Still Surging (Guru's inside Please)
When's the last time you changed your fuel filter? If it's dropping to 52ish that you see, maybe a delivery problem that is only seen under heaviest load/demand, like when spraying above a certain rpm. A return and regulator at the rails will stop your fuel press drop. My thoughts are if ignition related you will see the issue at wot while pulling a nice hill when not spraying (get the rpms up), try it.
Robert
Robert
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Originally Posted by Robert56
When's the last time you changed your fuel filter? If it's dropping to 52ish that you see, maybe a delivery problem that is only seen under heaviest load/demand, like when spraying above a certain rpm. A return and regulator at the rails will stop your fuel press drop. My thoughts are if ignition related you will see the issue at wot while pulling a nice hill when not spraying (get the rpms up), try it.
Robert
Robert
Originally Posted by IMPULSE.ACTIONS
Should I be looking for knock or what on this hill? I have not seen any problems running w/o nitrous on hard pulls and 1/4 times are the same as they were before the surging issue.
Robert
Try this, run leads from the solenoids to a hand held volt meter in the car. Have a buddy ride along with you and see if you are getting a constant 12 V to the noids. I had a similar problem and I could see the solenoids not getting a steady 12 V.
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Originally Posted by calongo_SS
Try this, run leads from the solenoids to a hand held volt meter in the car. Have a buddy ride along with you and see if you are getting a constant 12 V to the noids. I had a similar problem and I could see the solenoids not getting a steady 12 V.
My problem was a bad window switch. It would hit soft and surge up top. I could see it start at 6 v, and then go up ~13v and start cycleing between 6 & 13 v. Once I took the window switch off it held a constant 13 v, and hit like a ****.
It's worth a shot.
Did you buy the kit new or used? If it's used I bet NX will flow test your feed line and the other peices to tell you if there's something in one of the lines.
Have you opened up the bottle to see if the siphon tube is facing the way you think it is/make sure there is no junk in the bottle?
It's worth a shot.
Did you buy the kit new or used? If it's used I bet NX will flow test your feed line and the other peices to tell you if there's something in one of the lines.
Have you opened up the bottle to see if the siphon tube is facing the way you think it is/make sure there is no junk in the bottle?
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Originally Posted by calongo_SS
My problem was a bad window switch. It would hit soft and surge up top. I could see it start at 6 v, and then go up ~13v and start cycleing between 6 & 13 v. Once I took the window switch off it held a constant 13 v, and hit like a ****.
It's worth a shot.
It's worth a shot.
Did you buy the kit new or used?
Have you opened up the bottle to see if the siphon tube is facing the way you think it is/make sure there is no junk in the bottle?
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From: Kona, Pearl Ridge
Originally Posted by IMPULSE.ACTIONS
-tested w/ only feed line (no pressure sensor, filter, etc.)?
Originally Posted by IMPULSE.ACTIONS
Fuel pressure is never below 52ish.
Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on what I could be experiencing or over-looking?
Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on what I could be experiencing or over-looking?
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Originally Posted by chris.shea
this is the nitrous side right?
have you checked your Fuel pressure safety switch? your fuel pressure may be "safe" but if the switch is set to 56psi it will cut nitrous till pressure is gained back to "it's safe setting" it will surge cause the pump builds the pressure right back once the nitrous is cut and then gets taxed hard and cuts the nitrous off cycling itself.
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okay my thoughts:
run the Basic kit ...confirm throttle switch is on at wot
-keep the system as is and run race fuel.. this will determine if you had knock and was causing the surge.
-if still surges get a wide band and go on the road and test to see if it's too rich. or lean spike
-if still surges i will let know how I test the noids.
run the Basic kit ...confirm throttle switch is on at wot
-keep the system as is and run race fuel.. this will determine if you had knock and was causing the surge.
-if still surges get a wide band and go on the road and test to see if it's too rich. or lean spike
-if still surges i will let know how I test the noids.
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From: Kona, Pearl Ridge
Originally Posted by Robert56
It is real hard to do diagnostics on the internet, and I would look for a good tuner/dyno guy and find the issue. Good luck and keep us updated.
Robert
Robert
i always look for the simple things that can be overlooked. everyone else has mentioned everything else possible. 
I don't know if this will help or not, but mine was doing the same exact thing when I got it (I think it is the reason I got the car as cheap as I did)! I checked everything and tried running race fuel, bigger pump, replaced the fp dampening device on the fuel rail, different pills in the window switch, bypassed the fpss, EVERYTHING!!!! I was thinking about ordering a new kit and I started looking to see how the kit was wired up, and I noticed it was different from how i wired up kits in the past...the previous owner wired the relay to control the power side of the noids and basically the relay was getting hot at higher rpms because you had been pulling it for a while and opening the circuit taking power away from the noids. So I would say check to make sure it is wired properly and see if it feels like the kit is actually shutting off or just not pulling as hard as it should. I think hooking a volt-meter to the noids would be a good idea to. Like I said, I don't know if it will help or not but that fixed my surging problem.
Originally Posted by IMPULSE.ACTIONS
When the surging was going on it would show about 1.5-2 knock and maybe pull 1-1,5 degrees of timing.
Robert
