DID search & read sticky! NOS install ??
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: LaPorte, Texas
DID search & read sticky! NOS install ?? 
Since I am broke and cant afford LT's & such 
I am breaking out the NOS dry kit that I removed 4yrs ago. (was going to sell car but couldnt do it) One of the operators at my plant bought a 05 vette. I have heard nothing but how he is going to pack my a$$ since he gave his life's savings (401K) for down payment. 
I understand that those cars make awsome power and even with the spary he may still get out on me. 
1. I am going to buy two 30amp relays from Radio Shack. One for purge the other for NOS. Can I ground the relay's to the same bolt? I am sure I can ground the solinoids to the same bolt. (do I really need a relay for the purge? It should only be used for a second or two.)
2. What is a good Switched 12v power sorce for the main arming switch? Switch will be located in the console or ash tray.
3. Can I use the same bolt to ground the purge button and arming switch some place in the console?
4. The relays will be hidden under the hood of course, so what is a good switchable 12v power sorce for them? Can I use the alternator? Please give me some other options.....
5. The relay's, can I bolt them to the same switchable power post?
I wish I knew more about this basic install, but I have tried to search for hours so as not to bother anybody with these basic questions.
Just as a side note, I am making this mod totally stealth. The ***** in the armor is putting the nozzle under the air lid shaft before the MAF. If anybody gets down low they can see the NOS nozzle shaft between the lid and the base. If it is stabbed through filter, then they just have to look into my ram air, and it is even easyer to see.
Has anybody used 1/8" black line? It is used on bikes. It looks like wire and is very clean. If so what will it flow, I mean will it support a 125shot?
Thanks in advance
Bobby
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
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1. Yes you can ground them to the same bolt, but make sure each relay gets it's own ground wire to that bolt (assuming you're using something small like 18 or 16 awg). However, I'm not sure if 30A relays will suffice. What purge? What kit is this? NOS, like in your sig or something else? Different solenoids require different amperages.
2. I didn't like any of the existing ones so I "made" my own +12V switched source... maybe find a fat pink wire**.
3. Yes.
4. That alternator is not switched! It goes directly to the + terminal on the battery and therefore is always active. Find a fat pink wire**.
5. That depends on what terminal on the relay you're referring to.
Black bike line? never used it, I don't know what the inner diameter is, or what it's tolerances are (i.e. pressure & temperature ratings), nor do I know if there are any sleeves or b-nuts to help you hook it up to your AN fittings. Plenty of vendors can supply you with loom, black nylon covered braided lines, black lines, small nylon lines (like that used in the NOSzle kit), etc. If it were me, I'd just buy some of their ****.
**In my car, the pink wires I tested were switched, that is, when the key was in the on position, current would flow. I tested this with a voltometer (I think that's what it is). I suggest test your connections too! Nothing sucks more than wiring everything up just to not have it work.
2. I didn't like any of the existing ones so I "made" my own +12V switched source... maybe find a fat pink wire**.
3. Yes.
4. That alternator is not switched! It goes directly to the + terminal on the battery and therefore is always active. Find a fat pink wire**.
5. That depends on what terminal on the relay you're referring to.
Black bike line? never used it, I don't know what the inner diameter is, or what it's tolerances are (i.e. pressure & temperature ratings), nor do I know if there are any sleeves or b-nuts to help you hook it up to your AN fittings. Plenty of vendors can supply you with loom, black nylon covered braided lines, black lines, small nylon lines (like that used in the NOSzle kit), etc. If it were me, I'd just buy some of their ****.
**In my car, the pink wires I tested were switched, that is, when the key was in the on position, current would flow. I tested this with a voltometer (I think that's what it is). I suggest test your connections too! Nothing sucks more than wiring everything up just to not have it work.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: LaPorte, Texas
thank, you did help me out. I will test all connections. like you, I dont like leaving anything to chance.
the 1/8" NOS line is usually used on drag bikes and such. I have seen it used on f-body's before, but I dont know how much it flows. There are AN fittings that attachs to it. A friend of mine (many years ago) used it as a two stage set-up. 100 shot at the WOT switch and 25 extra (if needed) with button coming out of the ash tray. He never took his car to the dyno because at the time I had a auto tap to give us a ball park figure. He was leaning out so we put is MAF screen back in and everything lined out perfect. Like I said that was over 5yrs ago! sorry.
I do not have any idea of what kit I have, but I can tell you that the purge solinoid has larger (regular size wire) and the NOS solinoid has small diameter wire.
My car is pretty quick, so I think if set up with a single blue shark nozzle using a #052 or 67 pill I should pull on that 05 LS2 vette.... I hope!
Man those LS2's make some tope end power!!
