Just got my bottle filled. All I need to do is wire the purge and bottle heater and I'm set. I have everything done. The window switch is set to 3,000 RPM activation and 5,800 RPM deactivation with a 6,200 RPM rev. limit. I'm not using the "gear lock out" feature. I tested the solenoids and make sure they aren't leaking, stuck open, or damaged. All of that was fine. What are some other things I should double check before I spray, and do you guys recommend that I spray out of the hole or in 2nd gear? It's an A4.

I've had the timing retarded, right now I have a 100HP shot in, going up to a 150 HP shot soon.

 

Not sure how....but make sure window swithc is working properly? And isnt 5.8k kind of high? When does your car shift? Seems that is liek right at the shift point or after a little bit??

 

Not sure when the car shifts. I know the window switch is working properly. I've had my shift points increased, and the rev. limiter set higher. Since I have an A4, I can spray through shifts. The 6,200 RPM limiter gave me some room because of the lag from the shifting from the nitrous being used, so I'm not bouncing off it.

 

Alright, well jsut because you have an A4 doesnt make it perfectly alright to spray through your shifts...not saying it will break anything, but messing with trans stuff = $$$ lol....Your trans isnt really used to that extra 100hp your about to put through it...but hey,peopel do it all the time i guess....

 

I have a new 4L60E. The trans isn't hardcore, but it's newly built with about 10k miles on it. I should be alright.

 

You will most likely toast your trans before too long if you're spraying through the shifts. On the other hand, it's easier on the motor to spray through shifts rather than on/off/on/off/on thoughout a run.

 

I don't plan on spraying more than once or twice a week. What are some things to check over? Any recommended system tests w/o actually spraying when i'm driving to make sure it's good to go?

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge or a wideband?
I would at the very least rig up some kind of a FP gauge the first time you spray it.
If the noids click when you put power to them everything should be ready to go provided you wired everything up right.

 

I did a test with the bottle empty, the solenoids clicked. I do not have a wideband/FP gauge installed. I had my fuel pressure looked at today and it was good to go...I will be investing in one sometime soon.

I'm still confused how I should wire the purge. Not sure if I want a constant or switched source. I'm thinking switched, but not sure where to tap it into.

 

momentary push button is the way to go with a purge. I used the power wire from the cig lighter for the purge.

 

I have a push button for the purge. I have the arming switch tapped into the cigarette lighter and do not want to blow a fuse, not sure what the amp rating on the cigarette lighter is. I'm not sure which wire goes where, both of them are black. In that case, I'm sure I just need to put 1 wire to the cigarette lighter, and the other to a ground. Not sure how I wire that with the purge solenoid.

I'm probably going to wire the solenoid wire to 1 wire on the button, the other to a ground, then have a wire spliced into the solenoids feed wire to a constant power source, which will be the cigarette lighter.

 

Install a fuel pressure guage. Turn the nitrous bottle off and purge the line. Go out and make some runs spraying extra fuel only and monitor the fuel pressure guage. If you lose fuel pressure, don't spray the nitrous or you WILL damage the engine if it runs lean. You will bog the engine but it's better to be safe.

 

I remember one of the wires being orange in my car.

 

Yeah, it's orange. That's where my arming switch is tapped into. But I'm not sure if having the purge, and the arming switch keyed on by the cigarette lighter will draw too much current to the lighter and blow a fuse.

 

Mine is fine, I also trigger the relay for the heater from there. And I'm soon going to add the line lock and see how that works. The lighter draws quite a bit of juice.

 

Awesome, glad I won't have any problems. Thanks guys!

FWIW: I did the test w/o nitrous in the lines, and I wanted to see if the solenoids clicked open. I set the window switch to 2k RPM's to activate. When the solenoids clicked open, the car bogged down.

 

One more quick question...Can I use a relay such as my AIR pump relay that I had taken out when I had the AIR system deleted? I know it's not a bracket mount type, but could I use that, and just strap it down somewhere?

 

An easy way to check the system is to turn off the bottle & purge the line. Then disconnect and cap the fuel line to the fuel solenoid, and securley cap the fuel rail or where ever you are taking your fuel supply for the solenoid.

Take a wire and temporarily hook it to the point where the relay wire feeds the solenoids. Hook the wire to any 12v light bulb you can pick up at radio shack or the auto store. Hook the other bulb wire to ground. Tape the bulb to your wind shield or put it some where in the car where it is easy to see when you are driving.

Take the car out and arm the system. Floor it below your window switch turn on RPM. When it gets to the turn on rpm the light should come on and it should go off when you hit the turn off rpm and when you lift off the throttle.

If the light does not go on and go off when it is supposed to you have a problem to fix before you spray. If you have a FPSS you will need to put a jumper wire on the terminals or hook both wires together for your test. This way you can safely test the system before you try to use it.

I liked this so well that I put a small LED in my pillar pod next to my nitrous guage. If I ever have a problem I will instantly know if the solenoids are getting power or not.

 

Man you guys need better transmission guys!

Spraying 200 through the shifts!

 

i got power for my purge through the radio. its easy to do if your worried about blowing the cig. lighter fuse.