1998 M6 Camaro LS1

Project: Budget 10 flat, daily driver.

Wheels/tires: Weld Prostars/Mickey drag radials-$700
Cam: TSP 231/237 Magic Stick-$150
Shifter: Pro 5.0-$150
Lifters: Rhodes-$150
Springs: Comp Behive-$150
Rockers: Comp Mags-$150
Pushrods: Comp Hardened-$100
Clutch: Spec stage 3-$250
Flywheel: Ram-$200
Torque arm: S&W-$200
Nitrous: TnT Dual stage 100/100 split shot-$450
Headers: Pacesetter-$300
Cage: Wolf racecraft-$250
Fuel: Walbro 255-$100
Rear: Strange 12-bolt-$1000
Gears: strange 4.10s-$100
electronics: Nitrous timing tuner-$200
suspention: Spawn lower control arms, drag bar-$250, V6 springs-$50
Misc:$100

Car:$7000
Total:$5000
Car Total:$12,000


obviously there are a few things I forgot to put like a nitrous driveshaft and stuff like that.

just wondering what the cam only power-adder record is?

can this be done with a dual stage or progressive 200 shot to help keep the motor alive?

how much can the stock t56 take?

thanks

 

your prices are off. And some of those parts wont work. Such as the Spec stage 3. Its not gonna get you a 10.0 flat unless the planets are aligned...and it certainly wont do it twice. Unless you did extensive weight reduction. Ram can get you a clutch that will get you a 10 and the McCloed twin disc can do it as well. I dont know about some of the new multi discs or the Textralia. Any clutch up to the task is going to cosy around $750+++ And it likley wont last but a few track trips.

Skip the rockers and lifters and stick with stock pieces.
Cam will be more than $150 likely plus install
Even a used 12 bolt will be $2000 plus install
gears???are you going to install them yourself?

Even with all that your looking at mid to high 10s unless you up the juice,lighten the car, or can drive like hell. 10.6-10.9 is not too hard on a budget with the right parts. But 10.0 is in another catagory and takes some slightly better parts, more attention to details, and more juice.

 

this is just a quick thing I came up with, im in Iraq and dont even have another f-body yet. Just planning a cam only nitrous car for f-body #4.

I know the prices are a little low, as I want this to be a budget build and most parts will be used or searched for extencively for a cheap price, I knew the clutch was going to be off as im am not familiar with 6-speeds too well, mostly autos.

weight reduction is going to be a big part of the equation as well.

would anyone suggest going th-350 over 6-speed. again I am wanting to go mid to low 10s, cam only, or possible a truck head swap, no aftermarket heads and still be daily driven.

also anyone suggest a different cam for stock heads and a ton of spray, or for truck heads and spray?

By biggest thing is I want the motor to stay alive on a big shot like this. I recently learned about the beninfits of dual stage and progressive shots, and I know tuning will be a huge thing also.

I have seen a bunch of people doin cam only 200 shots and though hey with the right combo a cam only spray car can really put some #s down.

 

You can run a low 10 with your plan of a cam only spray car if you go with an auto.

I had a stock cam only longblock SS with a Th400, el cheapo exhaust, dry shot, LS1 intake, 228/234 cam and lots of weight reduction that went 10.3 or so at 130 on a 150 shot dry.
It will be alot easier to achive that way. But it will be less of a dialy driver. I think if you used a 4l60 built buy a few good tranny builders you could do low 10s and still be very dialy drivable on a budget.

keep reading and keep posting and youll see the recipe.

 

thats for that info, I know it would prolly be alot easier with an auto, but I would really like to explore the 6-speed world, ive had an lt1 6-speed with boltons and 150 shot and loved it for the month I had it.

I think the motor and suspention part of the plan is pretty close other than the lifters, rockers and cam. Can I get away with using the stock lifters and rockers? I figured I could make a little extra Hp out of the rockers and prevent valve float up top with a nice set of lifters, again I would like to keep this motor running for a while to show people that it can be done, and get away with having a racecar that my wife could drive to work.

Ive also been throwning around a bunch of ideas in my head such as a stand alone fuel sys for the nitrous, different variations of dual stages mixed with a progressive controler. Example, ramping the first 100 shot in and overlapping the second 100shot so the hardest hit would be the initial hit of the ramp which woud be like a 75shot. not just hitting a 100 shot then another 100. The way I see it, with a 6-speed shifting with a dual stage, your still hitting the motor with 8, 100 shot torque spikes on a 200 shot. ramping both stages would be much softer on the motor and drivetrain.

So would it be worth it to ramp a 2 stage as ive described of would that lose to much e.t. I know this would have to be a quick ramp to get both stages in but would it be worth it or am I safe with just regular 100/100 dual stage?


Now this is the crazy idea ive been thinking about today. Take the same setup as ive described but only a 100 shot, add 42Lb injectors and run Methanol instead of gasoline. I think a walbro 255 should be able to feed a methanol ls1. This would strictly be for track use unless methanol gets cheap enough to make up for the extra fuel needed to burn. Making it the same price as gasoline. I would have an alternate tune on ls1edit for street use on gasoline.


thankyou for your help
Ross

 

your crazy to use a progessive controller on a 100/100 shot. waste of money. just run them them both and get a timer or delay box. and i wouldn't mess with methanol. not worth it on the small shot. and i'm not too sure it's reliable either.

 

again the progressive controler is to be soft on the motor. The more I think about it the better it sounds, why not use one, youll only lose a few tenths in the 1/4 and you are much easier on parts. Another big thing is this will be done on the stock 6-speed just upgeaded clutch flywheel and pressure plate.

I am very curious about running straight methanol though, no gasoline.

anybody ever tried this?