Going to need some help on 2 Stage DRY
So here my other questions:
Fuel System:
42lb injectors,Walbro intanke,hotwire kit?
Nozzle Location:
One in Neck for A/F/ and one in the side of the lid for the first stage asit is now.And 1 in the other side of the lid for the 2 stage
Spark Plugs:
Tr6's or would i need colder
Plan on running Dyno Tunes 2 stage window switch for stage controls
RPM Activation:
1 stage 3200-6300
2 stage ****-6300 maybe 4500-6300 and will be on a first gear lock out?
This what i can think right now.Car is Hot Cam,Header,M6 Car makes 352/365 on the motor on the Dyno
O P.S. For you guys running 2 tage what kinda improvements in E.T. adding a 2nd stage on to of you first?
Thanks Guys
BTLFEDSS
Last edited by BTLFEDSS; Sep 5, 2006 at 08:11 PM.
Fuel system, I have been running a 210+shot, Walbro Intank ($100) with a hotwire kit ($70), 42lbs Lightning Take-off injectors (bought for $10ea) and then tuned (free since I do my own).
Nozzle location...see my sig pic. Standard NOS 5177 plumbed into the sides of the lid (Stage1) and then a center mounted single inlet/dual side discharge brass fitting (Stage2). Remove the Air Filter when spraying to avoid freezing the damn thing!
TR6 Gapped at .030-.033", check and adjust as needed.
WS are for wussies
j/k. If you could step up to a 2Step, then you could wire it in to the WS and Nitrous, preset launch RPM, and then go from there. I think this would help you dial in your best ET's as well since you can progressively step the Launch RPM depending on track conditions vs. traction vs. shot size etc... BTLFEDSS
Last edited by BTLFEDSS; Sep 5, 2006 at 10:40 PM.
What kind of nozzles, ie: 90*, 70*, 45* straight?
I say stick with nozzles as you can adjust your a/f this way without affecting n/a tune. Other non nozzle methods have no way to adjust a/f without going into pcm. Close is good, far away is bad.
What do you mean you froze your maf? you mean the screen? I have 4 nozzles within 3inches of maf and dose not freeze MAF (3-straights and 1 90*). get rid of the screen.
I'll have more input once Iknow the answers above.
If you lock out 1st gear and come in like you said, a small shot can knock a 1/2 second off et and increase your mph quite a bit.
What is the shot in each stage? not sure I could follow above.
Robert
BTLFEDSS
So here my other questions:
Fuel System:
42lb injectors,Walbro intanke,hotwire kit?
Should be good to go. I run svo 42's, Ractronics pump and hot wire.
Nozzle Location:
One in Neck for A/F/ and one in the side of the lid for the first stage asit is now.And 1 in the other side of the lid for the 2 stage
This should work ok, as the 70* nozzle will be your prime a/f controler, just make sure a/f is good with both stages going. I have mine similar and it works great. Cat's set-up is somewhat similar also.
Spark Plugs:
Tr6's or would i need colder
Should be fine, I run em also. Mine are gapped at .035.
Plan on running Dyno Tunes 2 stage window switch for stage controls
RPM Activation:
1 stage 3200-6300
2 stage ****-6300 maybe 4500-6300 and will be on a first gear lock out?
I have my 2nd stage coming on right at my torque peak, that way you'll carry a higher average torque much longer through out run and you'll win more races compared to the all in one shot torque spike hits off the line.
This what i can think right now.Car is Hot Cam,Header,M6 Car makes 352/365 on the motor on the Dyno
O P.S. For you guys running 2 tage what kinda improvements in E.T. adding a 2nd stage on to of you first?
It really depends, on each set-up, but tou surely will be faster and quicker.
Thanks Guys
BTLFEDSS
Robert