Thanks and any further advice is appreciated!!
the 1/8" NOS line is usually used on drag bikes and such. I have seen it used on f-body's before, but I dont know how much it flows. There are AN fittings that attachs to it. A friend of mine (many years ago) used it as a two stage set-up. 100 shot at the WOT switch and 25 extra (if needed) with button coming out of the ash tray. He never took his car to the dyno because at the time I had a auto tap to give us a ball park figure. He was leaning out so we put is MAF screen back in and everything lined out perfect. Like I said that was over 5yrs ago!
sorry. I do not have any idea of what kit I have, but I can tell you that the purge solinoid has larger (regular size wire) and the NOS solinoid has small diameter wire.
My car is pretty quick, so I think if set up with a single blue shark nozzle using a #052 or 67 pill I should pull on that 05 LS2 vette.... I hope!
Man those LS2's make some tope end power!!
Thanks and any further advice is appreciated!!
I have my nozzel under the lid infront of the MAF- you cant see it
I have let guys w/ LS1s look for my kit- I had to show them- the only way i can see it is if i lift up on the neck of my airlid to seperate it from the radiator cover-
theres nothing stopping you from painting your line and connections w/ a little krylon-
your switched wires are usually pink- mine came from behind the fuse block
I have let guys w/ LS1s look for my kit- I had to show them- the only way i can see it is if i lift up on the neck of my airlid to seperate it from the radiator cover-
theres nothing stopping you from painting your line and connections w/ a little krylon-
your switched wires are usually pink- mine came from behind the fuse block
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: LaPorte, Texas
another question I have enough line,spray nozzles, & pills to run a one silonoid "T" with dual lines and nozzles coming off of it. Is there any benefit to doing this over just one silonoid and one nozzle?
(It is understood that smaller pills will have to be used to = the same hp as one larger pill.)
I am thinking of putting them side by side under the lid colar. I can use some weather stripping around the backside of my MTI lid and under the colar and just say my lid will not seal up good.
That should look tasteful and keep my stealth.
Also, I am going to put the bottle behind the drivers seat so that I can just reach down with my left hand and open it. I am 6' 2" so the seat is all the way back and the bottle is not exposed if the windows are up. I already painted and clear coated the bottle a dark hammered steal color to get rid of any bling factor. (stealth bottle
)
Next week after I am done doing all research and stupid question asking I will start the install. I plan on taking my time and really trying to come up with ways to hide this system as best I can. I only wish I had the money to purchase the "Money Maker" system from Dave. I get a little tear in my eye everytime I think about a direct port stealth system!!
Thanks and please answer my duel nozzle question if you have any experiance or just input.
(It is understood that smaller pills will have to be used to = the same hp as one larger pill.)
I am thinking of putting them side by side under the lid colar. I can use some weather stripping around the backside of my MTI lid and under the colar and just say my lid will not seal up good.
That should look tasteful and keep my stealth. Also, I am going to put the bottle behind the drivers seat so that I can just reach down with my left hand and open it. I am 6' 2" so the seat is all the way back and the bottle is not exposed if the windows are up. I already painted and clear coated the bottle a dark hammered steal color to get rid of any bling factor. (stealth bottle
) Next week after I am done doing all research and stupid question asking I will start the install. I plan on taking my time and really trying to come up with ways to hide this system as best I can. I only wish I had the money to purchase the "Money Maker" system from Dave. I get a little tear in my eye everytime I think about a direct port stealth system!!
Thanks and please answer my duel nozzle question if you have any experiance or just input.
No advantage i can see- I just went single nozzle- easier to hide, less chance of being found-
Use a volt meter before you hook anything up- dont just assume a pink wire will do it-
If you are going stealth- dont use a purge- kind of a giveaway unless you find away to hide the cloud and sound... A dry kit does not need to purge like a wet kit does- worst case if you dont purge- the initial hit wont be as strong- sounds like a good way to reduce spin off of launch-
If you do want fresh like you had purged- spray while you do the burnout to heat the tires, will clear the lines just as good and people wont notice
Use a volt meter before you hook anything up- dont just assume a pink wire will do it-
If you are going stealth- dont use a purge- kind of a giveaway unless you find away to hide the cloud and sound... A dry kit does not need to purge like a wet kit does- worst case if you dont purge- the initial hit wont be as strong- sounds like a good way to reduce spin off of launch-
If you do want fresh like you had purged- spray while you do the burnout to heat the tires, will clear the lines just as good and people wont notice
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: LaPorte, Texas
anybody else want to chime in? Please address first questions and also the second about duel nozzle with single silonid.
As far as purging, it would not be a problem to make a race and while driving down the road to a start point, give it a few bumps. I plan to set the purge and solinoids up under the radiator braket. That gives me a nice short shot after purge and I only have to use about 12" of line to nozzle. anybody have a picture of a bracket to hang my solinoids on? Thanks
As far as purging, it would not be a problem to make a race and while driving down the road to a start point, give it a few bumps. I plan to set the purge and solinoids up under the radiator braket. That gives me a nice short shot after purge and I only have to use about 12" of line to nozzle. anybody have a picture of a bracket to hang my solinoids on? Thanks
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