as good as they are are still a street plug 150 or less hp.
Bad rings got a little oil in the hole.
So many possiblities, see every engine is different. Every one of them. They are just like people no two are same, even if you use the same parts they are still different.
The leason is since you know you had a problem with #6, do not repeat or else #6 will go again.
Less timing knock it down. gap the plugs closer to 35 and use good gas.
By the way what gas where you using.?
Ricky
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Lets begin with the problem
175hp 25timing, 50gap and 11.2.
Now why it attacked #6
several reason could have been. If the heads were ported or casting the cylinder had a hot spot. once detenation starts it is self feeding. meaning the only way to stop it is detune via shutdown the hp demands.
TR6 plugs as good as they are are still a street plug 150 or less hp.
Bad rings got a little oil in the hole.
So many possiblities, see every engine is different. Every one of them. They are just like people no two are same, even if you use the same parts they are still different.
The leason is since you know you had a problem with #6, do not repeat or else #6 will go again.
Less timing knock it down. gap the plugs closer to 35 and use good gas.
By the way what gas where you using.?
Ricky
175hp 25timing, 50gap and 11.2.
Now why it attacked #6
several reason could have been. If the heads were ported or casting the cylinder had a hot spot. once detenation starts it is self feeding. meaning the only way to stop it is detune via shutdown the hp demands.
TR6 plugs as good as they are are still a street plug 150 or less hp.
Bad rings got a little oil in the hole.
So many possiblities, see every engine is different. Every one of them. They are just like people no two are same, even if you use the same parts they are still different.
The leason is since you know you had a problem with #6, do not repeat or else #6 will go again.
Less timing knock it down. gap the plugs closer to 35 and use good gas.
By the way what gas where you using.?
Ricky
thanks, its going for a full dyno tune on the 3rd (200+ shot
) and all the stuff will be right then.i was running the good ole pump 93 at that time
the heads are patriot stg. III's so they *should be exactly the same, rings are filed at .030" gap for a LOT of n2o also
its pretty much a pure n2o motor and thats what i'm gonna do to it Robert, *I slap forehead* excuse entered: I'm on Roxicet and words tend to look alike Kidney stones are no joke 
Ricky, good reading as always...I wish everyone would realize what works for me, may not for you, etc...too many times I see the "this is the way it has to be" BS.
Kidney stones are no joke Ricky, good reading as always...I wish everyone would realize what works for me, may not for you, etc...too many times I see the "this is the way it has to be" BS.
could be. That graph was from idling for about 2 minutes, full burnout and then a full 1/4 mile pass. The red line is rpm. You can see the 7200 rpm clutch dump and the 7150 shifts.
So its not sustained like running around for an hour and then spraying hard.
So its not sustained like running around for an hour and then spraying hard.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
I never noticed a difference on #7 temp wise NA atleast. Or on juice with the direct port. I nver got to get any EGT's with a regular single nozzle setup.
Hmmmm... Very interesting. I've seen as much as a 300 degree difference between the front two cylinders and the rear two cylinders on big CID engines using a (front of Intake mounted T/B)... I have some projects coming on line in a month or so and if I can figure out how to post a EGT data logger graph from a chassis Dyno run I'll do it...
Till then.
Al, thats pretty neat how the odd bank is hotter than the even at lower scale, then as it runs it out the even appears to overtake the odd banks in temps.. Al, if you have time, could you pull that screenshot back up, and select only the front pair, then next pair etc...to compare cylinders by pairing as they go front to rear? I know it would take redoing that 4 times, but might be interesting enough to me Thanks either way.
Charlie
Thanks either way. Charlie
I'd say that having the same size injectors flow benched, say a regualr off teh shelf set of 42 lb'ers and just take the heaviest injector and sticking it in #7 will probably help the issue, next heaviest in the back cylinder on the passengers side (#8 I would assume)
Originally Posted by CAT3
Sswanner other than having a lot of detonation which is evident looking at your plugs...your gap is way to wide. Those plugs are stocked at .035" gap, and general ROT is you shouldnt need to open, or close a plug more than .005", if you do there is probably a different plug for you to run. With 175, on TR6 plugs I would run something more along the lines of .035"-.032* gap. Timing might have been a little high as well, looking at the middle plug, last pic, the timing mark is almost at the face of the plug (bottom connecting point of the grounding strap). Too much advance will melt your plug, and give you all that detonation you see on the plugs facing and porcelain. Either raise the octane or lower the timing and try it again w/ plugs at tighter gap.